Always had alot of good info on here when I had my LE5 but Ive come from mostly RWD V8 N/A carb'd cars... Wanted to consolidated into something fun and yet "good" for winter (FWD part that is). The computers, VVT, and forced induction are all a new to me for the most part so im learning and reading as much on here as possible. Picked up my '10 LNF about 2 months ago and love it

1. Downpipes - Ran a ZZP catted on my LE5 w/o a CEL, if I run a catless on the LNF with a defouler will I still throw a code more than likely? More importantly is it even worth buying a down pipe as this point as I dont plan on getting an aftermarket tune for about 2 years once my warranty runs out??? From what Ive read it sounds like all it will do is make the turbo spool faster???

2. Ive read it is but also it isn't, would a Trifecta tune really be hidden from a dealers scanners?

3. How much boost does a GMS1 push and is it like the stock tune where it limits it to power as opposed to a set boost point?

4. Im planning on buying the Aeroforce Interceptor gauges after Christmas, Those are plug and play correct? no splicing or wires or add-a-fuse or anything? Anyone have pics of theirs installed? especially of the green one? I just bought ZZP's dual gauge pod that also will fit my RPD, pretty excited to get this in.

5. I do plan on auto-crossing this coming year, how much of an improvement over stock feel will stainless brake lines give me? (be for a moderately experience driver)

6. How long should I expect my stock clutch to last (not a newb to sticks, had one since I was 15) while pushing full boost maybe once per day on a stock tune? Car just turned 27k miles so want to know when I should prep to replace it. Im hoping with the weekend racing I plan for the car ill get 50-75k miles but am I hoping for too much??? I also read to try not and floor it in an LNF below 3k for the clutches sake, correct???

7. Any big tips or suggestions people more familiar with turbos can give me for the car or turbo itself? This is the first turbo whip ive owned.


Thanks in advance for all the help! Always get good info here which is why CSS comes first!

 

I got a CEL with a cheaper catless downpipe, doesn't effect the cars performance - the cat warm up cycle is what becomes annoying.

My GMS1 tune hits 25 psi, tappers to 24 and holds around 23. Depends where you live and whatnot, computer controlled. I guess the aftermarket tunes "advance timing" on the same boost levels and get a lil more HP? I dont know

I only added a mechanical boost gauge to my car, the RPD is limited there.. I really wanted to see what my car actually was boosting.

Still on GMS1 until I figure out what to do for a tune (this has been going on for 2 years sigh)

 

1. Not sure since u dont plan to add a tune but it may work with gms1 for gains.

2. Trifecta cant be hidden if the dealer looks hard enough, a few other people can comment on this but if the dealer thinks u been running a tune they can find it.

3. Boost im not sure but it makes around 260ish hp to the wheels from what I seen in the dyno section.

4. Yes interceptors are plug and play but make sure u order the correct version for car. I think the turbo cars use CN series but that info should be on zzp website under the gauges.

5. no clue.

6. should last a long while on stock power level.

7. ill let turbo guys handle that.

 

Have you been fairly happy overall with your GMS1?

Ive been going back and forth about it b/c I live 5 minutes from ZZP and the day my warranty runs out my car will be dyno-tuned by them... so is it worth the money to run for only 2 years?

 

Thanks Vander Nars

I when I had my LE5 the difference was very noticable on a stock tune when I did a K&N, HFI, and DP so im really hoping its the same with the LNF but the stock tune limitations are what scare me

 

1. On the stock tune you won't see any gain, the ECU will limit the car to 260/260 hp/tq and won't go anything past that. On GMS1, you may see a slight gain with a downpipe, but not nearly its full potential. I ran a ZZP catless downpipe with the angled o2 bung option for over a month without seeing a single code.

2. There is some debate over that, it is at least probably harder to detect. The beauty is though that you could grab a free cable from some vendors right now, some have deals on. That's what I did. You'll be able to simply flash your stock tune back on with your laptop if you were to head to the dealer. Only takes a few minutes to do. Dealers aren't going to go hunting for tunes out of the blue. I've had my car to the dealer many times while tuned with bolt ons in, they never said a word. However, if there was a major issue with my engine, I would definitely take the tune off.

