optimal shift points for power?
optimal shift points for power?
Seen random points about this but I would like to get a clear idea together.
This would be with NLS and in a straight line.

please put gear and RPM , then why.
ie : 1st -6100 rpm etc...
thanks
This would be with NLS and in a straight line.

please put gear and RPM , then why.
ie : 1st -6100 rpm etc...
thanks
It's different with every mod and every different tune. I would say a safe bet would just be to shift a little over 6k. MOST LNF's power curves end around 6k, but some people's tuning keeps it going or has it end sooner.
from the looks of ur graph i'd say shifting at 5400-5600 would be ideal...right where the HP/TQ is at its peak...??? maybe?
all i know is im banging my NLS right at 6100 and im holding full boost all the way to that shift point so idk?? im still on a stock tune as well
all i know is im banging my NLS right at 6100 and im holding full boost all the way to that shift point so idk?? im still on a stock tune as well
HP and TQ always cross at 5252. It's a mathematical formula. That will never be your shift point. You want to shift 200 RPM after peak HP. 5700 RPM looks like it'd be the optimal shift point for you. But if you're drag racing, it's usually more beneficial to run 1st gear to redline.
HP and TQ always cross at 5252. It's a mathematical formula. That will never be your shift point. You want to shift 200 RPM after peak HP. 5700 RPM looks like it'd be the optimal shift point for you. But if you're drag racing, it's usually more beneficial to run 1st gear to redline.
These are guesses because I go by the feel of the car, I shift when it feels like its running out of breathe, and of course to keep the tires sticking to the ground.
Last edited by Getreadytolose; Aug 23, 2009 at 01:03 PM. Reason: added info
stock times have a lot less tq then a tuned time, the tires will spin trust me
This aside from 1st gear, its a feel thing with a fwd car
This aside from 1st gear, its a feel thing with a fwd car
Last edited by Getreadytolose; Aug 23, 2009 at 01:36 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
This is stock tuned. This dyno was made with only 800 miles on it. I have around 10k on it now and a KN filter.
question though. I NLS all the time, but have never really glanced at the boost gauge, is there a way to tell if it is correct through the rpm. I do get one heck of a puff of smoke though. LOL
So I will try each of these methods and get back here. THanks so far.
question though. I NLS all the time, but have never really glanced at the boost gauge, is there a way to tell if it is correct through the rpm. I do get one heck of a puff of smoke though. LOL
So I will try each of these methods and get back here. THanks so far.
x2...
i ran my 13.7 @ 103.37 when i would slam the NLS from 1st all the way through 3rd shifting right at 6000 and holding 3rd through the finish...i would trap high(er) 102's when i'd NLS into 4th and my times would be a touch slower as well
Theoretically speaking you want to be in whichever gear will maximize torque to the wheels. Since the torque curve is pretty flat, I'm going to guess shifting close to red line will give the best theoretical acceleration. I'm too lazy to do the math right now.
Also the real world is different. For actual acceleration you need to know your individual car and driving style.
Also the real world is different. For actual acceleration you need to know your individual car and driving style.
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