You all know significantly more than me about this engine, although I am pretty well read on the build book.

I'm building a stunt plane.

Here's what want....300hp, 250ft-lbs of torque, and i want to have it before 6 grand. I have the engine, I have the money, tell me what I need to do it and how, and keep in mind I have no exhaust restrictions since it's going on an airplane. And NO TURBOS, I'm keeping the supercharger, because it makes throttle response on a plane GODLY.

Only reply if you are an extremely experienced with this engine and know it's EXACT limitations and EXACTLY what you're doing, I don't want to fall out of the sky.

I also have to be able to get oil into the engine in a zero-G environment, as well as negative-G.
If you can answer this above oil question, do so, if not, it's ok i have aircraft mechanics on my side as well.

OH and keep in mind that since this engine will be in an aircraft, even though I can still run it on 91 octane here in california i WILL have daily access to 100 octane aircraft fuel, so keep that in mind.

 

best thing to do would be to head over to the gm tunersorce website and read the ecotec build books.

300hp is not an issue however the torque and rpm limitation (6000) makes it harder. its a 2.0l engine, it needs to rev to make that kinda power. on a street car id expect for what you want to be reving to 7500. what you may want to consider is to start with a 2.4l crank for the long stroke, eagle rods and custom pistons with around 10:1 compression. the long stroke is going to give you more torque and bring the powerband down. id then port an lsj head, stainless or inconel valves, supertec or bates valvespring/retainer kit and a set of custom ground cams for the application. for what you are doing a dry sump oiling system is pretty much a must. the big limitation is going to be the supercharger, the little eaton is just at its limits at 300hp. either get it ported and run a 2.5" pulley or wait for the eaton tvs to come out.

 

Your gonna put a gm motor in a plane?I hope you have plenty of parachutes with you on board for when it stalls out on you.

 

the hell 300 hp is not an issue...
if you really want to talk to some gurus hit up blown4banger and victoryredss both are building their engines insane and will have some pointers for you
here ill link you to both threads in just a sec time for searching

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/advanced-performance-modifications-130/official-blown-4-banger-build-updates-61070/

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l-lsj-performance-tech-47/victory_red_ss-goes-rwd-48074/
both of these guys know what they are doing out of experience, i would suggest talking to either one or the other before you do an entire build

 

Why are u doing a liquid cooled motor in a plane...sooo much extra weight...

Id do a 993 porsche motor, uber powerful and air cooled

or just get a airplane motor already made.

 

since this is going on a plane i would take lots of precautions. The new Harrop TVS supercharger is your best bet i am not sure on when it will be available. The whole engine on the whole needs to be upgraded better pistons, rods, if you have money assuming you do get a whole head job done. By this i mean porting changing springs and valves so that you can rev higher. do not do 2.5 on stock supercharger not efficient. TVS by eaton is your best bet and above all things cooling mods although im not sure how that would work in a plane.

you might want to put that at into the equation.

as for the oil problem look at what corvettes have with that extra resivoir or something of another so that when the car accelerates/stops turns the oil is still there.

 

This might be helpful for your oil problem. I work on aircraft engines, and the way the oil works is it's a dry sump system, and in the tank, there is a tube (called the donkey dick) that is weighted on the end. This allows oil to be sucked up even when the plane is in hard banks/low G applications. As far as negative G's go, not so sure that would solve your problem. Hope that helps! And good luck!

Sorry, let me explain the tube. It's weighted, so no matter the angle of the tank, even if it's upside down, the tube will be pointing down, where the oil would be since it will naturally be at the lowest point to the ground.

 

dry sump oil system.

 

I would think a really small pulley, maybe like a 2.5 inch, not sure about the whole going upside down stuff

 

the reason i'm going with the ecotec in my plane is because i'm pretty sure it's never been done....i want people to see this thing in action, in the air....as far as 6 grand rpm limit, it's not really a limit, it's just what i was expecting to see before 6k is all...
another reason i'm going with the ecotec is because i already have the LSJ...and modifying this engine to get 300hp is going to cost me alot less than buying a new aircraft engine at 8K+ for this level of horsepower...
keep the replies coming!

