modification order
to be honest you won't gain much from switching to metal charge piping on a stock car. THis mod is more of a support mod, such as for a turbo upgrade or turbo swap. It's all about flow and pressure. With more pressure and flow you need something to hold up and be stronger than plastic. Hell there is a guy on here that said his stock piping shattered. lol not good
Make a 1 piece design and you might have something, anyone can weld tubes together (or clamp) If you have a mandrel bender you should be able to do this? So lets get it done.
to be honest you won't gain much from switching to metal charge piping on a stock car. THis mod is more of a support mod, such as for a turbo upgrade or turbo swap. It's all about flow and pressure. With more pressure and flow you need something to hold up and be stronger than plastic. Hell there is a guy on here that said his stock piping shattered. lol not good
That is why 1 part would be better.... (not welded either)
Last edited by CobaltSSRacer1980; Jan 2, 2009 at 11:41 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
that is very true they do have one weld on the hot side piping. Does it restrict that much airflow? no probably not. It's just a matter of preference. $335 for dejon or $500 for synapse. Is maybe 1 hp that your going to get from synapse over dejon worth $165? And i mean that seriously because to some people it is. to me it is not but like i said it's all about preference
I guess I bought a $20K+ car, I dont want it looking like a junk pile, just to save $165. Dejon looks "home made" well most likely because it is.... If you want to save go to summitracing and buy some tubes and weld them up, that is what dejon does, and then he sticks $200+ in his back pocket and laughs to the bank...
To have a 1 piece design you would need a mandrel bender, which he obviously does not have. That is why the price is a bit more, it is called quality of work.
To have a 1 piece design you would need a mandrel bender, which he obviously does not have. That is why the price is a bit more, it is called quality of work.
ok i tried being nice but now i am going to call you out. HEre is the website idiot. http://www.synapseturbo.com/mm5/merc...e=intercoolers
Look oh wait there are weld on that one too. I count 5 weld. Well now that would be restrictive wouldn;t it. Oh and it;s 3 pipe so it is not 1 piece. Please do research before you look stupid.
Look oh wait there are weld on that one too. I count 5 weld. Well now that would be restrictive wouldn;t it. Oh and it;s 3 pipe so it is not 1 piece. Please do research before you look stupid.
Oh boy... I step away for one night and you guys just can't seem to play nice.... 
Ok, so I have read what you guys have been posting and some things have caught my attention.
1.) Is Dejon aluminum or aluminized? There website says aluminum tubing so I feel 'aluminized' is a misrepresentation of what I would expect to get
2.) I agree that this modification will only give minor gains, but part of the reason for these mods is performance and sound...and I want to get a reliable part. In my opinion anything aftermarket is better/more reliable than what is on there now... so I still intend to modify this component
3.) I have sent pm's to several vendors inquiring as to their parts so I haven't narrowed it down to supporting one vendor here. Quality and price are both important here!
4.) When it comes to the number of joints/pieces on a kit, I look at each individual component as a possible failure point. I actually do know a thing or two about fluid flow through a pipe, friction loss, etc... In this case you can treat the air as a 'fluid' if you will. Here the number of bends will contribute to friction loss...but unless you have a significant amount of bends over the competition, your loss will be negligible. Your welds can be treated the same way here. I seriously doubt that the designs I have seen from each vendor differ to the point that I need to consider the design of the piping...instead material, quality of construction, and reliability are my focus.
So hopefully this will bring the thread back on track. I didn't necessarily want to focus on charge piping alone...I wanted input on the other mods and order as well (especially in relation to the tune) so that myself and others will have a better plan of action for the road ahead... Any other comments?

Ok, so I have read what you guys have been posting and some things have caught my attention.
1.) Is Dejon aluminum or aluminized? There website says aluminum tubing so I feel 'aluminized' is a misrepresentation of what I would expect to get
2.) I agree that this modification will only give minor gains, but part of the reason for these mods is performance and sound...and I want to get a reliable part. In my opinion anything aftermarket is better/more reliable than what is on there now... so I still intend to modify this component
3.) I have sent pm's to several vendors inquiring as to their parts so I haven't narrowed it down to supporting one vendor here. Quality and price are both important here!
