Hi guys, I have a 2010 LNF and I'm hoping to get around 350 hp on pump gas, but expecting more like 320/330. So far all I have is a 3" ZZP catless DP but now with tax season coming, I'm trying to figure out the next steps I need to take.

A tune is going to be happening after I have all my necessary supporting mods in place. A friend of mine referred me to a shop in Mass (I'm out of RI) that will put me on a dyno until Im happy for about $500 and 150 for any adjustments down the line. Im hoping for 21-23psi out of the ko4 but maybe a zfr kit will be in order next year.

I'm getting a K&N drop in this week, but keeping the factory airbox and intake pipe for now, but a CAI will happen before the summer

I'll be upgrading the intercooler soon, but I'm not sure who to go with. I'm stuck between a Hahn Racing (with red lettering to match the crystal red paint) or ZZP.

Along with inter cooling, I'm debating if charge pipes are a necessity or just an appearance mod. I already have T-Bolt clamps on the stock pipes (previous owner) so hopefully the stock pipes wont blow off at full boost. Also, regardless if they're needed or not, i will at least have an upper installed before the summer is over (most likely Injen).

Thanks for any advice, and if anyone has any of the parts for sale, feel free to mention it! Ive been checking classifieds daily to find a deal haha

 

Well my friend made 330/370 with a zzp catless downpipe and tune only on pump gas.

I made 351whp/378 with full bolt ons on pump gas but it'll be argued here.

I'd get someone on here to tune you, term2/kmo/area47 instead of a local shop, cheaper and most likely a better tune. Make sure you get them to ramp your boost so you aren't looking for a new clutch after 3 pulls.

Are you able to run an e blend? If not, would you consider meth? a lot of people tune for e47 and can make that power a lot easier and safer than pump gas.

Id go with the zzp fmic to save some money, they're arguably the same. My friend ran 24.5psi through his stock charge piping for a year straight and it never blew up so its hit and miss.

Supposedly the coldside piping really doesn't need to be changed from stock from what I've heard, but hotside (top) is pretty common to swap out. I have injen allt of people go with zzp.

 

Depends on how much you want to spend and if you ever want anymore than 350. Inter cooler and charge pipes are good from the factory but can fail over time. Factory exhaust is also good except downpipe which you have changed.
If you will be satisfied with 350 forever and don't want to run e85 or 47 (which can be worth an additional 20-30hp) I would do this-
Replace inter cooler with a ZZP or Hahn but don't get the biggest one- will help with ground clearance. May be able to get a used one cheaper. Only needed do to possibility of factory plastic end tanks failing.
Replace charge pipes with Hahn, ZZP, ingen, etc.
Don't get a cai, mod your factory air box and save money.
Purchase 3 bar map sensors so you can be tuned at higher boost levels
Purchase k04r from turbo bay for $500 and install it yourself.
Keep your factory cat back as there isn't much if any to gain from an aftermarket one at 350hp.
Find someone who knows these cars very well to tune you- most important part. Out where you are you may want to look up 09cobaltss1 you can message him on here. He lives in the northeast and does a great job.
Purchase Powell rotated trans mounts to help with wheel hop.
You should be close with this. If you can run e then you may not need the r wheel turbo as you can come close to 350 by maxing out stock turbo on e. And the 350 in talking about is whp- or about 380ish flywheel hp.

 

more like new tranny not new clutch

 

downpipe and a good tune from good tuner on here will get you about 320 or more whp, so doesn't take much. you want 350-400 whp here is what u do

downpipe, intake (drop in is good), intercooler, chargepipe, zfr turbo upgrade and a good tune. ull hit 350+ no problem on pump. get an exhaust for awesome sound and some more power with zfr. And also look at powell oil separator to keep you valves cleaner. And maybe some meth for north of 400whp. not the smoking type, the spraying in ur motor type lol

 

A stock clutch should be first to let go of assume. If it was a ky s3 I'd imagine the Tranny would be the first to go lol

 

So what kind of 1/4 mi. trap speeds will 300whp net? 320whp? 330? 350?
I am in the same boat as OP...all I have is HPT and a zzp 3" catless DP.
My goal is to roll with a stock 5.0 coyote- not a dig- a roll... on 93 oct.

