X2. Traction is an issue, but I would rather burn up front tires than a very expensive to replace clutch.

 

and alot of the high powered people are still on the stock clutch

 

Yep give it some time though and you will see more clutches breaking. Most people have few miles on their TCs right now.

 

I don't think so. His focus on cars dwindled away and he's since just become a man *****, lol.

 

^^^ lol gotcha



as for the stock clutch, i've been tuned since i've had maybe 4 or 5k on my car, now it's got almost 10, np's at all

 

gut it and build the frame to make it rwd v-8

 

there is a turbo manifold that is made by synapse.... you could probably get that... also you could get clutch flywheel adn some motor mounts... just ideas....

 

5K miles is not much. If you drive hard all the time be prepared to replace your cluch after a few years. You will get good mileage and wear if you are nice to it most of the time.

 

i'm nice to it most of the time

 

The higher the K number the lower the light output, if you want pure white light go with 4300k, if your want barney purple lights go with 10000k.

 

10000k is not purple... 12000k is purple...

 

i have 8k in my stockers and they are fine i can see alot more than the stock bulb...people say they blind you and this and that, but ive had no probs with mine...ive had bad experiences with aftermarket headlights so im not going to buy those or pay 600+ for retro's...ide say go wit some springs mabe sway bars or something....or the K04+ upgrade

 

Your right, 10000k is blue. Maybe if you add a red light somewhere and a siren to your car you can run through red lights on the intersection.

Retrofits use oem projectors/ballasts/bulbs from acura's/infiniti's/audi's, your cheap hid kit will die quicker than any retrofit out there.

 

woah guy... what's w/ the **** talk?

 

Well, you want more perfprmance..... Here are some other things to look into..... Fuel pump/high flow filter, Coil pack springs, and re-tune....... You can always squeez more out of it.

 

im surprised no one has recomended a waistgate so i would go with that, coilovers, clutch, and drag radials...in that order

 

so... how hard is the compressor wheel upgrade? is it worth it? what exactly is it? (yeah i saw the thread, but it was whored out... anyone wanna summarize it for me?

 

thats why i ordered a spec stage 3

 

Stage 3+ or stage 3? I like the 3+ becasue it is a full disc clutch not a puck style so more holding area and hopefully smoother engagement.

 

Stock appearing, but flows 25% better (32lbs/min vs. 40lbs/min). On the cobalt ss, there are four bolts that connect the turbo outlet to a cast iron elbow that than connects to the downpipe, of the 4, 3 are hard to get at. I could not get them laying down on my back with just jacks. But when i had it professionally installed they used a lift and got the bolts off without any extensions. Ive had mined tuned and am making 301HP and 310TQ. Low considering some people with only a tune make more than this, but i have a HP Tuners module in the mail from Dejon and am going to work with Bald Turbo Freak to get a lot better numbers, hopefully. In an ideal situation and dyno, numbers should read 320-330HP and 350-360TQ

 

who tuned yall to get 300+ hp?

 

I had a custom dyno tune done by precision motorsports here in Florida. I am on 93 octane and revised timing tables. My car made 289 whp and 311 wtrq with the stock timing tables, and 307 whp and 330 wrtq with changes.

 

and they use the oem housing u can go ahead and pay all that money for that im good with what i got thanks.

 

psykosteveo can get you over the 300 Hp with your mods.

 

Its not **** talk, why do you want blue lights on your car? Isn't the point of hid's to have more light? Those high K lights will give you less output than 4300k ones and will make you an easy target for cops to pick on, they hate people who have these blinding hid kits on their cars.