turbo swap in t minus 2 weeks
turbo swap in t minus 2 weeks
So not this weekend but next weekend im throwing on the bnr 2871 then getting tuned a couple days after that. Any tips so I can get the turbo on smoothly and easy? I don't wanna have to take it off For having preventable issues.
Read FrossB's Treadstone install. He goes over a few good tips on removing the stock turbo.
From what I gather it's not difficult just time consuming. Drain coolant for sure. Get a can of PB Blaster ready.
From what I gather it's not difficult just time consuming. Drain coolant for sure. Get a can of PB Blaster ready.
I would use high heat anti seize on the bolts. I didn't use it one time and half my bolts on the o2 housing were seized. I used it every time after and never had any problems. Also make sure you use all the right torque specifications.
Copper crush washers? Not that i know of. He included copper washers for the new banjo bolts but I just used the same ones that were already on the K04. I dont know if he still includes them or not.
You dont have to drain the coolant, just use one of those line clip tools that mechanics use, it will prevent the coolant from draining constantly while you work. thats what I did. I got minimal drip from the lines when I did it this way.
You dont have to drain the coolant, just use one of those line clip tools that mechanics use, it will prevent the coolant from draining constantly while you work. thats what I did. I got minimal drip from the lines when I did it this way.
Basically:
-Remove Intake
-Remove Upper CP
-Optional:Remove VC to give you some more room to play with
-Clamp coolant hoses
-Unbolt and remove DP(trust me, its easier with it out of the way,some choose to leave it hanging there)
-Disconnect the breather lines
-Disconnect O2 wiring harness
-Remove heat shielding(kinda a PITA lol)
-Once DP is removed you will have to remove the support bracket and arm down by the turbo
-Unbolt and disconnect all lines
-Loosen the nuts that hold the turbo in place but do not remove(just so you have some play)
-This is where you need to decide whether you are going to try and take the turbo out through the bottom or the top with the O2 on or off. I tried both with the O2 housing still on and for the life of me, I could not find a way to get the whole damn thing out via top or bottom. So I undid the nuts that hold the housing to the turbo and once they were separated it was a piece of cake to remove them separately from one another, you have to do this anyway to bolt it onto the BNR. Maybe someone else has a better way...???
-Once its out you want to pull the ring gaskets out of each end of the O2 housing and replace them with the new ones I told you to buy. One end is the DP and the other is the turbo. IF THIS IS NOT DONE YOU RUN THE RISK OF A LEAK. It happened to me man, better to be safe than sorry and have to do all this **** again like me. Leak at the DP, not too big of a adeal but annoying and easy to fix. Leak at the turbo? LOL sucks ass big time!
-Put the spacer that BNR provides in place with the two new stock turbo mani gaskets I told you to get too. This is straight forward: gasket---spacer---gasket.
-With the new ring gaskets in place position the turbo and O2 housing back behind the engine and bolt them back together tightly and evenly.
-Then bolt the turbo back on and start messing with the lines to get them all positioned as you like. This takes a little planning and bending but its up to you on how you want to route everything.
-Once the lines are in place bolt them down with the banjo bolts and gaskets
-Figure out how you want to run your VAC lines and connect all those
-And now basically just put everything back together.
This is a very rough list on what to do. There are small steps missing but you will figure tha out as you go. These are all the main steps. Little things can, and will go wrong or delay your progress. Its normal and part of the swap.
Good luck sir!
