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Hello guys, I recently purchased a 2010 cobalt ss and had a piece of piston number 2 break off 2k later. I am having a real hard time finding a lnf with low km for a reasonable price. I am able to find the LHU much easier. I have tried searching on the swaps to get an idea for parts but have not found a complete list of what has to be done.
So far I understand that I will need a block of plate, need to swap my intake manifold and tb, use my turbo (i think), and use my fuel injectors from my lnf.
I will want them to put it back to stock tuning or gms1. I dont know what was done to the car. It does have a catted downpipe from zzp and their intake pipes. I have removed the cold air intake as it failed as well. If i cannot find a reasonable junkyard motor I will be making my way down to zzp for the ldk. If they were closer I would just do that option to begin with.
Please let me know if there is anything else I need to swap.
I am looking at a 2013 buick verano lhu engine hoping that I can make that work.
Yah unfortunately it's only free for the US, it's 400 USD to get it to me in Canada. If i had a truck it wouldn't be so bad to rent a small car trailer to tow it down. Will the verano engine work?
There is a (new to me) rumor that the reluctor wheel is different on the LHU. I know someone on here has used a Buick LHU in their car, so you may want to find them and try to ask. Worst case you can swap the crank and you'll have 0 problems.
Yah unfortunately it's only free for the US, it's 400 USD to get it to me in Canada. If i had a truck it wouldn't be so bad to rent a small car trailer to tow it down. Will the verano engine work?
Send it to a parcel place at the boarder. Free shipping . go pick it up if u live close to boarder
I still might but was hoping to get out of this car, if I drop 5 grand I need to keep it for awhile. Can anyone tell me if the reluctor wheel needs to be changed, that would kill the idea of buying the lhu for me as that is beyond my ability. I am not worried about fabricating the block of plate for the pump and switching the manifold and fuel injectors.
I still might but was hoping to get out of this car, if I drop 5 grand I need to keep it for awhile. Can anyone tell me if the reluctor wheel needs to be changed, that would kill the idea of buying the lhu for me as that is beyond my ability. I am not worried about fabricating the block of plate for the pump and switching the manifold and fuel injectors.
How much cheaper is it?
The LDK swap is common and well documented. Your initial savings might be blown by trying to make it work.
The LHU and LDK seem to be the same from what I can find. On car-part the difference is around 700-800 for an LHU vs LNF.
From what I have found thus far:
Engine mounts from LNF need to be used
Manifold from LNF
Block off plate
Exhaust manifold LNF
Change belt and tensioner and remove ps pump
Fuel Rail and injectors from LNF
PCV lines need to be adjusted as LHU valve cover is different
6 quarts instead of 5
You should have no problem using LNF PVC lines. If you're changing the tensioner, get an LHU tensioner. The square hole for the tensioner tool is rotated correctly on the LHU and is a PITA on the LNF.
I'm not sure why the reluctor wheel rumor got started but no one has had any problems that I can see with the LHU wheel.
I appreciate the response, so you think I can just use the lhu tensioner with the lnf belt and remove the ps pump?
I know you can. You may need to use the LNF alternator (don't know for sure, mine didn't have an alternator so I reused my LNF). That would only depend on the direction it spins (LSJ is reverse of LNF, don't know for LHU). Use an LNF belt. You will have an extra rib on the crank pulley. Use the ribs closest to the engine.
So i ended up getting a used lnf motor and GM put it in and took me to the cleaners. I have a couple of questions for those in the know. Motor install ended up being 1700, from an 879 quote...
A. Is the intermediate steering shaft supposed to compress? Mine looks like it was damaged by someone taking a punch to it. That was an unexpected 180.
B. Is anyone able to look over my logs to see if this thing is safe to drive?
If I should change which sensors I am logging please let me know. I have not pushed it as I am not sure it was the tune that did in the previous motor.
Here is a run. Not WOT, but I think with more useful sensors. This was around 80% throttle I believe. I have since changed the one turbo sensor for engine rpm.
So I have looked over the ltft and the stft and the short term fuel bank has a minimum of -17.188 and a max of 9.375. This to me seems like the fuel trims are way off as it should not go beyond +- 10%. The ltft has a minimum of -4.688 and a maximum of -2.344. Do you think this could be from the maf location?
Can anyone tell me why the afr is so much higher at the 9.375 stft. I dont understand why it is above 16 when it is commanded to be in the 14s?
Heres is piston 2. I am thinking this is fudged but let me know what you guys think. The part of the piston looks like it melted on the side. There felt like a slight indentation.
The motor also had arp studs for the head and arp bolts for the bearing caps. I'll have to send a picture when I get the right socket for the bottom to get the piston out.
