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As the title says, I've noticed significant oil ending up in my charge piping. Enough that when I pulled my cold side pipe off today to put it back on after it blew off today and I wiped a fair bit of oil out and that pipe has only been on for 3 weeks.
What is the more likely cause? Turbo seals or blow by? Compression was 157/129/153/155 or somewhere along there so I know one cylinder is down a but but still within spec (no less than 70% of highest cylinder according to GM).
Other than a leak down test what's some of the tests that can be done to condemn either of the two so I can fund the swap over the winter.
Well first that one cylinder that's 129 needs new rings. Second u don't have a Powell oil separator that's why its happening
It won't be getting rings. If I can confirm that that's where the oil is coming from its getting a new long block and that one's going to scrap. It's too much downtime to rebuild a motor when I don't have my own garage.
I'm also not buying Powells oil seperator. It's far to expensive of a system for a cobalt.
I'd just like to confirm it's NOT the turbo seals so I don't pull the motor and drop 1800CAD on a used LDK.
Second u don't have a Powell oil separator that's why its happening
Originally Posted by umrdyldo
If you replace your engine you will still need an oil separator or to clean your valves down the road.
So the expense is worth it for a lot of people.
^^This. Do your motor a favor and get the only oil separator that actually works for the LNF.
It may be expensive but it's definitely not overpriced. You get what you pay for.
It's hard to say whether what you're seeing is normal or excessive, as well as if it's due to blow-by or blown turbo seals. That one cylinder is noticeably low, even if it's within spec. You could at least try putting a borescope down there to see if there's any obvious damage. If you have a ring issue then getting the separator is treating the symptom rather than the cause. Agreed that whichever way you go that the separator would be a good idea (v3 would be much better than previous iterations), but I'm not going to say "get a separator. /thread." It's possible that what you're seeing is normal though. I've seen some Solstice threads that mention a lot of oil going into the turbo, you could try researching there.
My pipes were always covered in oil and my intercooler had a puddle in it until I got the separator. V2 keeps the pipes clean, v3 keeps the rest clean as well. And if ur afraid of spending 600 bucks for a v3 to keep ur motor healthy and running good on a car u are probably gonna own for awhile, then why have the car if its not worth the cost? Doesn't matter if people see it as a cheap car or even if it is, what's it worth to you? If not enough to take car of it and treat or like ur mistress, then why do u have it? Buy a civic
My pipes were always covered in oil and my intercooler had a puddle in it until I got the separator. V2 keeps the pipes clean, v3 keeps the rest clean as well. And if ur afraid of spending 600 bucks for a v3 to keep ur motor healthy and running good on a car u are probably gonna own for awhile, then why have the car if its not worth the cost? Doesn't matter if people see it as a cheap car or even if it is, what's it worth to you? If not enough to take car of it and treat or like ur mistress, then why do u have it? Buy a civic
I have the separator and never had oil in my pipes.
It won't be getting rings. If I can confirm that that's where the oil is coming from its getting a new long block and that one's going to scrap. It's too much downtime to rebuild a motor when I don't have my own garage.
I'm also not buying Powells oil seperator. It's far to expensive of a system for a cobalt.
I'd just like to confirm it's NOT the turbo seals so I don't pull the motor and drop 1800CAD on a used LDK.
Have you read into detail what their oil separator does? It's worth it...
Unfortunately...It's not $600 bucks. I was quoted $695 directly from Gloria, I was quoted by directly from John for $600 then he changed the price right after I emailed Gloria.
Unfortunately...It's not $600 bucks. I was quoted $695 directly from Gloria, I was quoted by directly from John for $600 then he changed the price right after I emailed Gloria.
Is that for the newest version that has the intake included?
Is that for the newest version that has the intake included?
It is. The version previous will solve the problem for most, only people that road race really need the new version (due to the excess oil puking out of the PCV at boost). I really need to check my valves out again it's been about 30k miles since I cleaned them.
This is V3 (minus the powdercoat and minus the 5th injector!)
Also note that the lines are not pictured; I re-used the ones from my v2 setup.
I replaced and upgraded my entire head this spring, after running Powell's v2 separator for ~3 years, and all my valves were clean. And that is WITH road racing.
I do believe that if you ask, Powell will sell you the V3 minus the intake mani if you want to tap your own. But if you do get one from him it's a brand new one and you can sell your old one for a few bucks to help the finances
It is. The version previous will solve the problem for most, only people that road race really need the new version (due to the excess oil puking out of the PCV at boost). I really need to check my valves out again it's been about 30k miles since I cleaned them.
The IM PCV would be closed during boost, you have it backwards. V3 would be better for everyone, esp those that DON'T spend tons of time in boost.
now that is reasonable... are there any threads that show the install? I can't find any
You have to already have the previous version to get that price.
For reference: v2 interrupts the VC-turbo inlet line, v3 interrupts that and additionally reroutes the IM PVC. The IM reroute is more complicated and took him a while to nail down.
09-08-2016, 03:18 PM
