Hello All,

I have an 05 SS w/ some mods (read sig) its been running perfectly for the past 2 years (43k Miles). I’ve only had in the dealer once for a bad crank sensor. Lately the car has been giving me a lot of crap... ie not being to keep and idle, limp mode, super charger won't "idle" correctly. Details

Limp Mode
I'll be driving around normally (maybe hitting 2-5 PSI boost) and then all of sudden bam "engine power reduced" then the supercharger tach goes to -20 and stays there (it won't move) the car at idle will miss fire... I have to turn it off for ~5 minutes then all is good.

Bad Idle
Sometimes when I start my car the RMP tach will go up and down for 1-3k RPM the boost gauge stays at around -10 PSI...

No Gas
When driving say in the 3rd gear and let of the gas the boost gauge would normally say -23 PSI now it goes to -10 and the car doesn't fell the same (hard to explain) it doesn't have the supercharger resistance to slow it down, it just coasts...

Boost Gauge
When I click the keys to start position it use to set the boost gauge to zero now it sets it to +5 psi?

Engine Light
Throwing codes P0069 & P0068 which deal with the MAF... Normally after going into limp mode, sometimes after an hour of driving or letting the car sit over night the light will clear.

Conclusion
After taking it to the dealer they suggested it was my K&N intake causing it and since the code at the time was triggered @ 101 MPH they couldn’t replicate it. Also I’m out of warranty so it was more of a favor from my account manager there… (No charge to look @ it and change the oil)

My theory is that my K&N oil’d my MAF and it needs to be replaced... but i'm not 100%.... This seems a little more severe any suggestions/ recommendations are much appreciated.


Thx.
-Brad

 

buy some maf cleaner.
or electrical cleaner.
spray the crap out of your maf sensor.....and give that a shot.
from what i understand these maf sensors usually either work, or they dont.
so if it failed youd really know about it, so its likely just coated with some filter oil.

try it out. I clean my sensor usually every oil change

 

Score, I picked some up last time i was at autozone. They didn't have tru MAF cleaner it was like STP air filter cleaner but it said it doesn't hurt the MAF... I'll give it a shot tomorrow.

Thx!
-Brad

 

I have a K&N filter on my car as well, after about a thousand miles all of a sudden I got CEL's, started running weird, checked the code, I had like 4 as it turns out, most dealt with the intake. Me and my bro got some carb cleaner, took the filter off, sprayed down the MAF, cars run perfectly since (almost two thousand miles now).

 

it is generally suggested not to use carb cleaner on maf sensors, something about highly delicate electrical components vs. bad ****, kick ass cleaner.

 

When I clean my MAF my car runs 100% better.
It cured the poor running Cobalt syndrom for me.

Clean it up and see what happens. Any autoparts store carries MAF cleaner.
You should clean it every 15,000 miles or so.

 

yep. carb cleaner is too harsh. use carb cleaner on it and you may have a whole new set of problems. get crc maf cleaner. i got it at napa for like $7

 

it may be your throttle position sensor.

 

I would say you have 2 different problems here.

1. The limp mode, bad idle and CEL sound like they are all probably coming from the same problem. It maybe a bad MAF, but it could also be caused by a clogged cat or even something else.

2. The boost gauge reading +5 when you turn the key to the on position means that the boost gauge is not zeroing out. All the readings on the boost gauge are going to be off by at least +5, or the boost gauge may also be malfunctioning completely and not reading correctly at all. You will more then likely have to replace the boost gauge. You can try unhooking the battery for a few minutes and hooking it back up and see if that corrects it, but you will more then likely have to replace the gauge.

Let us know if it helps at all after you clean the MAF.

 

So the codes you have indicate a bad SCIP or BARO sensor. Or at least an error correlating them. I doubt at this point it's a MAF problem, a MAF problem would through a MAF code.

P068 is a correlation code. This means the MAF/MAP/SCIP/BARO don't see the same air levels.

P069 is a Supercharger inlet pressure/Baro correlation error.

Since you have a +5 PSI when you start the car, I would be wonder if the BARO isn't the issue. I hope the dealer didn't tell you it was a MAF issue cause the codes don't point in that direction.

