This has happened maybe 5-10 times over the last week.

So say, i'm going from reverse to first (lots of clutch activity) or inching forward in stop and go traffic, i have the clutch pedal all the way in an the needle kinda hops around and the car shudders or it just goes down and the car dies.

anyone else ever deal with this issue? i had a new clutch (gmpp) and all the works professionally installed maybe 2 months ago

 

Your clutch is actually disengaged when you have the pedal pushed in. Perhaps the system isn't bled enough and isn't releasing completely.

 

i was thinking about that... it would be wierd though well where do i check for fluid level? its a seperate resioviour from the brake fluid right?

 

brake and clutch are the same reservoir

 

hmm so maybe it is. i suppose flushing the brake fluid properly (rear pass side brake then counter clockwise) might fix my problem then? i gotta do it anyway so its def. worth a try

 

I wouldn't think bleeding the brakes would affect the clutch. there is a clutch bleed screw on the clutch distribution block on the top of the trans where you bleed the clutch from. also make sure to close the bleed screw while the pedal is going down and not after is it completely down. did you get a new TOB/slave installed with the clutch?

 

I did a new TOB but not slave... if i do the bleed screw like ur talking about would that be best done after bleeding the brakes because i'm bleeding the brakes either way

 

I wouldn't think its your clutch.
My car does this when I have a lot of clutch activity, and sometimes the revs will bounce just like yours, and even itself out or stall trying. For whatever reason, I don't know.

 

YUP thats exactly what im talking about, i was worried it would stall when i pulled up to the trees at the dragstrip the other night that woulda been so embarrassing!

 

i use to have this problem to... i cleaned my throttle body well and it went away. any CEL lights? bad throttle body maybe?

 

Throw any codes? I would clean the throttle to start if you already haven't and check for pending codes. Have you done anything to the car in the past week?

 

naw nothing in the last week minus zzp longtube dp 2 weeks ago. throwing p0420 i believe?

and yea i've cleaned my TB a good few times i know how that goes with the idles lol

 

that code is just cause of your dp but nothing to do with your stalling problem... could be your throttle body shitting the bed but dont quote me on that... maybe someone more experienced can chime in

 

Only reason I ask is because I had a weird idle and it ended up being a combo of the crank sensor and the throttle being dirty. Cleaned throttle and change out the crank sensor and I haven't had an issue since. If you have the ability and someone is nice enough, have someone just check out if something is popping up under a pending code through HPtuners.

 

Yeah, dude. I have no idea. I've learned to live with it.
I've cleaned my throttle body more times than I wipe my ass after a poop.

It's not your clutch though, so don't worry about that.
Slave is your TOB on this car, btw. They're combined.

Jeremy might be on a lead.

 

Oh ok well yea i'm thinking about just getting a new TB to be safe and then a catch can maybe to keep it clean idk

 

This sounds silly.

But are you running the AC in this heat?

My car hates having the AC on, always has, even when stock.

 

Let me know if that fixes your problem. I have 154k on my TB, but it acts the same way yours does.

And Whitnith, it's very intermittent. A/C could probably make it more prone to happening, so it's something to test.

 

naw it does it ac on or not, but yea my car hates the AC too, hell it even hates the rear defroster being on... my cars such a *****

 

i know u said it just started a week ago also but maybe even your tune may need a tweek. i see u have 60# injectors and those can give problems around those low rpms or idle if not tuned properly.. just throwing ideas out there

 

my idle does what u say when tb is dirty which has been said and acknowledged

but when i have an exhaust leak say at the downpipe the clutch likes to almost stall, let me explain

since the dp isn't fully connected to the header, the disengaging of the clutch and movement of the tranny make my ability to add gas a bit more hesitant so the rpms drop and my sensitive gas is more touchy just not were it usually is.... touchy

i have driven around with a blown gasket down there or two haha

 

i know exactly what you both mean!

my gas pedal/idle is spotty. its like if i wanna rev up quickly to downshift or something the car sputters a bit, tuning may definately be needed to solve my issue 100%. i'm gonna clean the TB again when i get the chance, see where that takes me, and keep this all in mind when i get a good tune.

thanks for all the advice so far, everyone. and for the record, car hasn't stalled since day before yesterday *crosses fingers*

 

I've heard a few stories of the pipe going to the tranny/TOB leaking after a clutch swap and releasing pressure, causing the clutch to basically unbleed itself if the car was sitting for a while or if your foot was on the clutch pedal for a while. Driving around for a while, with the clutch pedal getting pumped, caused it to temporarily go away from what I heard. I've also heard of heavier duty clutches causing clutch master cylinder failures. Just some ideas of things to check.

You're saying that it sometimes feels like the pedal's friction point moved?

 

Riceburner, do you have interceptors and clear your check engine light often? Next time it happens where the car sputters and shuts off, don't clear the code because it will clear any pending codes as well.

Good luck and let us know!

 

Sounds more like a cam/crank sensor issue or evap leak losing fuel pressure.