Ive been looking into getting a meth kit. I was wondering what the difference was between a standard meth kit and a progressive. What are the benefits of having a progressive controller. I understand the concept of how it starts spraying at a certain psi< just the progressive part. Also, who has the best kit as far as performance and price.

 

if you decide you want one i have a brand new ais stage 2 progessive kit with the 3 gallon tank and stainless lines for sale...direct port nozzles too but you dont have to use them. let me know.

 

Progressives are probably going to be better for the ol turbo balts. Here is why.

The non progressive kits use a boost switch to turn on the pump and spray the meth. It is a constant amount. And it turns off when you go below the set boost. The progressive kits will use MAF or MAP (depending on the car) readings. The use of the sensor readings allows the pump to raise nozzle pressure due to increased boost. The more airflow the MAF reads the more boost you are making and the kit injects more and more meth. The progressive kits are usually more expensive but if max performance is your goal that is the route you should take. The rule of thumb is you need at least 35PSI (If I remember correctly) more pressure in the pump/nozzle configuration in order to properly atomize the meth in the intake air. Example: if you are running 20psi of boost you need a minimum 55psi pump/nozzle combo. The smaller the nozzle the higher injection pressure and the better atomization. Many people have different thoughts about what type of nozzle to use. I am a believer of more smaller nozzles at higher pressure for better atomization. But that is just my opinion. Hope I didn't cover stuff you already knew or confuse you at all.

A progressive is better. The progressive benefit is more accurate methanol/water injection. I run a snow performance meth/water kit on my 6.5 turbo diesel suburban. They have very good stuff. Also check out devil's own they are very god too. Good luck and stay cool haha.

 

yup, progressive kits are better.

I have an AEM kit for more than 2 yrs now.....and it never failed.....

other good brands are devils own, cooling mist, snow performance, etc....

 

the ais stuff is very good aswell but they are out of the cobalt market...i bought one of the last kits....decided to go with alternative fueling and no longer need it

 

progressives are the way to go, but they arent anywhere near perfect yet. When using meth injection, your octane rating will fluctuate wildly depending on the amount of meth your spraying in relation to fuel. Progressive systems help maintain a more stable mix throughout the powerband.

 

actually, the fluctuation will not be that big.

guy from Devil's own stated this:


It depends on how much your injecting. but the actually octane increase is very minor.

All my competitors run around saying it boost the octane to x octant etc. I sat down and did the math..



if your injecting 10% of your fuel and 1/2 of its water 116/93 5/95 Now a properly setup system is usually going to evaporate 1/2 of the water/ methanol mixture before it hits the cylinders. So as you can see there really is not much octane increase.

 

If you're getting a progressive controller, get a REAL failsafe too. Labonte, AEM, Aquamist are all respectable. Don't even think about doing it unless you're monitoring flow near the nozzle and tank levels. There are a lot of people that put it on and don't tune properly for it, or do not monitor how much the system flows at certain times.

I don't like the idea of running WI on this car anyways, because the ECU wants full control of fueling at all times, and does not go into open loop under normal WOT conditions. Quite frankly, I'm not sure how people are tuning the car to get consistent A/F ratios, especially in the transitional areas, but maybe BYT, ZZP, or T2 can chime in here. I haven't tried it on the LNF, but from looking at how the ECU works, it seems like it would be a pain.

 

I agree, its all dependant on how much your injecting. were both on the same page there. But i don't see where in the devil's own post he has a formula, that looks a lot more like conjecture and assumption. The techs dealt with absolutes and formulas to determine the resulting octane ratings. But they like to be a lot more precise when it comes to that stuff than I, I just drive, i do remember them scrapping that project though.

Also agree with wangspeed, make sure you have failsafes in place and fluid level indicator.

 

I run a progressive controlled snow performance system with failsafe and tank indicator. The fail safe works well, it cuts out some boost, but does set a check engine light...

Honest assessment, w/m injection untuned may actually REDUCE your horsepower.

Tuned you can probably squeek 25-40hp from a large nozzle with supporting mods. LESS on a car with a larger intercooler.

 

I place 2 small LED lights by my dash.

Green LED lights up, everytime the system is spraying.

Red LED lights up, if there's something wrong with the system or not spraying when it should be spraying (blocked nozzle/etc).

 

Flow monitor, or bust. It should have a min/max setting so that it alerts you when it's +-25% beyond the max for the nozzle size at your max pump pressure.