Another rocker came off (I didn't do anything wrong this time lol) and damaged my exhaust cam.

Sometime next week I will be replacing my cams, all rockers, all lash adjusters, and my timing chain tensioner.

Would anyone like me to make a detailed how to for this?

Also, any tips are welcome.

 

You could be the first with the How-To my friend lol.

It's pretty straight forward though. The hardest part will be timing the motor. Just look up torque specs and you'll be good to go.

 

Im pretty confident. 40rty has been helping me out a lot with advice so far. Apparently timing an ecotec is "fool proof"

 

From what I understand, it is. There are timing marks a plenty so if that's the hardest part then I think you're golden

It's just one of those things that you just take your time, do one part at a time and mark everything. Even take pictures to help remember where things go and how things are routed.

Pretty much remove valve cover. removing timing chain and tensioner, remove HPFP, unbolt cam carriers, remove cams, swap over cam gears (etc), reinstall and time motor..... basically lol.

 

i'm in for a how to i was thinking about camming mine just since it seems so easy sitting on top of the motor and what not

 

Damn, I was just thinking about this too. I've done cams on my old Spec V. Not difficult just tedious. It can't be all that different from a Cobalt.

Good luck man!

 

Id like a how to. sucks i have to get a cam sensor pressed on for mine

 

A how-to would be pretty nice, if you will

 

Its really easy, just mark your chain with a paint pen/brush where the diamond is on the intake cam and the triangle is on the exhaust cam with your engine at top dead center (pistons 1 and 4 up). Remove the timing chain tensioner and do one cam at a time and you'll be golden.

 

caliiiick

 

I would also appreciate a how to. Good luck bro on the swap. Are you going ZZP by chance or stock?

 

I'd like see a good how to on this. Sucks about the bad luck on things. I saw what happened before with the over rev. Hope this fixes everything. Semper Fi!

 

Make sure you lube the lobes on the install. Also make sure you use the torque specs for cam caps. You don't want to strip a hole or break off a bolt. If the lnf is like the lsj timing is pretty easy. All you have to do is put the car to TDC and line up the marks.

 

I also don't know if you wanna buy it or not, but I have a new exhaust cam that I bought from mongorat a while back when a rocker came off and damaged my exhaust cam. Never been used.

 

make sure you set the teeth in correctly. make sure everything is lined up correctly. double check, re read manufacter specs. and triple check, and quadruple check...

i have seen sooo many ppl have no compression because they read something wrong. or was off by 1 tooth.

 

It will run fine on 1 tooth off. Mine jumped a tooth when I replaced the closest rocker/lash adjuster to the front of the engine on the exhaust cam. Your phasers will just be frozen. I fixed that the same day.

 

still should quadruple check...

 

Oh yeah, most def. Was just saying you'd still have compression.

 

i broke a bolt. but got it out what are the specs for the caps

 

I would really reccomend removing the front cover if you're at all doubting the timing up top. That and the high pressure fuel pump should be installed when the follower is at its lowest point in the bore to avoid pump damage.

 

Would I have to remove the timing chain cover to do this?

That would require removal of the crank pulley and crap right? More work... lol.

Any more rips before I get starte?

 

If you want to be absolutely sure of your timing, you can remove the timing cover, but 40rty did it without removing it. He ty-rapped the timing chain up. Can't wait for this write-up, btw.

 

I have done it both ways. I like doing the cams and timing by pulling the front cover. Just be careful when removing the cams there selves because they will flop when you start to loosen them. and that could cause the valve to hit the piston. Simply pull the cams and the cover and then you can rotate the crank into the right position of 5 oclock, and place cams back in the right position rotate your timing chain till all the marks line up and your good to go. 89 inch pounds on the cam caps. 22ftlbs and 100 degrees on the actuator bolts (which have to be replaced each time) and 55 ftlbs on the timing chain tensioner.

 

If you do it the other way you have to absolutly make sure the timing chain does not come off the crank where it will easily jump teeth at that point, and there is no way to know it till you start it. Also to pull the timing cover you need to loosen up the engine mount so you can pull one of the bolts out.

Are you upgrading the springs?

 

Can you explain the cam-flopping thing a little better? I don't understand that part. Also, is this the 5 o'clock position you speak of? Also, turn the motor only clockwise, right? Also, how do you turn the motor? Bolt in the crank? Thanks, miller.