 

Ull roll with it on a good tune. Idk about quarter mile, goto drag racing section and see, fwd car so they arnt to great lol

 

First thing to do for 1/4 mile times is driver mod. Without it no amount of power will really reliably reduce your speed. 60' times are your killer, learn how to slip the clutch to launch and not rev to 5 grand and drop it. 300whp should be good for low 13's (depending on torque curve and driver mod) after that take this math into consideration.

100 lbs = 10hp added on the 1/4 mile
10 hp = roughly .1 second drop assuming the same 60' foot and 1/8th mile
100hp = a second drop also depending on above.

at 353 whp 380wtq I was able to run my fastest at a 12.6 however that was a 1.9 second 60' and on hoosier DOT drag radials.

mods most important are

#1 Driver mod
#2 suspension setup for drag
#3 tires
#4 power/weight (these are equally important)

 

Downpipe and a good tune will pull on a stock/lightly modded 5.0. I put about a car and a half on a friends intake exhaust Bama tuned 5.0

 

How did you cut a 1.9 on drag radials, do tell. What rpm were you slipping from or did you not slip the clutch. Best I've done so far was a 2.2 and it's killing my et.
Oh and to add to toms list- every .10 you lower your 60ft time it will translate to .20 lower et.

 

350 horse? Ethanol mix, full bolt ons to let her breath efficiently, and a damn good tune. 344hp here on mustang dyno... Still running 2.5 catback too.

 

bolt ons, tune, and E47 lol

 

Thanks for all the advice.
You missed my question.
I asked only about TRAP SPEED. We all know a fwd car with torque is either gonna spin or break stuff unless the corresponding upgrades have been performed.
I have zero interest in ET.
I had a S3 skittle that would trap 118mph but only go 13.4. Whooped up on the coyotes pretty good from a roll and was a chachi'd out pos but never broke. No traction until about 75-80mph.

The cobalt is wrong wheel drive too. I need a dd that I CAN DRIVE IF IT SNOWS A LITTLE OR RAINS AND GETS awesome mpg's. This cobalt is pefect.

You gave me a nice chart but not a single mph. MPH=HORSEPOWER.

I just want to pull even with or possibly harder than a coyote.

 

You cobalt guys and your 3.82 trans kick some serious ass roll racing. I'm betting 320whp on a decent curved tune will easily pull a stock 2014 coyote 5.0 from a 40 roll.
Side note... Stock 2014 coyote 5.0 is faster than 2015 from 40 roll.

 

I don't have drag numbers but here is a fully bolted Balt on the R & Meth



Sorry my launch sucked on winters and the roll I wasn't ready

 

Multiple people have already said boltons and tune and you'll pull harder than coyotes. Side note I rolled out on a big wheel cammed s3 neon from a 60kph roll by about a car or two

 

Run some cray gas and low altitude on a dyno jet and your there.

But generally 310whp is the max for a normal lnf on normal pump gas, which is about 340hp crank

 

Tuned cobalt with bolt ons on 93 octane can pull a stock 5.0 in a roll race. a tuned bolt on cobalt is about dead par even with a bolt on tuned 5.0 putting down 400whp in a roll race. Depending on the tune the cobalt could still pull. Id be willing to bet a Term tune on 93 octane would still pull a tuned 5.0.



Trap speeds depend on the tune as well. a Good HP tune on 93 octane can be anywhere from 107-114 mph.

 

350 whp is achievable with just a tune. Especially if you want to run E47 fuel......that stuff is money.

I tuned an LNF this last weekend that made 230/240 at the wheels stock on a Mustang Dyno. E47 and about an hour later it was throwing down 333/381 at the wheels on the same dyno. If that ain't fun, I don't know what is!