realabilty for 400-450whp balt owners!
realabilty for 400-450whp balt owners!
if my punctuality is off plse dont lynch me
im just trying to see how every one's build have went.
if any reocuring problems once turbo upgraded with bolt-ons
if soo what should i be looking to add to my budget
besides clutch
im just trying to see how every one's build have went.
if any reocuring problems once turbo upgraded with bolt-ons
if soo what should i be looking to add to my budget
besides clutch
oh boy.
with what i got from your last thread is that your car is stock and youve been having alot of problems. Now you want to jump straight to 400hp+?
First off your warranty is gonna be gone. Second your car will probably break. Third why dont you just try bolts ons and a tune first, youll be at 300hp.
with what i got from your last thread is that your car is stock and youve been having alot of problems. Now you want to jump straight to 400hp+?
First off your warranty is gonna be gone. Second your car will probably break. Third why dont you just try bolts ons and a tune first, youll be at 300hp.
oh boy.
with what i got from your last thread is that your car is stock and youve been having alot of problems. Now you want to jump straight to 400hp+?
First off your warranty is gonna be gone. Second your car will probably break. Third why dont you just try bolts ons and a tune first, youll be at 300hp.
with what i got from your last thread is that your car is stock and youve been having alot of problems. Now you want to jump straight to 400hp+?
First off your warranty is gonna be gone. Second your car will probably break. Third why dont you just try bolts ons and a tune first, youll be at 300hp.
and if it isnt worth it i will buy another car to build and keep my balt how it is
Last edited by joshsal123; Oct 10, 2011 at 04:17 PM. Reason: didnt write every thing
if you are asking in general the reliability of doing it then it seems pretty reliable. with a trubo swap and some supporting mods and tune you will be at 400 whp.
seems to be plenty of people around that have done turbo swaps and they are fine.
if you are asking what can you do to get there.......then ya as everyone says i would do some smaller mods first, learn a little more about then car then try going for it
seems to be plenty of people around that have done turbo swaps and they are fine.
if you are asking what can you do to get there.......then ya as everyone says i would do some smaller mods first, learn a little more about then car then try going for it
I went with the BNR 2871, had an MAF relocate, BOV w/ charge piping, stock clutch, bigger rims/tires, e47 tune from BYT and had no problems. I'm guessing I was in the 420whp range, though I never dyno'd. I was on the stock clutch and it never even slipped, although we did have to roll into the power slowly on the tune. 400whp is definitely achievable.
please dude, Try a BYT tune. you wont regret it. The driveability at 330whp is alittle insane as it is. You want a daily driver right? 400whp will not be driving in the winter I can tell you that... you need sticky tires just to get the power to the ground and since your in conneticut I doubt you plan on running Nitto NT05's all year round. Do some bolt ons and a tune. Get bolt ons that will transfer with a turbo swap if your still bent on big turbo and built motor.
I get why he wants to do a big jump instead of a couple small ones... I was thinkin a whiles bak I shoulda jus saved a Lil more an got a bigger turbo w/ pipes& tune instead of doin bolt ons an tune...
It makes sense... But yea if your car's havin issues already, you might wanna get those addressed first bucko, more powa won't fix anything except for maybe all the rattles cuz you won't notice/heat em no more
It makes sense... But yea if your car's havin issues already, you might wanna get those addressed first bucko, more powa won't fix anything except for maybe all the rattles cuz you won't notice/heat em no more
if you are asking in general the reliability of doing it then it seems pretty reliable. with a trubo swap and some supporting mods and tune you will be at 400 whp.
seems to be plenty of people around that have done turbo swaps and they are fine.
if you are asking what can you do to get there.......then ya as everyone says i would do some smaller mods first, learn a little more about then car then try going for it
seems to be plenty of people around that have done turbo swaps and they are fine.
if you are asking what can you do to get there.......then ya as everyone says i would do some smaller mods first, learn a little more about then car then try going for it
im not say i can but i know how lol
please dude, Try a BYT tune. you wont regret it. The driveability at 330whp is alittle insane as it is. You want a daily driver right? 400whp will not be driving in the winter I can tell you that... you need sticky tires just to get the power to the ground and since your in conneticut I doubt you plan on running Nitto NT05's all year round. Do some bolt ons and a tune. Get bolt ons that will transfer with a turbo swap if your still bent on big turbo and built motor.
please dude, Try a BYT tune. you wont regret it. The driveability at 330whp is alittle insane as it is. You want a daily driver right? 400whp will not be driving in the winter I can tell you that... you need sticky tires just to get the power to the ground and since your in conneticut I doubt you plan on running Nitto NT05's all year round. Do some bolt ons and a tune. Get bolt ons that will transfer with a turbo swap if your still bent on big turbo and built motor.
windows mainly but it also doesnt like going into gear sometimes but when it does that i have to try like 4 more times and yes i know how to shift lol the shifter linkage witch gm said they fixxed when they just pushed it down back in place under the cup holder, brakes front and back and they still keep burning out,somtimes it wont go into competive mode, every two weeks another coil pack and i have another check enigne light idk what for this time i need to swing by the shop and read it
As much as you dont want to hear it start with these steps as they need to be done regardless before a big turbo. Reliability wise, any time you mod you are prone to more failures but the rotating assembly on these cars seems to be fine up to 500whp. Tranny and clutches are a different story.
