OK so i am running into some issue's and getting things told to me that are making this extremly difficult.

basicly im FULLY building my 2.0L.

now what is confusing me is the pistons.

i am in dead removing any and all things to do with the S/C. I am going to a turbo system.

please do not ask about the size ofthe turbo and what not.

I am being told to run 9.5:1 pistons... but i am also being told i should go to 8:1 as thats what the srt4 2.4L's are useing?

i am hoping to push close to 500whp.

if some one can please lend me some tech doc's or some helpful info that would be awesome and i thank you in advance

Tyler

 

Well im building my 2.2L motor then adding a turbo. Aaron from turbo tech told me to run the 9.5:1 ratios pistons. That would give me the best gains. Im not sure about the SRT engines compared to ours.

 

there is a guy in saskatchewan who has done an awesome turbo job... his forum handle his name is blackss/sc, Dave ask him

 

dont go 8:1 9:1 would be nice but if i were to do it i would go 9.5:1 it will be fine.....

 

hopefully you are not going to try this yourself, and you have an extra $5k sitting in your piggy bank to pay someone else to do it.

 

If you're going to have huge boost you may want a lower compression ratio, as was suggested, but remember the srt is a 2.4 and the ecotec is 2.0 so there's .1l extra capacity per chamber in the srt...so maybe the stock ratio would be okay to run. You can probably do the stock crank and rods but if you're changing the pistons you might as well foot it for some new pins and maybe billet rods.

 

hes not goign to eb runningn huge amounts boost
and hes not gonna run 500 hp, as hes gonna a lot more parts than he thinks

hes gonna stay at 9.5:1 WHY b/c i said so, his journeyman dont knwo half as much about this motor as i do


hes A Mechanic, so why pay someone else to rebuild a very simple motor, hardest part is getting the gaps on your rings.

tyler u need a Hahn intake manifold, a t3/t4 super 60
a turbo exhaust mani
u need head studs,
-main studs,
-cam ger bolts,
-piston cap bolts,
-pistons from diamond both moly coated and ? coated(lol),
-main crank bolt,
-neutral balance delete kit,
-crank work same as mine thats being done,
-u need a very expensive clutch,
-lsd, ur tranny to be cryo treated,
-1MM+ valves X 16 ss from ferrera,
-16X dual coil over valve springs (bates or ferrera or others), u need a new cam grind, ported and polished head, sleeves, u need 1 sleeve

theres more but my brain is not working so well right now

 

you should run 8:1!!!

 

um if it was a honduh.... but i think he still want SOME trq... ehh but what do i know right?

im only doing a lsj build as we speak...

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums//sho...d.php?t=104965

HOWS THAT FOR TRQ..... thats with 8:1 or 8.5:1 i cannot recall right now

 

like sunfire said im a mechanic. i do not need to pay some one to assemble a motor that i can assemble myself

 

not that great....notice the tq is over 100 ft lbs below HP...
ecotecs are torque monsters....read the build book and check their HP/TRQ numbers...like 300hp and 350tq...thats the good stuff

not to say 420hp isnt very nice...but were talking tq here

 

86 mm pistons, sleeves and a c/r of 8.8:1

 

doc never leads anyone wrong

but would require 4 new sleeves

 

i belive you mis understood i was telling someone that 8:1 is not the way to go because of the reason i posted and the video...

maybe you quoted me by accident?

 

you may be a mechanic in jim bob's garage of rice, but those questions you ask in the first post tell me you don't know about motors.

like i said, if you really want it, you better take it to a shop

 

He says 500 to the wheels...that's no way to get that high without a lot of boost; high 20's at least. Depends on what you can reclaim from swapping stock components; guessing 160-170 max.

http://www.tunercalcs.com/horsepower-from-boost.html (not accurate but a good guesstimate)

 

i seen stock lsj's with a turbo swap pushing 400wph with 389tq

 

on a street driven car i like to keep the compression higher and run a tad less boost to get the power im after. higher compression will keep the motor more driveable out of boost at low to mid range throttle, it will also help with fuel economy. i would also keep the turbo a bit on the small side of whats "calculated perfect size", this will help it spool faster also making the car more drivable.

if i was building an all out race motor that wouldnt see much street use, id drop the compression to 8.0:1 and run higher boost and the biggest turbo i could. a motor like that has limited power, who cares what sort of torque off idle and out of boost as its going to be launched in boost and nothing else matters.

also keep in mind your dynamic compression ratio is greatly affected by your cam choice. choose your cams first before calculating what you want for static compression.

i built a friend a decent 2.2l over winter. i used wiseco 8.9:1 pistons, and with an lsj head gasket it ended up at 9.26:1 compression with stainless valves (the head is less CC). currently are using stock cams and a custom built 50 trim. its very drivable off idle and in traffic, has 8psi at 2600rpm, and at 10psi its maxing out 42.5lb/hr injectors at 55psi static pressure (so they flow closer to 48lb/hr). with the stock cams the dynamic compression is still fairly high, helping with driveability. the power goal with this motor was 350whp, we are a long way from that so far however im only at 10psi and need bigger inbjectors. planning to build an intake manifold and run 2 sets of injectors, stock 24lbs and once the boost comes on have the 42lbs come on. i also dont wanna run more boost through a plastic intake, ive seen what lsx intakes do with boost.

 

might want to look at a saab intake or possibly an lsj intake and modding the piping so that it fits on the 2.2

 

using the hahn intake

 

i gotcha/...i though you were saying like "look at all that torque! with 8.0:1 pistons!" instead of "thats how little torque he made on 8.0:1 pistons"

 

id really hate to thread jack but whats the stock ss/sc injector lb/hr?

 

32lbs

yeah that was a shitty build... to bad he blew already also..

 

i personally wouldnt drop below 8.9:1 on these motors unless im in some serious boost....like 800hp range...which i would never do of course

 

keep the stock compression, the head does not flow enough...............if you run lower cr you will lose all of your bottom end on the car, and will get very little torque out if it. i'm running 9.5:1 and getting zero kr with 22degrees of timing at 8k rpms