Okay, so I would like maybe some advice on what I should do and where I should go from where I'm at.

I have a 2006 Cobalt SS/SC

Right now, I am completely bone stock. Stock engine, no bolt ons, stock rims/breaks everything, rather then some electronics/interior (subs/headunit).

On Black Friday, I bought a ZZP 3" intake and a 1.0 PCM thinking this may be a good start to start modding my car. The parts are still not in, and I plan on installing them on Monday. Was this a good start? or should I return or?

If I keep going, which I plan on it, where should I go from here. I read the guide, but it really doesn't explain the order you should go to get the most out of everything you know.

What I plan on doing is staying with the stock SC, but I am down from changing everything else. My father/I own a carlot with a whole mechanics shop, and I am somewhat inclined so installation would never be a problem.

On a side note, what's the best/cheapest way to actually lower my car to a decent looking stance. I've seen what my car would look like with Tien or just a 1.5 drop, and it isn't much IMO. I do not want to cut/heat up springs or anyhting "ghetto" like that, but I was just curious.

Thanks in advance for the help

 

stage kit

 

The parts you ordered a month ago still haven't arrived? Get a refund.

 

Well, I had to send my PCM in to have it flashed before they sent my order. And I have been slammed with work/couldn't give up my DD. So monday it is!

 

Return the 1.0 PCM. Get a 2.8 pulley new or used, doesn't matter. You have e85? If so get some 80# injectors, if not 60's. You'll need a stage two belt and find someone local to give you a custom tune.

Lower it on CM lowering springs best bang for buck

 

So the PCM is worthless at the point I am @?

 

First let's address some easy stuff.

If you want to go low and scrape then get the coilovers, H&R's etc. If not the SSC's at ZZ Performance are not bad if you like red, Tein's if you like that about the same. Both are great options, Eibach's are very soft from what I've heard for the Cobalt.

If your looking for quick satisfaction upgrades, the Drilled Slotted Rotors/Stainless Brake Lines are easy bolt on's with huge improvements that won't give you a car focused in on racing.

What are you looking to do?

 

Well I just searched for E85, and if there was any around me. Closest one is 3+ hours, so that's out of the question.

@Legion I am not planning on doing any crazy racing/drag racing/or whatever. It will be 100% my DD. I'm not sure if that answers your question or not :/

 

He is fine with the PCM. Plus since he bought it on black friday he only paid like 50 bucks.

OP. Start looking at stage kits, option b, dual pass.

As for springs, SSC's. ZZP.




You want it to stop better on street friendly pads, powerstop evo pads and minty fresh OEM rotor blanks. Slots and drills for looks.

The biggest benefit you will see is a stage kit. Go straight to the 2.8" pulley but you will need a dual pass and option b first if you are going to do back to back pulls because it will get hot.

check you IC pump.

the aeroforce is the best gauge ever for the LSJ.

 

yea, I did haha. The 50% off was pretty OP. I think I want to go lower then that though ^. Still your car looks good bro.

 

If you are wanting to go lower then pony up 800-1000 dollars. Coilovers: BC BR, Stance, K-Sport. I would suggest the BC BR's

 

So this would be the ideal thing for me right now? a47eb4eb3169375e6aa298453d6e2228.png

 

It does tell me alot. Now more specificly your looking to make this a bit more pep in the step right?

Well the 3in intake is a great start. Financially returning the PCM isn't going to help because if you are going to get a tune you should get one you know what's going on with, I do not trust all the tuner's in the world. So I would go OTTP or ZZ performance for that kinda product. I like ZZ Performance's formula for STG3 w/2.8 but without 93 octane it's hard to manage, more often then not a 2.9 is good enough.

If you wanna take your time to do it right, get the option b + dual pass intercooler plate from them, by now the car's going to be running alittle smoother little odd that's fine.

Get the exhaust, it doesn't matter if you go 2.5in for what your doing now, but if you want absolutely future proof and a bit more snarl to the grumble of the exhaust note I recommend a Cat'ed 3in system. It's done good for my car and I rally it into the ground so it's tough. Again 2.5in is fine. That means getting a header combo, and the catback.

You want the resonator and cat, and the muffler if you drive it often or respect your law enforcement not giving you a ticket weekly whatever. Running no cat is illegal regardless of wither or not it's loud. Long tube header will give better results like a 3in over the 2.5 will. And Midlength or shorty will dwindle those results alittle. It's not mad power upgrades, but when you first try it out it's respectably significant.

Without a stage kit, exhaust, or any tune or pulley changes I pushed my cobalt enough to beat guys with a stage three kit without fail. Get to the exhaust then see how it feels. The stg kit is a big leap up the chain, but it's not a killer yet take it slow you don't want to overkill it and be stuck with a car modded in a way you don't like it anymore.

 

Kinda.

Who is gonna tune you?
You can use mine, but you need to come here and it will cost 100 in credits.

Stage 2 belt no oversized pulley

 

Spend the money on the stealth, the S3 is obsolete (meaning the ZZP Stealth Heat Exchanger, saves alot of headaches with lowered cars especially, lot better performance)

 

CM springs for cheap yet nice lowering springs

think there $180 new on there site

 

I can get 93 all day, I just can't get the E85. So without e85, is #80 injectors worth it? or just stick with 60? You have the ZZP Catback, along with ZZP Downpipe/Header? You posts helps alot btw

Haven't really researched this yet? What do you have to have to be able to tune? and Where are you located?

 

With a ZZP PCM you should be able to get the good tune, you should go with the 60's enless you plan on ever going E85 or over 350hp.

I got the full Longtube-3in Down Pipe-3in Catback with cat and resonator, it sounds like a pissed off Supra still but I'm content with that. Butt dyno says about a 30whp upgrade on my car. Granted mine's got some porting done by the previous owner I can't say how much the normal Cobalt Nets. My Cobalt is a nightmare of prior owner mods I run into when I think I've figured it out. If someone can speak for a local tuner your ganna get a good bang for the buck out of a local tune, just don't run the injectors out you should be plenty safe with 93.

 

The drilled and slotted rotors are dope if you live in a hill and incline area. That was the big reason I got them, I have no choice but to ride the brakes about a minute up or about 2 mins down the main hill I live at in the states. That's more to avoid traffic, I use the gears otherwise. They heat up alot with the pads I went with, think they where Akebono. I know they where little bit more touchy then stock ceramics where.

 

I literally live in straight flat ground in Florida haha.

 

Yeah only benefits of drilled and slotted rotors for you then is little rotating weight savings which would be marginal at best, and show. They stay alot cleaner from what the bro tells me, he's been watching it since I put em on.

Don't overlook that intercooler pump when you get in there, mine was loose fell out while I was overhauling the engine. And clutch job on this car will certainly have you willing to fork some cash for help, it was a pain. STG4 Clutchmaster with light weight Flywheel is nice. Any LW Flywheel is great RPM accelerant, but get a hurst if you get that far, it's hard to shift quick enough LOL

 

Cooling mods are over rated. Not needed

 

Regardless of wither or not they're needed free horsepower is always more free when you keep the engine cool.

Few hundred in block damage prevention and happy boost to power always makes me happy.

 

I recommend using the search button this has been covered 1065556743746767 times and there is plenty of threads/info on it

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...-guide-217195/

cooling mods are not free and do not keep the engine cool that is the radiators job cooling mods are only good for recovery time for the ic system if you want better temps add capacity

 

Not everyone has someone with HP Tuners local, let alone someone who actually knows what they are doing. If this is the case with OP, stick with hat you have