Yeah, the eBay intake will **** up your car. I know first hand. It was always throwing codes and making my car run like ****.

 

I took my intake completely off and put it back on.. Everything is mounted correctly and all the couplers are tight. Its still doing it, although last night I was coming to a stop and it decided to stall. My TB is clean and I dont have idle problems. Ive replaced the MAF and MAP sensors.. It has to be the intake or filter..

 

Get a stock intake, if everything else is stock. Your car will just run better. Stock intake and k&n drop in for some whine.

 

I ran the ebay intake and it worked fine, its just a tube with a filter. Check the maf,make sure its facing the proper way.Sometimes guys make the mistake of putting it backwards because it fits.

 

Do you remember the code? poorly designed intakes will normally throw lean or rich codes (p0170-p0172)


if you get a P0068,P0122,P0121,P0223,P2101 , i would still lean towards the Throttle body being defective. see my previous post. the car may not always throw the same codes, buy a cheap reader and write down the codes every time it throws one it will give you better picture of whats going on.

 

The whole TB was replaced when I got the car.. I paid $430 to have a new one put in and programmed by a dealer. It is running rich/lean, I can tell that by the carbon built-up spitting out of the exhaust. Unfortunatly, I can't afford to go to the junkyard to get a stock intake. I can't afford a new intake this week, so I'm forced to drive it without hitting boost at all. It's VERY challanging to NOT hit boost in this car, i swear.. lol.

 

First of all, stop. You're wasting your time/money and the guy at Advance is an idiot who just wants to throw parts at the problem.

Get a scan tool and retrieve the actual codes. Then, bring your codes here. Or, go to your dealer and have them sort this out.

 

Mines did the same thing when i cleaned my intake but used that red oil filter stuff, went into limp mode at the drive thru on july 4th night....with tons of ppl around too. Took off the intake and sprayed the sensor and its been fine every since


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Well, the TPS sensor was bad when I bought the car. I didn't know crap about it and they said the whole thing nee ded replaced and reprogrammed.. That was the one and only time I've ever had a dealership do anything to my car. I'll definitely get the codes again tomorrow.. Some days it does it, some it doesn't. So maybe it'll happen tomorrow... Not trying to jinx myself lol

 

I didnt drive my car to work this morning, due to snowy roads. I took my moms jeep instead. I'll try to get it to happen this weekend.. Im really trying to get this sorted out and fixed.

 

haha mine has been dieing on 71 twards cleveland.. it blew a fire ball at like 70.
mine threw codes for both crank and cam position sensors.
Asking around i found it may be the battery.. Testing my battery it tested 300 cca. Pulling it out it looked like it was having twins(bloated).
having a bad battery can cause funny ****.

 

I cant get it to do it now, of course.. but I did do a second gear pull this morning.. Once I got to about 5000-5300 RPM, the intake started making noises.. It sounded like I was bouncing off the rev limiter, but the sound was coming from my intake.. I lost alot of power after 5300 RPM.. hmm.. Check engine light didnt come on or anything.

 

If you have a friend with the same car swap t.b. and run it hard and within 2 minutes you will know if its the t.b. I have changed it twice and I am on my third one. Everything you have stated are problems I had andit turned out to be the t.b. do not go to the dealer for a t.b. one can be bought online for $100.00. It takes about 10 minutes at most the change out. Good luck.