VERY rough idle - boosting at idle
#1
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VERY rough idle - boosting at idle
So the car has been running a little funny lately. I couldn't quite put my finger on what but it just didn't seem quite right.
Tonight I drove my 35+ miles home from work and all was well. Then, I took my exit and as I was coming to a stop it died. It would not restart. I sat there for a bit trying.
I reset the ECU with my tuner and tried again. It didn't want to but I gave it some gas and it finally restarted so I could finish my couple more miles home. I had to keep giving it some gas to keep it going. Driving along it kinda sounds like a Subaru.
I get home where it doesn't matter if it dies but it doesn't die. This brings me to what it's doing.
It idles very very rough. It's very difficult to start and won't unless I give it gas. The other unusual thing is that while it's idling it's only at 2-3 inHg. It's boosting at idle.
No CEL as of yet.
Any ides?
Stuck waste gate?
mods - forge bpv : been on for about a month
Catted Downpipe / zzp : been on over a year
K&N intake : been on about two months
BSR PPC tune : had it for almost 70K miles now
Tonight I drove my 35+ miles home from work and all was well. Then, I took my exit and as I was coming to a stop it died. It would not restart. I sat there for a bit trying.
I reset the ECU with my tuner and tried again. It didn't want to but I gave it some gas and it finally restarted so I could finish my couple more miles home. I had to keep giving it some gas to keep it going. Driving along it kinda sounds like a Subaru.
I get home where it doesn't matter if it dies but it doesn't die. This brings me to what it's doing.
It idles very very rough. It's very difficult to start and won't unless I give it gas. The other unusual thing is that while it's idling it's only at 2-3 inHg. It's boosting at idle.
No CEL as of yet.
Any ides?
Stuck waste gate?
mods - forge bpv : been on for about a month
Catted Downpipe / zzp : been on over a year
K&N intake : been on about two months
BSR PPC tune : had it for almost 70K miles now
#2
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I don't think its boosting at idle. If it sounds like a subaru, you are missing a cylinder. That would also cause it to not pull a lot of vacuum. Pull your plugs and see if any are wet and check how they look.
#3
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Thread Starter
K... I pulled the plugs. First two (passenger side) were a bit worn off.
But the end plug on the drivers side is covered with oil. Peering into the head that cylinder appears to have a puddle of oil sitting in it.
Soooooo.... *sigh* is it looking like I'm another victim of the cracked piston ring?
EDIT: Doing some research.... sure sounds like ringlands to me. Damn....
If you all feel like it's the ringlands are toasted. What are your thoughts on forged pistons? Any drawbacks? Also, where can they be bought from? ZZP appears to be out of stock.
But the end plug on the drivers side is covered with oil. Peering into the head that cylinder appears to have a puddle of oil sitting in it.
Soooooo.... *sigh* is it looking like I'm another victim of the cracked piston ring?
EDIT: Doing some research.... sure sounds like ringlands to me. Damn....
If you all feel like it's the ringlands are toasted. What are your thoughts on forged pistons? Any drawbacks? Also, where can they be bought from? ZZP appears to be out of stock.
Last edited by Zander916; 04-01-2011 at 02:43 AM.
#5
Well the main problem you face with forged pistons is the mileage on the car. I saw that you had 70K+ miles on the car based on how long you've been running the BSR tune.
Over time, the pistons wear away the normally traveled length of the cylinder wall, but not the top/bottom. This creates a "necking" at the top and bottom that can snap the rings of a new set of pistons. If the car had fewer miles, this wouldn't be an issue at all.
Once you open up the engine, you can have a builder or somebody knowledgeable measure the cylinders for diameter and necking, and check the walls for scoring. You'll need to hone them at a minimum.
If the walls are too far out of spec, you'll need to bore the sleeves to the next size and buy the cooresponding size pistons, or replace the sleeves in order to start fresh.
Over time, the pistons wear away the normally traveled length of the cylinder wall, but not the top/bottom. This creates a "necking" at the top and bottom that can snap the rings of a new set of pistons. If the car had fewer miles, this wouldn't be an issue at all.
