What is a good tire combo for 2009 lnf cobalt 440 tq lol
NT05Rs on 17" wheels, I'm currently running 275/40 17s. You will still spin but gain traction by pedaling through 2nd. The only way to get better traction is full on slicks, lsj brakes, footballs in the rear end
Last edited by FasterIsBetter; Apr 10, 2013 at 02:27 AM.
spinning is winning
gripping is breaking...just saying....lol
re-11 like said above is an amazing tire though, best ever made in my opinion, and about 3 lbs lighter per tire than star specs.
245 - 35 - 18 on stock t/c wheels is an awesome choice in size btw.
gripping is breaking...just saying....lol
re-11 like said above is an amazing tire though, best ever made in my opinion, and about 3 lbs lighter per tire than star specs.
245 - 35 - 18 on stock t/c wheels is an awesome choice in size btw.
This. I am running a Nitto NT555R in a 275/40/17 with zero wheel spin in 2nd and very manageable wheel spin in first. I don't have as much power as you, but this is probably your best bet.
also something that may help traction a bit, Bwoody traction bars......havent heard of anyone using them yet, but my buddy with a srt4 says they just plant them into the ground and spins lol. so if you got a sticky tire you should be good to go
damn, we can fit 275s? lol. i need to find some wheels and lsj brakes. and then get a nice tire like this.
also something that may help traction a bit, Bwoody traction bars......havent heard of anyone using them yet, but my buddy with a srt4 says they just plant them into the ground and spins lol. so if you got a sticky tire you should be good to go
also something that may help traction a bit, Bwoody traction bars......havent heard of anyone using them yet, but my buddy with a srt4 says they just plant them into the ground and spins lol. so if you got a sticky tire you should be good to go
Yup, I'm even lowered an inch. Doesn't rub even at full lock but then again I don't have my fender liners in atm. I looked at the b woody traction bars. Wondering if drilling a hole in the control arm will reduce its strength marginally. That's the way you mount them. But if we ran the solid control arm bushings we technically wouldn't need the traction bars nearly as much. The biggest thing I'm looking at though is price. The traction bars only cost $150. The solid control arm bushings cost around $500-600. Also I didn't need lsj brakes. The right size 17 will clear the brembos. I have over a quarter inch gap between my wheel and my caliper.
I didn't need a spacer. I think my wheels were 45mm offset. I was talking about the delrin bushings. That's why they're solid, lol. Delrin doesn't give but its self lubricating. I know more sidewall = more flex and traction, I just didn't want to get rid of the brembos and sacrifice my stopping power. I use nothing but factory brembo pads as well. The reason why I was worried about strength was from what I understand you drill through the webbing in the control arm. I was scared that could cause a fracture when you're putting down 500hp.
i havent seen those bushings. link? and im not getting rid of the brembos for good lol. just when i want to get serious at the track lol. which will be like two or three times a year to put someone in their place B-) and yes, you do drill through the webbing area, but as long as you make sure the hole is nice and clean, you wont have to worry about any cracks in my opinion.
Here's the leading CA bushing. I guess Ottp stopped selling the spherical delrin bushing but I believe Powell sells something similar.
http://www.ottperformance.com/store/...ng-41p1224.htm
http://www.ottperformance.com/store/...ng-41p1224.htm



