New to the Cobalt Family – Please bring me up to speed on a few things?
01-10-2011, 09:29 AM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 09-28-09
Location: .
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
New to the Cobalt Family – Please bring me up to speed on a few things?
Good morning everyone! I already posted a couple of times in the general Cobalt Forum but I wanted to get answers to a few engine questions. I am not a noob to performance mods as I previously had a 300+whp GTI (before I got into an accident, and no I wasn’t messing around, someone stopped short creating a chain reaction.) I am just not familiar with this new engine. So here it goes...
What is the weakest link in our motors? For example, in my GTI, the rods were the weakest link. After ~280+wtq they bent like straws.
According to the manual, the timing belt should be replaced at 150k?! For an example, VW said replace at 100k and there were tons of guys that ran into issues at 75k or even earlier. We ended up doing a timing belt kits every 60k just to make sure. Is there a similar issue with the Cobalts as well?
The manual says to run 5w30 and replace every 3k miles. I was thinking of running Mobile 1 Full Synthetic 5w30 and changing every 5k miles. What do you guys recommend? On the GTI I ran Mobile 1 Full Synthetic 10w40 and replaced it every 5k miles. Car had 141k on it with no issues.
I am sure I will think of more things. Thanks again for the help, I really appreciate it!
David
What is the weakest link in our motors? For example, in my GTI, the rods were the weakest link. After ~280+wtq they bent like straws.
According to the manual, the timing belt should be replaced at 150k?! For an example, VW said replace at 100k and there were tons of guys that ran into issues at 75k or even earlier. We ended up doing a timing belt kits every 60k just to make sure. Is there a similar issue with the Cobalts as well?
The manual says to run 5w30 and replace every 3k miles. I was thinking of running Mobile 1 Full Synthetic 5w30 and changing every 5k miles. What do you guys recommend? On the GTI I ran Mobile 1 Full Synthetic 10w40 and replaced it every 5k miles. Car had 141k on it with no issues.
I am sure I will think of more things. Thanks again for the help, I really appreciate it!
David
you can't go wrong
01-10-2011, 10:46 AM
#5
5w30 mobile works. my car hasnt died yet.
Weakest link would be the clutch after a tune, lol. Seriously though the engine/ transmission is pretty solid. Check out the vendor ZZP. They made a turbo kit with out modifying the internals that produced up to 500whp @20psi on a s252.. There kit is set to 425whp but it is capable of more. They noticed the rods start slightly bend at the 500whp mark. They judged that 425whp would work fine without having to replace any internals.
For me, the biggest issue right now is this dying battery thing, wth!!!
Weakest link would be the clutch after a tune, lol. Seriously though the engine/ transmission is pretty solid. Check out the vendor ZZP. They made a turbo kit with out modifying the internals that produced up to 500whp @20psi on a s252.. There kit is set to 425whp but it is capable of more. They noticed the rods start slightly bend at the 500whp mark. They judged that 425whp would work fine without having to replace any internals.
For me, the biggest issue right now is this dying battery thing, wth!!!
01-10-2011, 10:48 AM
#7
Member
Join Date: 08-25-09
Location: North East Houston
Posts: 291
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Stock I dont think anyone has enough miles to run in to any problems yet. modded the pistons are usually the first thing that go several people have cracked the ringlands with the added boost other than that they pretty much take what you throw at them
01-10-2011, 11:37 AM
#9
Remove the condensation bar on the bottom of the intercooler, and fill the holes with epoxy. Check the slide pin on the rear calipers once every few months. They'll likely need to be cleaned and greased.
That's pretty much it for the normal nuisances. Since you have an 09, you probably already have the charge pipe recall done. If you have the recall done, and you don't hit the bottom of your intercooler, your charge pipes should not break or come loose.
5W-30 is fine. That's what I use even on track. Make sure it is the proper rating though, otherwise you can get extra buildup on the back of your intake valves. RP is not GM4718M rated. It might be harder and harder to find GM4718M on the bottle, so do your research, and check the list of oils that used to be on the list. GM4718M is getting replaced by dexos1, which is an easier spec to pass. If you stick with 5W-30 M1 or Pennzoil Ultra/Platinum, you're all set.
Don't get an aftermarket tune unless you're willing to log and monitor. Just get the GMS1 and be happy. Don't screw with your intake unless you get a custom tune. This motor and clutch is very stout. I run session after session on track for 30 minutes at a time, and I have to do nothing. Hardly even burns oil.