Once you open up the engine, you can have a builder or somebody knowledgeable measure the cylinders for diameter and necking, and check the walls for scoring. You'll need to hone them at a minimum.
If the walls are too far out of spec, you'll need to bore the sleeves to the next size and buy the cooresponding size pistons, or replace the sleeves in order to start fresh.
#6
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Thread Starter
My buddy who builds Mustangs and Subarus is gonna pop by next week and do a compression test. If its confirmed then its on to some forged pistons and a new clutch. There is a cheat way to replace the pistons but we'll just do it right and pop in a new clutch too.
All of course after we confirm what we think it is.
It sucks a LOT and it'll be a lot of money but it'll be better than before. Plus my buddy is super cool so he will hook me up proper.
All of course after we confirm what we think it is.
It sucks a LOT and it'll be a lot of money but it'll be better than before. Plus my buddy is super cool so he will hook me up proper.
#10
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I could dp the warranty thing..... well... try. But I'm looking at it like this. If it broke then I want to replace it with something better. My friend will set me up very nicely on the labor end and I fully trust him, not the dealership.
I don't mind sending him some work and some cash to do a great job. He has kids and a wife to take care of too so why not I guess.
I don't mind sending him some work and some cash to do a great job. He has kids and a wife to take care of too so why not I guess.
#11
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I could dp the warranty thing..... well... try. But I'm looking at it like this. If it broke then I want to replace it with something better. My friend will set me up very nicely on the labor end and I fully trust him, not the dealership.
I don't mind sending him some work and some cash to do a great job. He has kids and a wife to take care of too so why not I guess.
I don't mind sending him some work and some cash to do a great job. He has kids and a wife to take care of too so why not I guess.
#12
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Well if u have the money then do it up I guess!.. what caused the ringlad crack? This actually happened to a friend of mine with an srt4, car use to smoke like a bitch cylnder 4 sparkplug wold be caked in oil within a day.. he went the same route you are doin
Last edited by seeyaass; 04-01-2011 at 04:03 PM.
#13
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Thread Starter
Well, I think just time, heat, and pressure. I noticed the last few days it would idle at 18 inHg instead of 20. (poor vacuum I assume) although it ran fine otherwise. I killed it twice taking off which I thought was strange. I never do that.
Then I got on it last night and that must've been the straw that broke the camels back as they say. It ran fine for about 8 more miles or so. I took the exit and that was it for the car. It gave up the ghost then.
So in short, I don't think it was really one event that did it. But it was one event that finally pushed it over the edge.
Then I got on it last night and that must've been the straw that broke the camels back as they say. It ran fine for about 8 more miles or so. I took the exit and that was it for the car. It gave up the ghost then.
So in short, I don't think it was really one event that did it. But it was one event that finally pushed it over the edge.
#15
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Your kinda in the same situation as I was at the beginning of last year except I already had the wisecos sitting in my closet and I only had bout 16k on the odo. A timely thing because a few weeks later I popped a ringland. I assume it was a combo of my aggressive driving habits while being tuned that did my engine in. I applaude your wanting to replace them with something better. You won't be dissapointed. I also had two buddies that did the work while I helped a bit lol
Good luck man!
Good luck man!
#16
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Thread Starter
Your kinda in the same situation as I was at the beginning of last year except I already had the wisecos sitting in my closet and I only had bout 16k on the odo. A timely thing because a few weeks later I popped a ringland. I assume it was a combo of my aggressive driving habits while being tuned that did my engine in. I applaude your wanting to replace them with something better. You won't be dissapointed. I also had two buddies that did the work while I helped a bit lol
Good luck man!
Good luck man!
Does anyone know are people escaping without cylinder wall damage?
#17
Senior Member
Thanks man! I'm going to replace with better parts if they break whenever possible. I don't want to have to do this all over again later down the road. Did you notice side effects from having the forged in there? (positive or negative) Where your piston tops covered with carbon/soot?
Does anyone know are people escaping without cylinder wall damage?
