Safe lnf build
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From: Lewiston, Utah
Safe lnf build
Hey guys, I'm looking at adding some bolt ons then getting a tune. But I'm unsure about what to get since the car will be daily driven. I was thinking
K&N Typhoon, Zzp fmic, injen charge pipes, and gm sensors, 3" catback exhaust. Is there any advise you guys could give me? Will I be safe? Will I need something else? I'll also be adding a aeroforce inceptor gauge
K&N Typhoon, Zzp fmic, injen charge pipes, and gm sensors, 3" catback exhaust. Is there any advise you guys could give me? Will I be safe? Will I need something else? I'll also be adding a aeroforce inceptor gauge
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Honsestly unless you just want to spend the cash, I would mod your airbox, and keep the factory catback since you aren't pushing power. The best money spent is on the tune and a less restrictive down pipe. Factory exhaust is pretty free flowing at 320whp and below.
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From: Livonia, MI
I would have to agree. Just be prepared for when the stock intercooler cracks
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From: Lewiston, Utah
Thread Starter
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From: Lewiston, Utah
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From: Manitoba, Canada
Originally Posted by slapbetcommissioner
I wouldn't waste money on catback if you aren't even doing the dp.
Mod your airbox and get a tune. Best bang for the $
Mod your airbox and get a tune. Best bang for the $
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From: Lewiston, Utah
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From: Manitoba, Canada
Id be wary about changing the cat. Know your states laws first. Some states say you cant touch the cat at least for like 150k miles. You could get a highflow cat like that zzp 400 cell one then hold on to the stock downpipe. You could always swap the dp for emissions testing days.
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From: NJ
As others said, DP if you can get away with it. Tune is absolutely #1 for both power and reliability. I bought HP Tuners and taught myself and tuned it myself. Not for everyone, but not impossibly complicated either.
As far as the stock intercooler and top plastic charge pipe, I kept both thinking they might go the distance. At my 23-24psi tune the end cap of the stock IC blew apart and cost me a $250 towing bill. That was about 8 weeks after I tuned it. You would think I would have enough sense at that point to change the upper plastic charge pipe, but I left it hoping I could repair it on the roadside if and when it ever went. 10 months after the tune (just recently) the upper charge pipe split open right on the top like many others have pictured on these forums. Was lucky enough to limp it into Walmart parking lot and tape it up with Gorilla tape to avoid another towing bill. So IMHO best to change both those items with any HP tune to be safe and reliable.
BTW, I going from the GMS1 tune (was on the car when I bought it a little over a year ago) to the HP Tune was night and day. Amazing what "just" a tune does on these cars, even over a factory performance tune. You really don't need a ton of parts thrown at it on a DD to make enough power to be very fun (and surprise a lot of high dollar performance cars).
As far as the stock intercooler and top plastic charge pipe, I kept both thinking they might go the distance. At my 23-24psi tune the end cap of the stock IC blew apart and cost me a $250 towing bill. That was about 8 weeks after I tuned it. You would think I would have enough sense at that point to change the upper plastic charge pipe, but I left it hoping I could repair it on the roadside if and when it ever went. 10 months after the tune (just recently) the upper charge pipe split open right on the top like many others have pictured on these forums. Was lucky enough to limp it into Walmart parking lot and tape it up with Gorilla tape to avoid another towing bill. So IMHO best to change both those items with any HP tune to be safe and reliable.
BTW, I going from the GMS1 tune (was on the car when I bought it a little over a year ago) to the HP Tune was night and day. Amazing what "just" a tune does on these cars, even over a factory performance tune. You really don't need a ton of parts thrown at it on a DD to make enough power to be very fun (and surprise a lot of high dollar performance cars).
If I had a complete stock LNF that I was going to DD, I would do K&N drop-in stock air box, catted downpipe, and a conservative 23psi tune. Will be safe and still make a fun enjoyable DD.
Originally Posted by royce777
If I had a complete stock LNF that I was going to DD, I would do K&N drop-in stock air box, catted downpipe, and a conservative 23psi tune. Will be safe and still make a fun enjoyable DD.
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From: Lewiston, Utah
As others said, DP if you can get away with it. Tune is absolutely #1 for both power and reliability. I bought HP Tuners and taught myself and tuned it myself. Not for everyone, but not impossibly complicated either.
As far as the stock intercooler and top plastic charge pipe, I kept both thinking they might go the distance. At my 23-24psi tune the end cap of the stock IC blew apart and cost me a $250 towing bill. That was about 8 weeks after I tuned it. You would think I would have enough sense at that point to change the upper plastic charge pipe, but I left it hoping I could repair it on the roadside if and when it ever went. 10 months after the tune (just recently) the upper charge pipe split open right on the top like many others have pictured on these forums. Was lucky enough to limp it into Walmart parking lot and tape it up with Gorilla tape to avoid another towing bill. So IMHO best to change both those items with any HP tune to be safe and reliable.
BTW, I going from the GMS1 tune (was on the car when I bought it a little over a year ago) to the HP Tune was night and day. Amazing what "just" a tune does on these cars, even over a factory performance tune. You really don't need a ton of parts thrown at it on a DD to make enough power to be very fun (and surprise a lot of high dollar performance cars).
As far as the stock intercooler and top plastic charge pipe, I kept both thinking they might go the distance. At my 23-24psi tune the end cap of the stock IC blew apart and cost me a $250 towing bill. That was about 8 weeks after I tuned it. You would think I would have enough sense at that point to change the upper plastic charge pipe, but I left it hoping I could repair it on the roadside if and when it ever went. 10 months after the tune (just recently) the upper charge pipe split open right on the top like many others have pictured on these forums. Was lucky enough to limp it into Walmart parking lot and tape it up with Gorilla tape to avoid another towing bill. So IMHO best to change both those items with any HP tune to be safe and reliable.
BTW, I going from the GMS1 tune (was on the car when I bought it a little over a year ago) to the HP Tune was night and day. Amazing what "just" a tune does on these cars, even over a factory performance tune. You really don't need a ton of parts thrown at it on a DD to make enough power to be very fun (and surprise a lot of high dollar performance cars).
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From: Manitoba, Canada
A true safe lnf build is not to mod it at all. I said the same thing...and well I got zzp catted dp, intercooler, upper and lower charge pipes, zfr 6758, south bend stage 4 clutch, new flywheel, gms1 sensors, turboxs fl exhaust, bps short throw, and tuned at zzp. Once you start, your going to want to do more trust me.
Last edited by 10blkss; Jun 20, 2017 at 06:24 PM.
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From: Battle Creek, MI
A true safe lnf build is not to mod it all. I said the same thing...and well I got zzp catted dp, intercooler, upper and lower charge pipes, zfr 6758, south bend stage 4 clutch, new flywheel, gms1 sensors, turboxs fl exhaust, bps short throw, and tuned at zzp. Once you start, your going to want to do more trust me.
When I bought it I got it tuned a few weeks after. On a 90* day it put down 230/218 stock, and just a tune brough it to 283/314. Then the bug hit and now a few bolt on and turbo swap later I'm happy at the moment, but I'm sure that'll change again in due time.