Start with your bolt-ons. Downpipes, exhaust, intercooler, shifter, clutch, charge piping, intake, and tune.
Once you have those as your backbone to more power look into other items.
HPFP, zzp cams, valve springs(a must to sping higher rpms).
Start with your bolt-ons. Downpipes, exhaust, intercooler, shifter, clutch, charge piping, intake, and tune.
Once you have those as your backbone to more power look into other items.
HPFP, zzp cams, valve springs(a must to sping higher rpms).
Build a different car for your toy... keep the balt simple
people like byt and zzp have been running in the 400 range for i think over a year for sure now and i havent heard much problems other than things that happen from constantly trying to make more power. their tunes on the other hand for people in that power range are stable and very nice.
the shifter linkage is a disaster from the factory...some of the cable clamps bow and allow the cable to slip. twm as stated before has a billet clamp eliminating the issue. i myself am going to order this setup because my reverse lockout collar is broken.
clutch if slipping now under power then kiss it goodbye.. if your running 400whp then your going to want to look at a stage 4 style clutch and they are rough and break other parts to include, throw out bearing unless upgraded(not all the time but comon), and bending the clutch pedal rod usually very common with the spring pressure these clutches have.
the best thing i can suggest for you would be dp, full intercooler kit and intake with either a byt or zzp tune. those general setups land in the 340-360whp range and close to 400wtq which happens to destroy just about everything most people come accross(civics,s2ks,srt4s,gtis,350z,isf,and some others are the usual races ran). all you have to do is swap out for front slicks if you want to run the track. the turbo kits have way less reliability and usually require fuel upgrades and possibly internal upgrades because as the power goes up people have bent rods and destroyed valve springs or ejected rockers.
obviously its your choice but thats the basic information on both setups and what people tend to like on the site.
the shifter linkage is a disaster from the factory...some of the cable clamps bow and allow the cable to slip. twm as stated before has a billet clamp eliminating the issue. i myself am going to order this setup because my reverse lockout collar is broken.
clutch if slipping now under power then kiss it goodbye.. if your running 400whp then your going to want to look at a stage 4 style clutch and they are rough and break other parts to include, throw out bearing unless upgraded(not all the time but comon), and bending the clutch pedal rod usually very common with the spring pressure these clutches have.
the best thing i can suggest for you would be dp, full intercooler kit and intake with either a byt or zzp tune. those general setups land in the 340-360whp range and close to 400wtq which happens to destroy just about everything most people come accross(civics,s2ks,srt4s,gtis,350z,isf,and some others are the usual races ran). all you have to do is swap out for front slicks if you want to run the track. the turbo kits have way less reliability and usually require fuel upgrades and possibly internal upgrades because as the power goes up people have bent rods and destroyed valve springs or ejected rockers.
obviously its your choice but thats the basic information on both setups and what people tend to like on the site.
i was thinking meth injection and e85 ? idk if you can do both simataniously though i dont understand the e85 thing i know its a alt fuel or somthing but im going to pump meth sooner than later
running e85 and methanol is possible i believe......dont take my word on that because i havent seen it yet but running full e-alt fuel has been accomplished and byt knows exactly whats going on there because he helped figure it all out on hpt forum.
basically e85 is a colder burning fuel which has different fuel demands when compared to regualr gas. if im not mistaken e85 likes to be richer than normal gas. but e85 does cool **** for us like burn colder as i said before wich lowers cylinder temps and allows for more timing and saves parts at the same time. you can expect power gains up to 340 whp or maybe a little more on a fully bolted e-car.
this is an example of a byt car....reg gas, bolt ons, and meth
basically e85 is a colder burning fuel which has different fuel demands when compared to regualr gas. if im not mistaken e85 likes to be richer than normal gas. but e85 does cool **** for us like burn colder as i said before wich lowers cylinder temps and allows for more timing and saves parts at the same time. you can expect power gains up to 340 whp or maybe a little more on a fully bolted e-car.
this is an example of a byt car....reg gas, bolt ons, and meth



