2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

Break In?

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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 11:58 PM
  #26  
zinner's Avatar
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From: RTP, NC
Originally Posted by BlueVillain
Nowadays things are a little more precise from the factory, but there's still no guaranteeing anything. No sense in being "too careful" when it comes to a $23,000 investment.

Villain

GM guarantees their product with an warrenty. If your engine blows up before 5 years / 60k miles they replace it for you Sure you know that however. The fact that GM is putting 5/60 power train on their cars says they believe in them.
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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 03:13 AM
  #27  
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so u think it might be a good idea to at least change it at like 1500 the first time


which is gonna come pretty quick, got almost 100 miles and haven't even had it 24hours LOL
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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 09:01 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Skiboarder311
so u think it might be a good idea to at least change it at like 1500 the first time which is gonna come pretty quick, got almost 100 miles and haven't even had it 24hours LOL
No, just don't drive on the highway for five hours on your way home from the dealership.

I don't think you need to change the oil at all until the DIC tells you to. I would suggest taking it to a dealership service department you trust as well. Minor things like the alignment have a 7500 mile warranty and they affect the long term performance of the car.

My point was that the difference between a car that lasts 100,000 and 300,000 miles are subtle. Sure it'll last for 60k, but it's also a Chevrolet, so it will last much longer than that.

I still see Nova's on the road, and those cars sucked, but they are still Chevy's.

Villain
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 07:17 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by wesmanw02
As the others said, it is best to break in a car properly, in order to avoid issues in the future. However, that does not mean run the car hard. Beating on the car will not give it a good break-in, hence the reason that GM has the factory-set rev limit that goes away after a certain amount of miles.

The proper way to break in a performance car is to let it warm up completely, and then run it aggresively and variably. Aggresively doesn't mean bouncing-off-the-rev-limiter powershifts and hole shots, that will result in problems. Aggressively means easy launches, shifting at about 4-5K, no powershifting or other clutch abuse, and avoiding WOT if at all possible.

Also try to vary the engine speed as you are breaking the car in - don't stay at a certain RPM for too long, so if you are on the highway fluctuate speed and gear ratios as much as possible. Also try not to "lug" the engine too much, if it starts to bog down, downshift immediately to keep it in comfortable operating range.

Break in a car like that, and you should have many more problem-free miles to come
that is the absolute way to break it in
do a couple of 2nd and 3rd gear pulls, not WOT, not up to redline either
the reason the dealership says to wait 1500 mi or so, is because it gets them out of 1500 mi on a warranty

as far as clutch break in goes, thats complete bs
drive normal
dont do any hard launches or dumb ****
after 100 mi or so, it'll be broken in

if you follow this advice, your cobalt will be fine
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 10:37 PM
  #30  
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From: Regina, SK, Canada
Originally Posted by zinner
I lived in upstate NY for most of my life and we get lots of snow and cold. I have seen plenty of mornings where it's sub-zero fahrenheit and I have never needed a block heater either. It's has got to be pretty darn cold where you live to warrent one of those suckers.


b-spot how cold is it where you live that it requires the use of a electric block heater?
Well here in Regina (middle of Canada), in winter it can reach -70 C with the wind. -50 C without. I don't know about you, but most cars, regardless of the age of the car, have trouble starting in this when they have sat in it over night. The only way for us here to buy a car without the block heater is to have it imported from somewhere else. The factories don't even allow us to build a car without one.
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 10:48 PM
  #31  
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From: RTP, NC
Originally Posted by XeroState
Well here in Regina (middle of Canada), in winter it can reach -70 C with the wind. -50 C without. I don't know about you, but most cars, regardless of the age of the car, have trouble starting in this when they have sat in it over night. The only way for us here to buy a car without the block heater is to have it imported from somewhere else. The factories don't even allow us to build a car without one.
Thats only -50 to -98F stop being suck a whimp! I have only been in that type of weather once on a boy scout camping trip. It sucked. Whats in Regina that work putting up with that type of weather.
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 11:21 PM
  #32  
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To quote from the manual "a break in of 500 miles, low and high speeds, no constant speed" or atleast thats what I'm telling the cops
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 11:56 PM
  #33  
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From: RTP, NC
I have a 500 mile drive home from the dealer. It's through mostly rural PA. I am guessing I will have some opportunity to get on the throttle a couple times on the way home.
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Old Mar 27, 2005 | 09:01 PM
  #34  
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From: Red Bud, Illinois
Originally Posted by zinner
I have a 500 mile drive home from the dealer. It's through mostly rural PA. I am guessing I will have some opportunity to get on the throttle a couple times on the way home.

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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 12:44 AM
  #35  
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i would change the oil after 500, or a 1000
cuz the motors grind **** and such, and its good to change the oil after that many miles
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 01:11 PM
  #36  
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Well 500 has come and gone, and i didn't change it


I'm takin the risk, i'm gonna wait until maybe 1500


Hey, that mobil 1 ain't cheap yo
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 06:46 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Skiboarder311
Well 500 has come and gone, and i didn't change it


I'm takin the risk, i'm gonna wait until maybe 1500


Hey, that mobil 1 ain't cheap yo

cheaper than having to deal with a blown motor later
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 06:52 PM
  #38  
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Manual mentions nothing about changing the oil after 500 miles. Not sure where you getting that figure from. Manual says listen to the oil life system or change it every 3000 miles if the oil light gets accidentally reset.

I am at 94% oil life.

As for the break in I had to drive about 370 miles to get from the dealer to home. I just kept switching between 3rd, 4th and 5th gears to keep the engine speed changing. Otherwise I am trying to keep the RPM's low most of the time.
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 08:41 PM
  #39  
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wow, good old times. Back in the day, zinner was the only one with an SS/SC on the forums

(I just dug this thread out of the grave )
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 08:57 PM
  #40  
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lol i just got mine. So is this oil change after 1500 mi real?
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 08:59 PM
  #41  
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From: RTP, NC
Back when we all got along!

Yep just about 30 payments left and then she is mine!
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