4.) When it comes to the number of joints/pieces on a kit, I look at each individual component as a possible failure point. I actually do know a thing or two about fluid flow through a pipe, friction loss, etc... In this case you can treat the air as a 'fluid' if you will. Here the number of bends will contribute to friction loss...but unless you have a significant amount of bends over the competition, your loss will be negligible. Your welds can be treated the same way here. I seriously doubt that the designs I have seen from each vendor differ to the point that I need to consider the design of the piping...instead material, quality of construction, and reliability are my focus.
So hopefully this will bring the thread back on track. I didn't necessarily want to focus on charge piping alone...I wanted input on the other mods and order as well (especially in relation to the tune) so that myself and others will have a better plan of action for the road ahead... Any other comments?
one of your first mods should be a dp also. I believe you touched on it and said you are like me and have emissions testing
it sucks i know. But anyway obviously a dp without a cat would be the best but like i said we have emissions testing, so you can do one of two things. 1) get a synapse uncatted dp and change back to the factory one when emissions testing comes around or 2) wait for the hahn catted dp. i have to tell you though if the hahn dp is over $400 then i am just going with synapse and change is back every few years for emissions testing. $400 for a small metal tube is just ridiculous
oh and someone told me the GM stage kit will definitely come with an intake because GM sees the intake as the most restrictive part on the car. Granted it will probably be a short ram intake though
oh and someone told me the GM stage kit will definitely come with an intake because GM sees the intake as the most restrictive part on the car. Granted it will probably be a short ram intake though
Last edited by kling1022; Jan 2, 2009 at 12:51 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Dejon is just that a bunch of tubing hacked together. Only reason you support it and push it, is because you are "dejon"
Make a 1 piece design and you might have something, anyone can weld tubes together (or clamp) If you have a mandrel bender you should be able to do this? So lets get it done.
Exactly, 100% agree. However when you weld tubes together you get turbulance in the pipes, and that is restriction = Dejon
That is why 1 part would be better.... (not welded either)
Make a 1 piece design and you might have something, anyone can weld tubes together (or clamp) If you have a mandrel bender you should be able to do this? So lets get it done.
Exactly, 100% agree. However when you weld tubes together you get turbulance in the pipes, and that is restriction = Dejon
That is why 1 part would be better.... (not welded either)
Aluminum is liquified and sprayed onto steel to protect it. This is what "aluminized" steel tubing is. Aluminum actually holds up extremely well to heat. Keep things under 1,000 degrees and there are no issues. Aluminum oxidizes at 1310 degrees Farenheit.
As far as what should be used for the boost tubing, considering the fact that the air within the "hot pipe" is only there for a split second, the type of material used really doesn't matter. When the engine is running, air is continuously passing through the tube. To be really technical, thermal dispersant coated aluminum for the hot side and ceramic coated stainless steel for the cold side would be the best.
Since you specifically mentioned the welds, bends, design, etc, you should take a look at our routing. As you said, fluid flow is very similar to air flow. Point A to point B is always the best route when possible.
Here's a couple pictures of our design:


Over-all our tubing kit will perform better than any other because:
There are no splice welds like others.
Uses less silicone couplers & clamps than any other.
The degree of bends used are much less and not harsh like others.
Is 10 inches shorter than any other.
As far as what should be used for the boost tubing, considering the fact that the air within the "hot pipe" is only there for a split second, the type of material used really doesn't matter. When the engine is running, air is continuously passing through the tube. To be really technical, thermal dispersant coated aluminum for the hot side and ceramic coated stainless steel for the cold side would be the best.