That's pretty much it for the normal nuisances. Since you have an 09, you probably already have the charge pipe recall done. If you have the recall done, and you don't hit the bottom of your intercooler, your charge pipes should not break or come loose.
5W-30 is fine. That's what I use even on track. Make sure it is the proper rating though, otherwise you can get extra buildup on the back of your intake valves. RP is not GM4718M rated. It might be harder and harder to find GM4718M on the bottle, so do your research, and check the list of oils that used to be on the list. GM4718M is getting replaced by dexos1, which is an easier spec to pass. If you stick with 5W-30 M1 or Pennzoil Ultra/Platinum, you're all set.
Don't get an aftermarket tune unless you're willing to log and monitor. Just get the GMS1 and be happy. Don't screw with your intake unless you get a custom tune. This motor and clutch is very stout. I run session after session on track for 30 minutes at a time, and I have to do nothing. Hardly even burns oil.
01-10-2011, 11:45 AM
#10
Remove the condensation bar on the bottom of the intercooler, and fill the holes with epoxy. Check the slide pin on the rear calipers once every few months. They'll likely need to be cleaned and greased.
That's pretty much it for the normal nuisances. Since you have an 09, you probably already have the charge pipe recall done. If you have the recall done, and you don't hit the bottom of your intercooler, your charge pipes should not break or come loose.
5W-30 is fine. That's what I use even on track. Make sure it is the proper rating though, otherwise you can get extra buildup on the back of your intake valves. RP is not GM4718M rated. It might be harder and harder to find GM4718M on the bottle, so do your research, and check the list of oils that used to be on the list. GM4718M is getting replaced by dexos1, which is an easier spec to pass. If you stick with 5W-30 M1 or Pennzoil Ultra/Platinum, you're all set.
Don't get an aftermarket tune unless you're willing to log and monitor. Just get the GMS1 and be happy. Don't screw with your intake unless you get a custom tune. This motor and clutch is very stout. I run session after session on track for 30 minutes at a time, and I have to do nothing. Hardly even burns oil.
That's pretty much it for the normal nuisances. Since you have an 09, you probably already have the charge pipe recall done. If you have the recall done, and you don't hit the bottom of your intercooler, your charge pipes should not break or come loose.
5W-30 is fine. That's what I use even on track. Make sure it is the proper rating though, otherwise you can get extra buildup on the back of your intake valves. RP is not GM4718M rated. It might be harder and harder to find GM4718M on the bottle, so do your research, and check the list of oils that used to be on the list. GM4718M is getting replaced by dexos1, which is an easier spec to pass. If you stick with 5W-30 M1 or Pennzoil Ultra/Platinum, you're all set.
Don't get an aftermarket tune unless you're willing to log and monitor. Just get the GMS1 and be happy. Don't screw with your intake unless you get a custom tune. This motor and clutch is very stout. I run session after session on track for 30 minutes at a time, and I have to do nothing. Hardly even burns oil.
01-10-2011, 11:45 AM
#11
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 09-28-09
Location: .
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you everyone for the heads up. I bought the extended warranty so the GMS1 is what I was looking at. From what I am reading it seems to save myself some headaches I should just get the GMS1 and call it a day. Thanks again.
Also what is the weight of the Cobalt? It "feels" much heavier than my GTI. The GTI with all my crap in it, me in the car and full tank of gas weighed in at ~3040lbs. I checked the sticker on the door and if I read it correctly it said it was 34xxlbs. That seems kinda heavy. I dont have the new registration sticker yet so I cant check that.
Also what is the weight of the Cobalt? It "feels" much heavier than my GTI. The GTI with all my crap in it, me in the car and full tank of gas weighed in at ~3040lbs. I checked the sticker on the door and if I read it correctly it said it was 34xxlbs. That seems kinda heavy. I dont have the new registration sticker yet so I cant check that.
01-10-2011, 12:18 PM
#12
Hello David!
I think this is a good reply.
Stage1 puts you to 320tq - so that problem isn't present...
Mechanically speaking I too have really only heard about clutch issues - with aftermarket tunes.
I would offer you a note of caution though;
I read time and again of transmission issues, which seem to often stem from people doing no lift shifts from first to second with aftermarket tunes... so it might be a good idea to keep that in mind.
I don't know where you read that - then again I didn't read the 2.2L section of my owners manual.
