2.0L LNF Performance Tech 260hp and 260 lb-ft of torque Turbocharged tuner version.

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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 01:18 PM
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Rotors

ok i need rotors but i dont know which ones to get... what do u guys recomend?
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 01:19 PM
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With your numbers, slotted/drilled for sure haha. But I've never ran S/D rotors before, so I'm not really sure what your best bet would be...aside from a big brake kit
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 01:21 PM
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R1 slotted rotors worked for me
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 01:29 PM
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but ho do i know they are for the brembos? i just need the front ones but cant seem to find the ones that are for the "LNF"
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 01:32 PM
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I was looking at the R1 concepts slotted only. Had a price of $310 for all 4 but never pulled the trigger.
Maybe next spring. I wouldn't get drilled & slotted, too much chance of cracking. The slotted would help strip the water off on rainy days IMO.
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 01:34 PM
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ok so the R1 work for the brembos? and yeah i want just slotted... i dont trust S/D rotors...
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 01:37 PM
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cant seem to find the front rotors from R1.... they dont have them listed on their site...
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 01:48 PM
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You have to call them up and order it. I had mine for over a year now
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 02:03 PM
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Slotted rotors, no modern street pad (top of the line performance or not) will make use of drilled rotors.


edit: im an idiot and just now saw this.
Originally Posted by cardelino18
ok so the R1 work for the brembos? and yeah i want just slotted... i dont trust S/D rotors...
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 02:09 PM
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just get these

Cobalt 2008-2009 Front Rotor 25994100 - Crate Engine Depot

stock rotors are fine, surface area >slotted or drilled
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by G Speed
just get these

Cobalt 2008-2009 Front Rotor 25994100 - Crate Engine Depot

stock rotors are fine, surface area >slotted or drilled


I don't know why people don't realise this lol. The only reason you would want Slotted and/or Drilled water is for better stopping power in the wet and for better looks. In dry conditions our stock blank rotors stop the best.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by tom.g


I don't know why people don't realise this lol. The only reason you would want Slotted and/or Drilled water is for better stopping power in the wet and for better looks. In dry conditions our stock blank rotors stop the best.
Honestly in the wet once they are hot, they are also amazing :P

But they have to be really hot :P
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 09:20 PM
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john powell always told will and david that the stock ss/tc ones are the best but david has the r1 slotted ones front and rear and said there pretty good he also said the stock pads are the best too at least for the front ...
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 10:43 PM
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if you are autocrossing or road racing alot slotted and drilled might be worth it. But for street or drag use not even close to worth it.

Drilled rotors dissipate heat much more quickly which reduces brake fade in technical road racing and such (on and off brakes alot). Unless you are racing that thing every weekend, stay stock. The pads for S/D rotors are softer too, to take advantage of the greater heat dissipation and to increase grip to stop faster but they wear out mroe quickly. I personally have never cracked a drilled rotor but I'm sure it can happen.

Go with the R1 pads on stock rotors... I agree with Grishbok, no pads you can buy for the street (at a reasonable price) will take full advantage of the S/D rotors.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by RyRidesMotox
if you are autocrossing or road racing alot slotted and drilled might be worth it. But for street or drag use not even close to worth it.

Drilled rotors dissipate heat much more quickly which reduces brake fade in technical road racing and such (on and off brakes alot). Unless you are racing that thing every weekend, stay stock. The pads for S/D rotors are softer too, to take advantage of the greater heat dissipation and to increase grip to stop faster but they wear out mroe quickly. I personally have never cracked a drilled rotor but I'm sure it can happen.

Go with the R1 pads on stock rotors... I agree with Grishbok, no pads you can buy for the street (at a reasonable price) will take full advantage of the S/D rotors.
wrong. If you plan on autocrossing or road racing you DO NOT want drilled. They will crack if they get hot enough. Slotted is safe. Smooth is best really. Formula one uses smooth for a reason.

I only got drilled cuz they look good. I'll switch to smooth if I ever decide to road race it, which probably won't be anytime soon. Drilled looks good, and that's about it. It does help in the rain though.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 10:52 PM
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True, larger area is better and slotted arent necessary. That being said, if you do get blanks, then get the R1 concept blanks as they arent as soft as the GM blanks and wont score as easily. I know not everyone has had issues with the rotors and most of the issues on the rear are caused by the pins not being properly greased and/or the e-brake sticking but, IMHO, the stock rotors are too soft and go to **** easily *shrugs* I got the R1 slotted all the way around cause I needed new ones and they look cool.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 10:59 PM
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eh i went to the track on saturday for time attack and was driving hard as **** 0-130 and back down to 40 for the turns and i was fine all day didnt have and break fade or anything and im on stock rotors and pads
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 11:00 PM
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slotted - win. drilled - fail BECAUSE it weakens the rotors. go for powerslots.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 11:04 PM
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Stock with proper pads. I just got back from VIR. I terrorized cars many times the value of mine. Stock rotors, Cobalt Friction XR1 up front, but I only put them on for the track.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 11:12 PM
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So then every single ZR1 vette is going to have cracked rotors then? Damn sucks for them. Why would chevy design a um "race car" with slotted rotors? Slotted is great for racing if they are constructed right. In formula 1 they have like $5k in carbon fiber ducting to cool the brakes... Last I checked my cobalt did not.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 11:13 PM
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cause those are carbon ceramic rotors
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 11:23 PM
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So are the ZR1 rotors. I like wangspeed's set up. You can't possibly drive a cobalt hard enough to need drilled rotors... Unless its that cobalt tt or whatever race car GM was using
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 11:41 PM
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yae he meant the zr1 are carbon ceramics...super expensive to do a brake job and yup the stock rotors do and did just fine! and btw my g2 painted calipers held up fine at the track...
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 11:53 PM
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Drilled will crack. It's not a matter of if, it's a matter of when. Unless you just drive them like a grandma.

Slotted? Waste of money on a rotor this small, IMO. My poor stock rotors glow lap after lap, and they are very smooth with no cracks.
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 08:46 AM
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I'm at 40 000 kms and have had my rotors replaced twice already and the new ones turned once. Has anyone had issues with the slotted R1 Concepts? I'm looking into getting some but don't want to dish out 500 bucks (I'm from Canada) unless I'm not going to have the same issue. I'm in the dealership probably every six weeks getting the damn rotors turned and it's seriously pissing me off!
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