What is stock clutch torque capacity?
 

I'm looking for an aftermarket clutch in preparation for upcoming ZFR install, I see the manufactures throwing around torque numbers, is it published anywhere what the stock clutch is just out of curiosity? Anyone have a good recommendation for a spirited daily driver, hoping for around 400-420 hp?

Many are getting the KY stage 3 for your desription of build/daily driver.

I am not sure if GM has ever put a factory rating on their clutch.

probably around 320wtq.
most on here have 360-400wtq and they need a new clutch...

Those numbers seem realistic. :twothumbs

I'd say around 320 - 350 wtq.

I've been holding 340ft lbs for 6+ months just fine. I get on it often too but I do have a ky stage 3 sitting in my closet waiting for me stock clutch to give:)

Holding 439lbs on stock clutch for over a year now. Maybe the sedans have a stronger clutch?

mine holds anything the BNR can dish out.

right when i got tuned by term, mine took a shit, but ive been still driving on it for over a year now...lol...slips in every flippin gear except 5th, and you can smell it most of the time i drive...haha..i need to install my stage 3 ky clutch too.

I think you have the GMPP clutch which I've read and heard that its different than the stock SS Turbo clutch.

My stocker started crying right around 360 ft/lbs.

388ft/lbs daily driven all but winter, for two years, with multiple track visits .

My BNR + E47 lasted maybe 2 months :lol:

Been Running the KY Stg 3 Clutch for over a 1yr without a problem :twothumbs

Mine is fine at around 350wtq. I know Nathan's has about 420wtq on the stock clutch or something crazy like that, but that was a pretty rare exception. Basically, if you want to do a turbo swap... you're going to need a new clutch. On stock turbo, the stock clutch can handle the power fine, might run into trouble if you're tuned for E though.

This is on the assumption that you don't suck at driving and you aren't going WOT at like 2k RPMs lol.

I'm willing to bet with a ZFR it won't last long. It's a big power jump over stock. I would suggest you get one. It's always better to be safe than sorry!

I agree. If you plan to upgrade the turbo. Get you a Clutch lol.

"I'm looking for an aftermarket clutch in preparation for upcoming ZFR install"

Was never any thought of not doing it, just looking for some insight as to how to compare whats out there to what I have now. Seems most using the stage 3, which was one of the ones I was considering, so thanks guys!

glad you got some insights on them lol

Stock clutch is able to handle well over 350 ft/lbs of torque so long as the clutch hasn't been abused with piss poor driving habits. Another obstacle with regard to the stock turbo is limiting the mid-range spike that can really hammer the clutch.

I would be willing to bet that the stock clutch would actually fair pretty well with a turbo that shifts the torque curve a bit. With a turbo like the ZFR, you would definitely want to ramp the boost via the WGDC, MALT or a combination of the two just due to the simple fact that it still has the ability to generate the same "spike" that the stocker is capable of and then some.

There are people out there with the stock clutch holding upgraded turbos. Even a few with EFR turbos :cool:

The #1 reason I would use a stock clutch, regardless of the setup, would be the fact that it will give before the trans does. Obviously if you're planning to push the envelope, then the stocker isn't for you but I feel it's a very strong clutch with everything I've experienced.

good post. To add: the KY and Spec clutches I have seen have the same Sachs pressure plate as stock LNF.

so....

As far as I know, the PP for the KY is modified. It definitely has a higher clamping force than a stocker.

GREAT POST! X2.:cssNET:

not to be a db but did you measure it? the friction disc is very different. and the thickness I suspect is as well. I think there is a lot of comment but not a lot of actual data to support things other than the good old butt dyno.

replacing an old clutch with a new clutch, for sure even bone stock will "feel thats clamping better". Its new.

I look at the stuff we install for folks, and sometimes I measure it sometimes I dont. When I see "sachs" stamped on the plate, and the part number ground off, and the cover painted, well, I just wonder.

At the end of the day it doesnt matter to me. Loki who tracks his car and drives it like a demon, had me install a new OEM clutch in his Trifecta/Hahn/Pwerkes/SSkev track beater THREE years ago. He loves it. Still good.

Revolution in Ottawa had me install a KY clutch this spring. He loves it. Still good.

I put a Spec in a Redline Sky this summer what a pita and that is with the additional Pwerkes spacer.

All the GMPP we install in LSJ , are great but I have had one come back, the kid spun it to 100 mph on a snow covered/dry patch road while travelling at about 30 mph and ripped the center section out of it. Warranty and a driver mod.

I have seen an Exedy Hypersingle ripped to shreds: dyno run operator did not declutch on the over run. Warranty and an operator mod.

I run GMMP, its awesome. Imagine its a Saab 2.0 turbo clutch, and the guys with those cars put in Spec and then fill the Saab forums with complaints

GMPP is an LNF Sachs pressure plate with a slightly different Saab clutch disc, same lining different spring orientation.

As I understand it, James helped KY Clutch make/test the various clutches for the Cobalt. He stated the pressure plate was modified.

Thanks for the clarification. I knew there was some difference but it doesn't sound like that difference is significant enough to change the strength or holding capacity over the stock LNF one.

I guess we can see a trend that the super early spiking of the stock turbo is probably what does the stock one in. I am on a KY 6 puck that has NEVER slipped once after being broken in.

2nd gear was the first to go in my stocker at 38k miles. Now, like i said before, it slips in every gear other than 5th and i am on a stock turbo, and i have great driving habits. the clutch broke/glazed after less than 100 miles of being tuned and now it has 10k miles on it after it started slipping, which is why its completely shot now...haha
point of the story, i dont see how great the stock clutch is, because it didnt last on a low mileage car on the stock turbo...just sayin:)