Does anyone know are people escaping without cylinder wall damage?
#18
Thanks man! I'm going to replace with better parts if they break whenever possible. I don't want to have to do this all over again later down the road. Did you notice side effects from having the forged in there? (positive or negative) Where your piston tops covered with carbon/soot?
Does anyone know are people escaping without cylinder wall damage?
Does anyone know are people escaping without cylinder wall damage?
It's a trade-off. Forged pistons need to be up to temp before getting on it, but they're stronger.
When my #1 bit it, my sleeve was fine. Ironically my #3 showed a bit of scoring though. I've been toying with starting with a fresh set of forged pistons myself, but I think my mileage is way too high at this point to do that cheaply. I'd probably be looking at having to bore at a minimum, and then you're looking at possibly weakening the sleeves, so might as well resleeve... and that costs more money...
Last edited by Stamina; 04-05-2011 at 03:15 PM.
#19
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Thread Starter
Well, compression test done. It was VERY ugly.
128, 135, 148, 30 <---- yes that's right... 30
So my buddy is going to trailer it back to his place and pull the head to see what we're dealing with. He's concerned about bore damage as am I. There's just nothing I can do though until we figure that out except maybe weigh out my best and worst case scenarios and try to be prepared.
Assuming things are ok enough to save it.
I'm kind of ruling out that particular tunes are causing this. I mean, obvious some are worse than others and this and that but it seems to be happening across the board. We found a case of GMS1 and I think even a totally stock one has had this happen.
If it works out that I can I was thinking of trying to pull the trigger on an intercooler while I'm at it. (Just noticed that Treadstone has a kit for $300. It's looking awfully tempting since I'm blowing money anyway!) I was just curious if you guys thought a bit cooler air would help or what steps can be done. I'm thinking the air coming in being too hot could be a problem perhaps. (?) Or maybe just forged pistons is enough that I won't have to worry about this again.
EDIT: Just did a bit of my own research. It looks like cooler air will help against detonation so I'm hoping the damage starts turning out in my favor and I'll likely pick up that Treadstone kit.
128, 135, 148, 30 <---- yes that's right... 30
So my buddy is going to trailer it back to his place and pull the head to see what we're dealing with. He's concerned about bore damage as am I. There's just nothing I can do though until we figure that out except maybe weigh out my best and worst case scenarios and try to be prepared.
Assuming things are ok enough to save it.
I'm kind of ruling out that particular tunes are causing this. I mean, obvious some are worse than others and this and that but it seems to be happening across the board. We found a case of GMS1 and I think even a totally stock one has had this happen.
If it works out that I can I was thinking of trying to pull the trigger on an intercooler while I'm at it. (Just noticed that Treadstone has a kit for $300. It's looking awfully tempting since I'm blowing money anyway!) I was just curious if you guys thought a bit cooler air would help or what steps can be done. I'm thinking the air coming in being too hot could be a problem perhaps. (?) Or maybe just forged pistons is enough that I won't have to worry about this again.
EDIT: Just did a bit of my own research. It looks like cooler air will help against detonation so I'm hoping the damage starts turning out in my favor and I'll likely pick up that Treadstone kit.
Last edited by Zander916; 04-06-2011 at 04:54 AM.
#20
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Thanks man! I'm going to replace with better parts if they break whenever possible. I don't want to have to do this all over again later down the road. Did you notice side effects from having the forged in there? (positive or negative) Where your piston tops covered with carbon/soot?
Does anyone know are people escaping without cylinder wall damage?
Does anyone know are people escaping without cylinder wall damage?
I was very lucky that it didnt come apart in the cylinder.
Keep us posted man and good luck!
#21
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Well this is what was found in Cylinder 4. Another guy we both know who owns a machine shop is gonna stop out Monday to inspect it and give us his opinion.
#23
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#24
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Thread Starter
PISTON #2 - There's the crack he's point at and then another one further to the right. That whole piece between was just sort of floating between the rings.
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Last edited by Zander916; 04-18-2011 at 05:18 AM.