Seafoam
Seafoam
how many people use seafoam on thier car? can you really tell a difference? i have just over 50k miles on my 09 ss and have never done it but im about due for an oil change soon do you think i should give it a shot?
Before everybody gets all the caps locks out to tell you to use the 'search button'....
Yes, it works
Yes, you can tell an immediate difference
Yes, you should do it every oil change if you can
No, it wont hurt your engine
Yes, the smoke is normal
You put 1/3 in the gas tank, 1/3 in the oil, 1/3 in the intake manifold, or however you want to do it
Drive hard to clear everything out
Change your oil afterwards
Yes, it works
Yes, you can tell an immediate difference
Yes, you should do it every oil change if you can
No, it wont hurt your engine
Yes, the smoke is normal
You put 1/3 in the gas tank, 1/3 in the oil, 1/3 in the intake manifold, or however you want to do it
Drive hard to clear everything out
Change your oil afterwards
I did it months ago and didn't feel much of a difference. it didn't smoke either, this was on my LNF. however on my LSJ I did it and oh boy did it make a difference, I had a sticky lifter and it cleaned it up.
Joined: 05-18-11
Posts: 39,564
Likes: 87
From: West Chicago, IL
LSJ valves actually get a SHITTON of gunk so seafoaming is good. My method was to put 1/3 in gas tank and oil when i leave the autopart store (With new oil change stuff)
and when i get home from that trip, i put the rest in the vac line, do the oil, then drive. it smoked for a LONG time
and when i get home from that trip, i put the rest in the vac line, do the oil, then drive. it smoked for a LONG time
Seafoaming DI engines probably is a wste of time as the build up of coking on the inlet valves will probably be unaffected. Seafoaming can hurt the non metallic parts of the engine assembly. Some people love the stuff, many folks have an experience like C_D_88
LSJ valves actually get a SHITTON of gunk so seafoaming is good. My method was to put 1/3 in gas tank and oil when i leave the autopart store (With new oil change stuff)
and when i get home from that trip, i put the rest in the vac line, do the oil, then drive. it smoked for a LONG time
and when i get home from that trip, i put the rest in the vac line, do the oil, then drive. it smoked for a LONG time
Joined: 05-18-11
Posts: 39,564
Likes: 87
From: West Chicago, IL
i used the one that goes into a t on the right side of the engine. i think it comes from the front somewhere and goes into the t having to loop around so the end faces the front. if that makes sense. lol
Valves
When I had my issues with the coking of the valves I seafoamed the car before I brought it into Nate( day before was having drive ability issues, ongoing for a few days) seafoamed the car, drove the car out to Nate, didn't see any real issues with the valves, lasted about a month untill my drive ability issue came back, didn't seafoam the car and brought it back to Nate and he found the issue and replaced the valves, cars been fine ever since. And from that day on I seafoam at every oil change as preventative maintenance
If minds ran into that problem, I will just clean/replace my valves. We can make something that can adapt to a vacuum to contain the media that works with those portable soda blasters that Eastwood sells? Get on it John... LoL
I think it would help with the throttle-body, but most of us are putting it in after the throttle body. I wanted to try and put it through the barb on the coldside pipe, but I was afraid it would mess up my TMAP sensor. I didn't get any smoke, either, btw, on either of the two occasions I've used it.
I used it on my LNF sky that i bought. It smoked like absolute madness (65k miles) it looked like the whole neighborhood was on fire. The old fart that owned it before me probably never stepped on the gas and there was a ton of buildup. Maybe it's placebo but the car seems to idle a lot better now- but i also replaced the plugs so that could be an explanation as-well. If Jon says it does nothing than i would guess that it's true- however, either way the smoke is fun .
If you go to the MB site there is a serious discussion about the coking issue, and elsewhere I have covered it off in detail. The discussion runs from "seafoam works" to "seafoam really screws with rubber and viton seals " and the issue with coking is " the engine oil" /"the lousy gas" /"the pcv"/ "the driving habits"etc.
clean the valves, and then do the pcv upgrade; use low ash oil; use tier 1 hi-test 93 octane gas;dont lug the engine at low revs high boost/ etc.
clean the valves, and then do the pcv upgrade; use low ash oil; use tier 1 hi-test 93 octane gas;dont lug the engine at low revs high boost/ etc.
Last edited by Powell Race Parts; Dec 13, 2012 at 06:58 PM.
Good post it is, but actually Mobil 1 euro spec is also low ash, about 1.2% or something I can check the eact spec. the ESP oil price is retarded. I use the Eurospec oil in 0w40 for my Saab wntrbtr2 and buy it for under 10 dollars a liter, but not sure if the europsec oil can be had in 5W30.
If I had an LNF I would not change the viscosity of the oil from the 5w30 that GM specify....although the Saab is a turbo as well and specifies 0W40 (eurospec.)
If I had an LNF I would not change the viscosity of the oil from the 5w30 that GM specify....although the Saab is a turbo as well and specifies 0W40 (eurospec.)
If you go to the MB site there is a serious discussion about the coking issue, and elsewhere I have covered it off in detail. The discussion runs from "seafoam works" to "seafoam really screws with rubber and viton seals " and the issue with coking is " the engine oil" /"the lousy gas" /"the pcv"/ "the driving habits"etc.
clean the valves, and then do the pcv upgrade; use low ash oil; use tier 1 hi-test 93 octane gas;dont lug the engine at low revs high boost/ etc.
clean the valves, and then do the pcv upgrade; use low ash oil; use tier 1 hi-test 93 octane gas;dont lug the engine at low revs high boost/ etc.
Clean valves as In open vc and scrub?
I am thinking top tier 91 (Shell , Exxon Mobil) would be okay but not if you are running a tune... the proper way to clean the valves without removing the cylinder head, is remove the inlet manifold and media blast and vacuum. the media is wood so will burn off if there is any residue left over. Mazda, Vdub, MB, GM v6 3.6 , a car called Seat, ( one of the first DI motors ten years or so ago) Audi, Toyota BMW all these DI motors suffer the same way...with the LNF the issues as I see them are on another thread on this site.
For some reason GM service is stripping heads under warranty and fixing them that way, but the generally accepted service engineering resolution used by all the other manufacturers, is to media blast and vacuum the valve stems in place. The LNF has such a lot of oil vapor running into the turbo impeller (Wangspeed gets about 150 ml in one track session) that there is in fact a drain on the stock intercooler.
Our PCV upgrade goes a long way to assisting in prevention. It is not a catch can, it is a specialized oil seperator system, commonly found in diesel applications.
For some reason GM service is stripping heads under warranty and fixing them that way, but the generally accepted service engineering resolution used by all the other manufacturers, is to media blast and vacuum the valve stems in place. The LNF has such a lot of oil vapor running into the turbo impeller (Wangspeed gets about 150 ml in one track session) that there is in fact a drain on the stock intercooler.
Our PCV upgrade goes a long way to assisting in prevention. It is not a catch can, it is a specialized oil seperator system, commonly found in diesel applications.