Mobil1 5w30 is the OE oil, and synthetic is required to be used, otherwise you pretty much give up your mechanical warranty (or at least I have understood this to be the case with any GM car which uses synthetic from the factory)...
Regarding intervals, the official GM stance is that as long as you pay attention to the oil life monitor, you're good;
As I've understood it, synthetic is typically still good well past 5k miles, but it's the amount of particulate that the filter cannot remove which is the issue.
I was instructed (I do my own oil changes ect.) to record the mileage, as well as the oil life percentage at the time when I do my oil changes.
I have talked to other locals who really push it and wait for the oil life to be wayyyy down (like 10%) - but as it was described to me (not that I'd ever push it that far) as long as you change it when the DIC says it needs to be changed, you're ok as far as warranty is concerned.
I typically shoot for around 3k miles (or 5k kilometers)...
Although that's not a weak link in the motor, that is a good point to bring up;
And I wouldn't call it a complete fail...
I know I've read of people here complaining, and wanting a recall of some sort done about it...
I personally before 1,000 miles did remove the rear sliders to find them bare, so I lubed them up, and haven't had an issue...
What is the weakest link in our motors? For example, in my GTI, the rods were the weakest link. After ~280+wtq they bent like straws.
Stage1 puts you to 320tq - so that problem isn't present...
Mechanically speaking I too have really only heard about clutch issues - with aftermarket tunes.
I would offer you a note of caution though;
I read time and again of transmission issues, which seem to often stem from people doing no lift shifts from first to second with aftermarket tunes... so it might be a good idea to keep that in mind.
...
The manual says to run 5w30 and replace every 3k miles. I was thinking of running Mobile 1 Full Synthetic 5w30 and changing every 5k miles. What do you guys recommend? On the GTI I ran Mobile 1 Full Synthetic 10w40 and replaced it every 5k miles. Car had 141k on it with no issues.
The manual says to run 5w30 and replace every 3k miles. I was thinking of running Mobile 1 Full Synthetic 5w30 and changing every 5k miles. What do you guys recommend? On the GTI I ran Mobile 1 Full Synthetic 10w40 and replaced it every 5k miles. Car had 141k on it with no issues.
Mobil1 5w30 is the OE oil, and synthetic is required to be used, otherwise you pretty much give up your mechanical warranty (or at least I have understood this to be the case with any GM car which uses synthetic from the factory)...
Regarding intervals, the official GM stance is that as long as you pay attention to the oil life monitor, you're good;
As I've understood it, synthetic is typically still good well past 5k miles, but it's the amount of particulate that the filter cannot remove which is the issue.
I was instructed (I do my own oil changes ect.) to record the mileage, as well as the oil life percentage at the time when I do my oil changes.
I have talked to other locals who really push it and wait for the oil life to be wayyyy down (like 10%) - but as it was described to me (not that I'd ever push it that far) as long as you change it when the DIC says it needs to be changed, you're ok as far as warranty is concerned.
I typically shoot for around 3k miles (or 5k kilometers)...
... Check the slide pin on the rear calipers once every few months. They'll likely need to be cleaned and greased....
And I wouldn't call it a complete fail...
I know I've read of people here complaining, and wanting a recall of some sort done about it...
I personally before 1,000 miles did remove the rear sliders to find them bare, so I lubed them up, and haven't had an issue...
01-10-2011, 12:22 PM
#13
Premium Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: 08-21-06
Location: Western NY
Posts: 6,574
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I weighed my car this summer with 1/4 tank of gas and it was 2880 without me in it . If staying with GM stage 1 ... you really won't run into any real issues with a weak link .... it's not pushing it hard enough to hurt it. Just dont over rev it on a downshift ..... the valvetrain hates hi rev's ...7k and over.
01-10-2011, 12:30 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: 07-23-10
Location: Carlsbad, CA
Posts: 3,451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Weak point would definitely be the clutch and trans. Well if you want to push it over 400 lbs of torque that is. It's a bad ass motor set up and responds really good to tuning. Lube the rear brake caliper slides as someone else stated above and you are good.
01-10-2011, 12:43 PM
#15
Thank you everyone for the heads up. I bought the extended warranty so the GMS1 is what I was looking at. From what I am reading it seems to save myself some headaches I should just get the GMS1 and call it a day. Thanks again.
