alright...i did a little bit of searching and couldn't find anyone complaining about the same problem im having so here it is.

when i start the car up and drive it immidiately following start up (letting it warm up a little) when i push the gas, even just a little. i can hear the turbo spool and my boost gauge can go all the way up to full boost (22psi) i usually don't let it get that high though. anyway, my rpms don't go up at all and my car doesn't go any faster. it almost acts like the clutch is slipping, but my rpms really don't move. my exhaust note gets a lot louder as well. i don't get any flutter or anything coming out of it. just builds boost and doesn't go anywhere. this happens until i get a little ways down the road and then it stops and drives normal.

cliff notes- when i start the car and drive immidiately. turbo spools and builds full boost but rpms don't go up and car goes no where.

please help me out.

the only options i have been given is that its because the air outside is colder causing the air to be more dense which causes my turbo to spool. since im not giving it any more fuel to go with the air, the car doesn't go anywhere. sounds reasonable...but im just not sure if that is my issue.

 

im so confused at what your trying to get at.

 

honestly i wouldnt no but it could be cause of the tune. iv been told that the car runs different from summer/winter with a tune cause of the air of course. other than that i wouldnt no of anything

 

let car warm up for longer? im confused i dont have this happen eather. the rpms are messured off the trans right, lol i dont know that my self, if it it id most likely think clutch is gone. my base models clutch whent but it read 5k while trying to do 60 mph

 

Very bizzare. I wonder if the bypass valve isn't *opening*..allowing vacuum to develop?
Still...for 22 lbs you would need enough exhaust gas to drive it to full boost. Also, I don't get the fact your RPMS don't rise with the boost? Weird...

 

Rpm's off the trans??? lol. I'm pretty sure the crank sensor does that 8)

It's weird thou ...... could the wastegate be sticking ? It's hard to understand how it could build 22psi at low rpm

 

Turn off antilag?

 

it is very wierd. i like to consider myself pretty mechanically inclined but this has got me at a loss. the rpms don't really move at all...maybe 200 rpms at the most. i agree that its really wierd that the rpms aren't going up when the boost is going all the way up. how can it be building full boost when im barely giving it any gas. im soo confused with this.

i would take a video but i have no way to post it up...any suggestions?

 

theres this thing called youtube.

 

Hmmm thats weird.

mccullj- Is the cat warmup cycle removed with your tune? I know mine takes a while to warm up now that the cat warmup is removed. Just be patient with the warmup. Its probably just cause your car isn't warm yet. I would think that maybe when you are hitting the gas the motor isn't getting a complete burn and the mix is still burning when it hits the turbo which would cause it to spool faster, almost like a quasi cat warmup? I don't know for sure but thats as far as my logic takes me.

 

I thought of the wastegate sticking too, but it's supposed to be shut at that time and only opens under boost conditions. Something is initiating the boost, that's why I was thinking the bypass valve being stuck shut. Still, the RPMS should register.

 

yeah...thanks smart ass. i already did that. if you can find one that is doing what my car is doing then i will apologize. good luck though, because i can't find one.

i went to try to take a video but its not doing it right now...figures...

 

He doesn't have cat warm up no longer, his purge valve is bad, and I've seen whQt he's talking about. When,the car is cold and he takes off regular the car builds boost while slighlty throttle and rpms don't move hardly, I told him he needs retuned but needs to replace his plugs and his valve. He knows he needs retuned, I am just waiting. The only thing I could come from his issue is the colder air.. on his tq based air flow map I hae it set basicaly stockish then moving up in higher rpm so that part is fine so he does need retuned. When I tuned him before his maf was barely off like 1 in some spots, no kr . Iats were 70ish so yeah....

 

Hwy mccullj call me

 

i really do need to replace that ****. i just didn't really think that is what would be causing it. im just gonna have to fork out the money and buy the ****.

james- you are gonna stay on my ass until i do it aren't you?

 

Yes sir, but do I remind you it does need retuning.

 

Is this the same as the Bypass Valve I pointed out? The one attatched to Turbo Inlet to recirculate boost?
Or is it the one that regulates the vaccum to the bypass valve itself?

 

The purge valve has to do with the fuel system if I remember correctly.

 

No purge valve is part of the evap system...

 

HAHA my bad. Doesn't it vent the fuel tank or something though?

 

no. this mounts on the front of the intake.

im pretty sure thats exactly what it does. i know since its been bad, when i fuel up, my car doesn't want to start. it just cranks and cranks.

 

The problem you are experiencing has nothing to do with your purge valve. I've experienced the same problem.
My theory is either A. the gas you are putting into the motor isn't getting a complete burn. B. knock retard because of the cold engine or C. The Car is still in Open-loop due to the cat warmup.

Have you logged it at all? When I leave for work tomorrow I'll try and replicate the problem.

Easy fix for you.... Let the car warm up longer or go easy on it. Revving a cold engine is bad juju

 

first, dont do that to ur car, u will wreck it. second if i do that on cold start like that mine has very little power as well, or i misfire majorly. dont rape on ur car till the oil is at least 160 degrees. ur car with thank u for it.

i think its ur ecu attempting to save ur motor from ******* moves like that

 

I've already told him this ^^^^ as I'm his tuner., he does need retuned for winter. When I logged.him last.he.had no kr so yeah thanks tho guys.

 

You all are talking about two different things:

1) Evap Purge Valve/Solenoid: A solenoid/electrically controlled valve that allows gas fumes collected from the gas tank be sucked into the engine for smog emissions reduction. It is mounted on the front-middle of the intake manifold and has a single black pipe going to it from the driver's side and a two-wire electrical harness going to it on the top so the ECU can control it.

2) Bypass/Blow Off Valve: A valve that recirculates or blows off air pressure built up in the charge pipes between the throttle plate and the turbo to keep turbo surge or backspin from occuring. This valve is really a solenoid (electrically controlled valve) in our case as the ECU has some control over it if need-be. It's mounted on the top-left of the intake manifold and has three rubber vacuum tubes and an electrical connector hooked up to it on the sides.

The tubes run to the turbo, cold side charge pipe, and intake manifold. When you shift, the throttle plate closes and the air in the intake manifold is then at a lower pressure than the air suddenly backed up in the charge pipes. This condition causes the valve to open and the air in the charge pipes runs back to the turbo. When the pressures equalize again, the valve closes, and the airflow through from the turbo to the intake manifold resumes as normal.

If anything, #2 could be to blame. #1 wouldn't have anything to do with this particular issue.