Yep I remember LOL. Any update OP?

 

Ok I have seen where a lifter will break on a exhaust side and won't cause a cel and take out the map sensor might just want to pull the valve cover off and check it to see if all your litters are there and in the correct spot lol but I work at a dealership as a tech

 

okay, time to update.

Tightening the MAF screws did nothing.

Never took off bumper to check IC, lol. BUT, I threw back on the stock airbox and reset the PCM by disconnecting the battery.

No good. Still got negative stfts and ltfts. REAL negative, it seems the stock airbox makes them climb even quicker So for all those dumbies out there saying the problem is an aftermarket intake with a stock tune... in YO FacE!

I really thinking its a cracked IC.... How does the bumper come off? do I have to do anything underneathe? Or is it just take out headlights and undo a few pop up screws and bolts?

Where does the IC normally crack? Near the charge pipe tubes? Is the ZZP IC out yet ?

 

did you try the soleniod?

 

no. I know unplugging it wont fix the problem, this is a big leak. I dont think the Purge solenoid would enough of an opening for a leak. I tried to take it off but I need to get an extension for my massive rachet.

 

Are you running stock CPs? Stock IC would crack at the plattic end tanks or leak badly where the endtanks meet the core. Stock CPs normally crack right on the pancake part of the hotpipe.

 

Both of mine cracked right here:


You can see it without taking the bumper off, but you do have to take off that lower splash shield.

 

I have the ZZP hotside charge pipe with the stock couplers. The cold side charge pipe is stock. The intercooler is stock. I dont see any free floating vacuum tubing I checked all the connections. I checked the T-bolts holding the hotside in place and they are all pretty tight. Could they be too tight and crack the intercooler endtank where it meets the charge pipe?

This problem happened right after NLSing into 4th on the highway. Car choked for a sec like a missfire but there were no missfires detected and then the stfts and ltfts shot way down negative.

 

how much boost are you seeing? none at all? are you sure its not limp mode causing you not to get any boost?

 

well when it wouldnt go past 0.0, I suspected limp mode. From what I did see when the fuel werent too retarded high, I got 12.0psi.

NO CEL. Thats the wierd part.

 

I agree that this sounds like a boost leak of some sort. That valve cover noise is similar to a noise I've had before though. It's not a DI sound or a normal tick. It's an additional tick under the valve cover, in my case being on the number 1's side.

If something was up with one of the valves opening properly, then not as much air would be getting in/through that cylinder, and therefore less fuel would be needed... meaning you'd have a large negative fuel trim. The problem is that AFR is measured from all 4 cylinders combined, and I'd imagine it could make the car run lean on the other 3 cylinders in an exaggerated case.

In the case of the LNFs, it freezes the LTFT where it's at.

If you unplug it and then reset the ECU, LTFT will reset to and remain at 0.

Since I have a small LTFT normally, after a reset, I'll keep evap enabled, allow the LTFT adjust on a drive or two, and then disable evap to freeze LTFT in a better spot.

 

cool thanks, thats what i thought i read somewhere but wasnt sure. thanks for the clarifaction.

 

Sounds like a good excuse for a ZZP intercooler(is it even on sale yet?) I hope you figure out your problem. I assume you are going to do a boost leak check now and get back to us?

 

yes exactly. It sounds like its coming from the right side of the motor just under the valve cover, its very light and actually sometimes it goes away! I tried listening for it yesterday. I heard it and then after a good 5 minutes it was gone. The car was already warmed up as well. if you facing the front of your car does the number one cylinder start on the left side (Passenger side)?

Im actually hoping this is a cracked intercooler if anything. ZZP intercooler or MPx intercooler needs to come out ASAP. lol. Then I dont have to go get a factory intercooler... Whats the odds of getting this warrantied? Stock airbox back in, just have the CIA catted downpipe and ZZP hotside charge pipe on. (I dont want to go through the hassle of putting the stock DP back on and well.... cant really put the stock charge pipe back on )

wow I just posted that rofl.

 

update:.... I am at a loss on this one.

Just did as BYT suggested in another forum.

did a 55mph pull in 3rd gear. Boost stayed a steady 12psi through whole pull. When I let off the gas where I should have heard a loud Psssshh, even with the stock airbox I know it makes a pssshh noise, I heard a loud crinK! noise. Then I went into power reduced mode = no boost.

My short term fuel trims went from -20.0 to +35.0 and stayed up around +28 to +30 for about a miles then dropped back down (probably when the reduced power mode kicked in.)

I now have two DTC's p2178 and p0101.

 

IdreamofYenko posted this in another thread: " If it were that you would be getting P2178 like I did which would fry a $70 O2 sensor like mine did. No idea on yours though."

So i'm guessing major boost look.

If you had a boost leak, that would explain not being able to hit full boost and would explain why you don't hear the pssshhh, because the pressure is ventred through a leak.
Don't run the car like that again until fixed

 

The noise that you and stamina have described sounds like the same noise that Moepwr's car was making. Check with BYT and ask him if he remembers it because he heard the noise and recommended Moepwr not tune but instead get it fixed.

Moepwr insisted on the tune and the motor popped within 2 months.

 

Yeah, the number one is on the left (passenger side) when you're looking at it from the front.

Yeah, there'd be the normal DI tick, the addition of another DI tick that comes and goes, and then there'd be a third deeper one that was between a tick and a thunk under the valve cover on what seemed to be the intake side of #1. I asked the dealer about it, and even looked into it with them back when the engine was apart and found nothing out of the ordinary.

 

Update:

Cars at the dealers now. They will get back to me around noon. THe guy that dropped me off at said "Yeah, and hopefully not to expensive.." after I said "Hopefully nothing major is wrong".

So it already sounds like they want to not take this up as warranty work. They didnt even look at the car/ under the hood yet.

 

PROBLEM FOUND. BOOST LEAK FOR SURE.

The dealer discovered something broken that needs to be replaced. Its been replaced on my car once before already. I'll leave it up to you guys to figure out what it could possibly be . I Think this is more common than a cracked intercooler or cracked hotside charge pipe to be honest. I could have sworn I checked this but i guess It was still "partially attached".

Not to mention my radiator fan fell off its brackets and was resting on my intake manifold. hint*hint*

 

That dam little plastic tube on the pipe from the air cleaner ?

if so, what do I win ?

At any rate, good it is a warranty - yea, you !!


Britt

 

maybe? Is that what its called? describe in more detail.

 

So... how does this answer the question about the sound you were hearing under the valve cover though?

 

Turbo inlet pipe for $ 800.00, please , Alex.

or, as described in threads discovered while searching, "the top half of the airbox w/ that little nipple that leads to the turbo".

That describes what I am thinking of pretty well - is that it ?

You tell me.

 

I doubt it based on his negative fuel trims. A vac leak post MAF causes positive fuel trims because more air is entering than the MAF is measuring. A boost leak causes negative fuel trims because already measured air is leaking out so less air is entering than the MAF is measuring.

Purge solenoid or boost solenoid cracked or line torn? Could be brake booster line as well.