P0068 Throttle Body Airflow Performance -PCM
P0069 Supercharger Inlet Pressure (SCIP) - Barometric (BARO) Pressure Correlation -PCM

 

Very good information, thx. I'm going to take it back to the dealer on monday. I changed on out my filter and cleaned the MAF with STP air intake cleaner. Now i am throwing a new code when romping on the car (WOT) P0121 and of course the other 2 (P0069 & P0068). not sure what else i can without taking it back to the dealer & paying an arm & leg....

Any more ideas?

thx.
-Brad

 

did you disconnect your battery after cleaning the MAF? P0121 i think is a lean code. check for fouled spark plugs, and as was aforementioned, replace your boost guage -- you're not the first one to have that problem. your limp mode could be throttle position sensor, or crankshaft pos. sensor again. also, make sure you get all the latest re-flashes for the car when ur at the dealer.

 

You're thinking of p0171...p0121 is TP Sensor Circuit Insufficient Activity...I think Zimmer may be right

If you don't feel like paying for it, put the stock intake back on and take it to another dealership...Although I would not do that as it's warranty fraud....

 

For those of you that asked for an update...

Conclusion
I dropped the car off to the dealership yesterday basically saying "Do what you gotta do & let me know" they came to the conclusion the MAF was bad and replaced it out. They also said there was a shitload of oil in the intake & on the MAF. So it came down to something so simple... BAD MAF sensor... most likely caused by the oil’d CAI’s.

I’ve gone through 3 CAI’s (1 injen (rubbed a hole through it) 1 K&N (same thing happened), 1 new injen (fits perfectly by the way) So I don't want this to happen again what would you suggest? Currently I have a new injen CAI w/ an oil'd filter (not even 2 weeks old)... is it possible to have a dry filter on a injen?

I'm open to suggestions I don't want this to happen again.

Chevy warranty FTW!!

Thx.
-Brad

 

yea same **** happen 2 me, but i was at 145mph or someshit like that at like 17psi

 

i dont understand , what was wrong with your warranty?????

 

nothing at all... Chevy was pretty legit on this one... replaced the MAF even though i had a after market CAI... so at this point i say Chevy warranty FTW!!

And I'm on extended warranty pays to be legit to the people working on your car...

 

GET RID OF THE OILED FILTER, and get yourself a AEM dryflow (appropriate size) and that would be the end of you oil in the intake nightmares.

 

That's exactly what I was thinking... from my research the 2.0 ss/sc injen intake comes with the following filter

X-1013-BR
High Performance Air Filter - 2.75'' Black Filter 6'' Base/ 5'' Tall/ 5'' Top

From looking @ AEM's website the closet I found was
Part #: 21-202DK
2.75" Dryflow air filter. Short neck. 5" element.

Anyone know if this will work?

Thx
-Brad


EDIT
From search'b the forum i found a thread regarding this and someone purchased the "21-202DK" AEM filter and i fit on the Injen CAI... Dyflow FTW!!
Cheapest I've found so far is 46 bucks shipped on ebay... any know a cheaper place to get one?

 

yeah honestly 3/4 of those problems are most likey from having an oiled filter, get rid of that ****.

 

Ive had an injen intake on my car for over 25k miles... replaced the filter once after about 10k miles in which I also bagged it with a hydroshield for some added protection.

Had the p1071 until I got s2...

Haven't had a problem since.

-Rich

 

Yeah boss that will work fine, now get that thing and get the oiled pos out of there.

 

Not to say your wrong, but could the oil be from the crank-case ventilation?

My bro's SS/SC and mine both have K&N oiled filters on them. We've had to clean my brothers MAF 2 times now (using carb cleaner, oops). His car runs great but every 1000 miles or so it looses power, throws a couple codes (don't remember what they were) and in general runs like crap. The 2nd time I failed his MAF with HPT and the car ran pretty much perfect. Cleaned the MAF and everything was peachy. My car has had the K&N on for a little less then 1000 miles so far and I havn't had any problems with it...yet. When we put the 2.8 on my car there was some oil in my intake (stock, before the K&N). The oil was right by the crank-case ventilation line, so I just assumed that's where it was from. The other problem I had with my bro's car once was that I accidently disconnected the intake pipe after the MAF. Long story short the car ran like **** till I fixed that, then it was fine again hehe.

Just some more to think about .