I've seen Cmiller has gone 117. But in reality if i plan on selling my z28 i would like to trap above 120 to keep my interest in the cobalt without the Z28 in the garage.

It appears that a stock turbo wont get me there. But this is my DD so i dont want to really have the need to go huge on the turbo. I dont plan on taking the car to the track that often but i would like to run with a few buddies in their Fbodies/cobras when the need arises.

As soon as i take delivery of the new SS/TC i will swipe the check card for the following:

- Tune
- intake
- Catless DP
- Exhaust
- Short shifter
- Pedders
- wheels(unknown brand/style)
- upper/lower CP
- cooling mods

I have considered stealing most of my nitrous system for a small shot on the car. Although I'd rather not spray the car mostly because i only have 15lb bottles and i cant think of a great place to mount the bottle out of the way, unless i remove the spare. Also id like to keep the car in one piece for a while.

I am not willing to do zzp cams just yet although i will not deny how much they appeal to me. I <3 cams lol.

 

zzp kit with the s252 or s256 should get you there with supporting mods and slicks of course

 

What does it take?........A really fast car

 

well, in a completley gutted 1996 Civic EK making 382whp, i trapped 117. on stock steelies.


id say youd need at least 400 and a good set of slicks.

 

as i tell everyone. start with suspension and wheels/tires(slicks) and get your ET as low as you can before you start adding things to up the horsepower. you'll be surprised at how much it doesn't take.

 

That civic likely was <2500 lbs with driver though.

 

A 50 shot plus E Blend will get you around 120mph mark.

 

Shut ur face and go run your car.!!!

 

just waitin on a lifter.

 

Keep your camaro make it faster.

 

ZZP turbo kit on E85 making around 16-20lbs should net you a 120-125 trap, and that'll still be a good DD.

 

Should of got some slicks, thats HP is good for mid 10's @ ~130mph in a hatch.


Finally someone who actually "gets it".

Good luck getting the rest of the site to realize that the answer to running better times isn't always more power.

 

on a stock turbo with every possible bolt on and track setup can go 120 I think. 125 is doable on a s252 zzp kit.

 

Suspension and tire is always necessary for good track times. There is a reason my car has every suspension piece known to man.

Most of my racing is not done on a track though

 

It sounds like you want the best of both worlds.

Stock like setup for street and the ability to tear it up at the track ...


The EFR would be your best bet. Closet to stock spool and more manageable in every day driving ...

You would probably have to do the cam as well as all the other stuff you want to do unless you want to run another rail and piggy back fuel controller. At least ZZP is saying that they are getting the fuel figured out although they are using the upgraded cam with a bigger lobe for the HPFP.

At least thats what I understand ..


I am in your same boat some what. I got back up vehicles for shop time so the DD thing isn't as necessary but it's an old Tahoe thats no fun and a beast to drive so the Balt still needs reliability.


In that sense I am just waiting for the BW EFR release , stock mani, BPV is on the same unit , intakes should bolt right on too. Unless the EFR sits lower.

 

0 traction and/or bicycle tires...

Only a Cobalt forum would aim for a trap speed and not E.T.

You may trap over 120, but you probably won't come close to cmiller's time. So in the end, you're still slow.

 

i wish people realized this kinda stuff. We wouldnt have all these bolted and tuned TC's trying to get out of the 14's still. Then calling BS on the LSJ's that run low 13's with very little engine mods.

 

bingo... 0 traction will get you the trap speeds you want. hence why i racn a damn 13.6 at 117 in my hatch. ZERO traction. **** i was still spinning through the traps when i did that.

I have a couple goals. id love low 13's on street tires with 120+ traps

and id like mid 10's with the slicks.

 

You need to keep reading, and not going off on your rant. Honestly, if i want a freaking ET i can use my RWD car. Im not worried in the least about an ET because its not my track car, which i stated. I merely want to be able to play with a few friends from rolls, which again was in the text. Also, you want to talk about trap speed and ET when i fully agreed with needing a full suspension, hence the reason my car that i race does have one.

If i need an ET there is a S60 and ET streets for that behind an LS1. Please understand the goals of the car before you begin talking to me about ET. Its about as ignorant as talking to me about braking capability when i am asking what it would take to reach 1.00g lateral grip. I am not confused on what i want, I have no intention of taking this car to the 1/4 mile aside from possibly a few runs one night to click off some times for testing.


Not necessarily, i cant hit traps on street tires that i can on a ET street on the z28. There is so much myth involved with how much spinning increases your trap speed. My car would not trap anywhere near what i can on a real tire with a real launch as to compared when i have the 19x10s with street tires on. Just not gonna happen, it requires so much feathering of the throttle, lost traction(which is lost power) that its not even the same car on street tires compared to on a slick.

Now i know the response you will come back with because you have read a few things on the internet about spinning increases trap speed. Where this is true is compared to say a full slick vs a drag radial. If you can still some what hook and go you will trap slightly higher due to the less rolling resistance on the drag radial compared to the slick.

I will also offer you this as i know you are still on the spinning = higher trap speed bandwagon. So you are telling me my 135 trap car will magically trap 145 if i just toss on some donuts on the rear? I would be spinning correct? But no, there is a loss in power that i cant put down and i cant create the same ET or the same MPH. Again, there is some truth to what you said but its not the end all be all.

 

Yes and no. maybe the trap speed was confusing my intentions. I merely want to run with guys i know that trap 120-125, from a roll on the street. I want the car reliable(as much as a modded car can be) more than i want the trap speed or ET(again, i hate to break hearts here but i am not buying a DD for a good ET i have a car thats much more suited to this already).

I appreciate your response and input.

Just for clarification:

-Dont care about WHP
-Dont care about ET
-Care about reliable and street friendly
-Care about having some fun on the street with a few friends that trap 120+ in the 1/4.
-Care about Gas mileage over 25mpg

Thats pretty much it lol. I dont have retarded goals for this car and dont want to break records or anything else, i just want to have a lot of fun with a car that i enjoy.

 

Those who think spinning = higher mph crack me up. Never once in my lifetime has a spinning pass out trapped a decent non bogging launch in any of my 500+ timeslips. When you spin you are wasting time and ground to accelerate down the 1/4. Why do the fastest (et wise) stock cobalts have the highest mph?

 

Thank you slowstang.

 

Like I said, a simple ZZP kit on low boost will get you where you want to play with your friends from rolls. And you don't have to run enough boost to worry about internals going boom. You can if you want to smoke your friends once in a while and still be safe though.

 

swap the brembos to lsj brakes i think you can squeeze 16s on those. that way you can run slicks with more sidewall, air bag your rear and hang on tight, its cheap ( find an lsj guy i bet he would pay you to help you do the swap ) and you'll be alot quicker out of the hole. use that as a starting point and adjust HP needs from there

 

Thanks! I've looked at their kits and I like zzp parts.

Also I won't ne getting rid of the brembos lol.