4.) When it comes to the number of joints/pieces on a kit, I look at each individual component as a possible failure point. I actually do know a thing or two about fluid flow through a pipe, friction loss, etc... In this case you can treat the air as a 'fluid' if you will. Here the number of bends will contribute to friction loss...but unless you have a significant amount of bends over the competition, your loss will be negligible. Your welds can be treated the same way here. I seriously doubt that the designs I have seen from each vendor differ to the point that I need to consider the design of the piping...instead material, quality of construction, and reliability are my focus.
Any other comments?
Any other comments?
Here's a couple pictures of our design:
Over-all our tubing kit will perform better than any other because:
There are no splice welds like others.
Uses less silicone couplers & clamps than any other.
The degree of bends used are much less and not harsh like others.
Is 10 inches shorter than any other.
I had posted a GP here:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/supporting-vendor-deals-group-purchases-133/clear-image-automotive-ss-tc-boost-tubing-kit-gp-146629/
But I am actually working on new, lower prices.
I was working in the shop most of the day bending. I'll have it figured out this weekend.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/supporting-vendor-deals-group-purchases-133/clear-image-automotive-ss-tc-boost-tubing-kit-gp-146629/
But I am actually working on new, lower prices.
I was working in the shop most of the day bending. I'll have it figured out this weekend.
I'll see what I can do.
Also, the term "nickel steel" keeps coming up on this forum. Where are you guys getting this term from? There is some serious mis-information going around. There is either carbon steel or stainless steel. Stainless steel, at least 300 grade, is made with nickel, is not magnetic and does not rust. It has superior insulating properties to carbon steel and can be mirror polished. Carbon steel can be mirror polished, is magnetic, will rust. There is also 400 grade stainless steel which contains just about enough nickel to call it stainless, but it is still made up of mostly carbon steel. It can be mirror polished, is magnetic and will rust. So to help clear things up, here are the materials manufacturers have available to them and the typical term used to refer to each:
aluminized steel = aluminum coated carbon steel
carbon steel = steel, mild steel
stainless steel = usually 400 grade but is able to be marketed as "stainless"
aircraft quality stainless = 300 grade or better alloy
aluminum = usually T1, T2, T3, T6
titanium
inconel
I hope this info helps to clarify the differences.
Also, the term "nickel steel" keeps coming up on this forum. Where are you guys getting this term from? There is some serious mis-information going around. There is either carbon steel or stainless steel. Stainless steel, at least 300 grade, is made with nickel, is not magnetic and does not rust. It has superior insulating properties to carbon steel and can be mirror polished. Carbon steel can be mirror polished, is magnetic, will rust. There is also 400 grade stainless steel which contains just about enough nickel to call it stainless, but it is still made up of mostly carbon steel. It can be mirror polished, is magnetic and will rust. So to help clear things up, here are the materials manufacturers have available to them and the typical term used to refer to each:
aluminized steel = aluminum coated carbon steel
carbon steel = steel, mild steel
stainless steel = usually 400 grade but is able to be marketed as "stainless"
aircraft quality stainless = 300 grade or better alloy
aluminum = usually T1, T2, T3, T6
titanium
inconel
I hope this info helps to clarify the differences.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...=146629&page=3
Hmmm...Never heard of that before. Well Synapse IC is definitely out then! I want true bolt-ons. I don't feel comfortable with hacking on my car to make something work....
I just ordered all hahn products for my car. Charge piping, cool ram intake, and exhaust. i didnt get the bigger intercooler cuz theres just no point untill i get a bigger turbo kit on it. im awaiting the availability of the hahn catless downpipe tho and then ill be set! i was also stuck between Hahn and Synapse. but i wanted to go with 1 brand for everything. and Hahn had the most parts available.
I just ordered all hahn products for my car. Charge piping, cool ram intake, and exhaust. i didnt get the bigger intercooler cuz theres just no point untill i get a bigger turbo kit on it. im awaiting the availability of the hahn catless downpipe tho and then ill be set! i was also stuck between Hahn and Synapse. but i wanted to go with 1 brand for everything. and Hahn had the most parts available.