3. Learn down is somewhat disabled on GMS1, but it doesn't account for mods because it is a canned tune, so you won't really get a whole lot out of them. GMS1 boosts you to about 20-21 psi I believe.

4. I'm not too experienced with the gauges. As far as I know they aren't too difficult to install.

5. Again I don't AutoX, but there are many here who can help with that answer.

6. Your clutch will last as long as you drive properly. I've been 23 PSI tuned for the last 6 months and have had no negative effects. And yes, don't floor it too far below 3k RPMs, especially in 5th gear. Typical manual driving techniques like rev matching and not riding the clutch all help it last.

7. Honestly these cars aren't too hard to maintain. But frequent oil changes are even more necessary to keep that turbo healthy. I've owned my car for a year and a half with no issues from the motor at all.

 

If you live near ZZP, get them to do a wicked job tuning your car. YES! Im jelly =)

I love GMS1.. trapped 108MPH with terrible 60fts.. it loves where I live! Makes great power!

 

yep GMS1 is decent and you don't need to worry about other upgrades. it's pretty quick. i made decent gains... stock i dyno'd 221whp and 219 torque and with GMS1 i made 268whp and 291wtq.

i trap a little over 104mph as well with crappy 60ft's
it can easily get into the 13's in the 1/4 with a good driver.

as for stainless brake lines. probably helps with pedal feel and a bit of extra grab on the brakes but i don't think it's neccesary... these cars stop very well.

clutches are hit and miss. drive properly and it will last even with a decent tune.

 

I have a buddy that works at a local Chevy dealership, do you guys think his computer guy would be able to check my ECU and see if there has ever been a tune installed by the previous owner and flashed back to stock?

Only reason its not turned yet is b/c of warranty but im almost kind of hoping if they can check it out and "find something" from the previous owner... ZZP here I come! haha It is cool living by them though, great guys over there the few times I have been. I only have to take two turns from where I live to get there.

 

Seems to be the consensus I have been reading upgrades wise... and maintains factory warranty...

 

oops read my edit above haha ya it works great despite what others say.

 

^^^ got it haha

I really wish this site had an option like my Michigan Fbody site where there is a "Thanks" button...

 

1 zzp downpipe doesnt need a defouler, it doesnt throw a code, had mine on for 2 years no codes yet.

2 - best thing to do is buy the cable and tune back to stock if u see dealer

3 - gms1 pushes up to 23 psi from what iv heard dependent on weather

4 - yes aeroforce is just plug and play, u just plug it into the obd2 port

5- idk

6 - i abused my car pretty good, stock clutch was still good after 3 years.

7 - get good sticky tires if ur gonna tune

 

^ Thanks!

 

yes aftermarket tunes are detectable by GM even the trifecta stealth tune.


if he knows what he is looking for maybe. not sure if they can do it at the dealership or have the ECU sent in to have it checked for evidence of tampering.

 

If you get the angled O2 bung with your zzp catless dp you shouldn't have any problems, ran mine for about a month with it when I was on GMS1 with no codes and drove it about six hours to get tuned. When I was on GMS1 I was hitting around 20-21 psi depending on temps and what not. Also with the learndown disabled I did see a pretty significant gain after bolting on my dp, mind you not as big as when I got my custom tune but definitely very noticible. Hope this helps!

 

Learn how to do a boost leak test, if you're going to own a turbo-car. 80% of the issues we have with these cars are caused by boost leaks. See my sig for details. If you can't do a boost leak test, buy a naturally-aspirated car.

 

Thanks Killswitch and SSlobalt. Been reading up on BL tests too, I would hope if I can rebuild a 350 I can do a BL test hahaha

 

Nice write up BTW SSlobalt! You make it look easy

 

Thanks! The hard part isn't finding the leaks, it's fixing them.

 

Have fun