 

I love this idea, you need to set up some pics and vids I seriously want to this little bad **** in action Lol

 

honestly, getting the HP goals (or very close to) are not gonna be that pricey....prepping for flight with a dry sump oiling system and converting the block to an air cooled setup (or dealing with the extra weight of coolant) is whats gonna hurt your wallet.

 

All you really need is a good set of pistons, nuetral balance shafts, good ARP bolts and a dry sump setup, which they already produce for the ecotec, but it's upwards of $3500 for the complete kit. since it's a plane and we aren't rating HP at the wheels, crank hp of 300 is pretty doable with a 2.8 s/c pulley and 60lb injectors. Or if you really want more high rpm power, get some cams ground for it (@$300 with supplied stock cams) and the motor should make the 300hp mark without breaking a sweat.

 

Upgrade the pistons so you don't go Subaru style in the air!

 

(btw with a turbo I'm making @400 crank on completely stock internals for the last few thousand miles)

 

That would be the dumbest idea ever.

Im a private pilot and I know a thing or two when it comes to planes.
For one thing, you cant have your plane motor revving at 7000RPM!!!! You know how fast that prop would spin, it would spit itslef apart. Also, most small plane motors make 200hp at like 3000rpm with like 250ft lbs of torque. Plane motors don't use an ECU, plane motors use magnetos, something an lsj doesn't have. Plane motors are designed to run at high altitudes, lsj isn't. If you want to make a death trap, build a plane using an lsj.

 

spend the money, its not worth your life..

 

on one hand i think it would be pretty cool to have some ecotecs in the sky. but SS07 makes a very compelling point. I say dont do it... sell the motors on cobaltss.net

 

man i fell out of my dam chair ROFL LMFAO

 

ur out of ur mind, if u hit limp more in the air u r so screwed LOL

ur an acception to the rule for some reason lol

 

subscribed to see where this goes

 

i'm glad there are still some people reading this, because i'm still researching different dry sump oil systems, i haven't found one that i believe will be compatible with the ecotec....if anyone has any input or direction towards one that IS compatible i'd greatly appreciate it.
I've been playing around with different ideas of mine to modify the engine to do what i want....now i thought of something i thought would be a great idea on my own, however when i hit the internet with the idea i found that alot of people already thought of it...
use of bottled oxygen instead of N2O (with or without it, theoretically)
now i know quite a bit about various gasses and i'm well aware that oxygen is extremely volatile in it's purest forms...and at first i thought of pure oxygen usage with a CRAZY increase in fuel injection rate, but quickly ruled this out because of oxygen's tendency catalyze anything with a combustion temp under 3500F (which is damn near everything)

HOWEVERRRRR

what i'm thinking is this:

drill, tap and thread a port somewhere on the intake after the supercharger/turbo, you could incorporate a valve into the intake, to which you would attach your O2 system line....now i'm not suggesting you throw the valve open and try to run your engine on pure oxygen.....and i haven't actually looked to see what the ACTUAL oxygen percentage is in normal atmospheric conditions BUT i THINK it's around 12%? (assuming i'm right about 12%) what if we were to regulate the oxygen injection system to raise the oxygen content of the air to, say.....20%? 30%? wouldn't that be SIGNIFICANTLY increasing HP (of course you'd have to increase fuel consumption quite a bit) but i know from working in a weld shop for a good many years that buying pure oxygen is alot cheaper than buying N2O from a race shop, per capita, plus i think the process of just incorporating a higher percentage of oxygen into your intake instead of running an N2O injection system


and i forsee with my argument some people are going to post about uneven O2 molecular distribution in the intake, so i'll try to modify my idea right here....
place the valve in-line with the cold air intake instead of after the supercharger/turbocharger and i predict that your mixture after it passes through all that piping and through your super/turbo that it'll be sufficiently mixed for my tastes...

anyways shoot some ideas let's see what we can come up with....i don't see extreme expenses involved with my idea, so i figured i'd do it this weekend if i get a high approval rating from the other great minds on here...

 

I would spray your oxygen before because it will enter the blower at a much lower temperature and help cool then heated up compressed air....also resulting in mucho hp gains...and will also help eliminate heat from the engine, which we all know is a bitch.

 

ambient air is 21% oxygen

 

I've had the dipstick pop out with dyno runs, I can only imagine the oil shooting out in a negative g turn or the crank getting bogged down in the oil.

Are airplane engines really expensive or something?