Also what is the weight of the Cobalt? It "feels" much heavier than my GTI. The GTI with all my crap in it, me in the car and full tank of gas weighed in at ~3040lbs. I checked the sticker on the door and if I read it correctly it said it was 34xxlbs. That seems kinda heavy. I dont have the new registration sticker yet so I cant check that.
Also what is the weight of the Cobalt? It "feels" much heavier than my GTI. The GTI with all my crap in it, me in the car and full tank of gas weighed in at ~3040lbs. I checked the sticker on the door and if I read it correctly it said it was 34xxlbs. That seems kinda heavy. I dont have the new registration sticker yet so I cant check that.
01-10-2011, 12:45 PM
#16
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 09-28-09
Location: .
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks! Thats what I thought!
01-10-2011, 01:26 PM
#18
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: 10-15-08
Location: florida
Posts: 2,637
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
if you are only getting GMS1 kit for the balt ur safe... just dont NLS from 1-2nd... if you get a custom tune, DONT go over 23psi... the turbo runs out of breath and the pistons hate it!... if your planing on big power, you would have to change the rods due to that they bend at around ~500ish whp... this is a DI motor, so be carefull with the high pressure fuel pump, not that its a problem but it sits right on top of your manifold, so be carefull when working under the hood... you rear breaks will go at around 7k miles, ITS NORMAL! lol the factory rear breaks sucks!! they have a fix but i dont know where is the thread... we have a 5x110 lug pattern (yes only GM would think of that) so there are very little rims out there for us... you have to make sure that the off-set of the rims are made to fit the brembos!
also!! if you get a front flat tire, you will HAVE fun!!! in order to put the spare on you will have to replace one of the back tires and put it on the front, and THEN you can put the spare on the back... the spare WILL NOT clear the brembo so hopefully if you run into this trouble, ur not in a hurry lol
and then you got the raddels of the car... it will vibrate a lot! get use to it cuz thats how it is lol... also u might want to change at least the HOT chargepipe, since its the most comun one to crack...
other than that enjoy the balt!!!
WELCOME!
also!! if you get a front flat tire, you will HAVE fun!!! in order to put the spare on you will have to replace one of the back tires and put it on the front, and THEN you can put the spare on the back... the spare WILL NOT clear the brembo so hopefully if you run into this trouble, ur not in a hurry lol
and then you got the raddels of the car... it will vibrate a lot! get use to it cuz thats how it is lol... also u might want to change at least the HOT chargepipe, since its the most comun one to crack...
other than that enjoy the balt!!!
WELCOME!
01-10-2011, 01:38 PM
#19
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 09-28-09
Location: .
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the additional info. I’m not sure if I am lucky or not but my car doesn’t have the spare tire option. I have an air pump and battery in the back. I was pleasantly surprised and happy to see the battery in the back.
I also just bought some 17x7 rims for the winter. I will keep the stock rims for the summer with my summer tires.
I also just bought some 17x7 rims for the winter. I will keep the stock rims for the summer with my summer tires.
01-10-2011, 01:47 PM
#20
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: 10-15-08
Location: florida
Posts: 2,637
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
make sure the rims clear the brembos... and go to the dealer to ask for the spare!... that not an option that you buy, thats a requirement...they HAVE to give u a spare...
01-10-2011, 02:04 PM
#22
or you could just occasionally break out some suitable lube for the sliders, and call it a day.
I did mine at less than 1,000 miles, I'm currently sitting at roughly 18,000 miles, and no issues/noise what so ever.
...also!! if you get a front flat tire, you will HAVE fun!!! in order to put the spare on you will have to replace one of the back tires and put it on the front, and THEN you can put the spare on the back... the spare WILL NOT clear the brembo so hopefully if you run into this trouble, ur not in a hurry lol
...
...
IMHO, it's for the best because running a donut on the front is bad for your transmission...
the inflator kit is an option.
the spare sits in the exact same spot that the inflator kit does... only one fits there.
some vehicles (Caliber SRT4 for example) do cannot get a spare, they only come with the inflator kit.
I have an '09 sitting in my garage that was one of the few inflator kit opted cars - unfortunately the inflator kit was the only part the original owner was rigid on keeping for himself...
@VWGolfA4;
if you aqquire a spare tire/jack, I'd be interested in buying your inflator kit including the styrofoam that the kit mounts in (which would have to be removed if you put a spare in there...
if you did, it would be going to this car;
Last edited by soundjunky; 01-10-2011 at 02:13 PM.
