I'm having ISSUES with my S/C cooling

I've run the dual pass. AND YES!!! I SWAPPED THE LAMINOVA'S OUT PROPERLY!!

I'm also running the opt B....

I've routed the hoses like this..... with the exception of the ZZP heat exchanger...





That's the same routing that the GM installation instructions tell ya to do...


Why are the hoses routed differently than with the normal, factory single pass ...

like this...



I was talkin to another guy last night at a car meet, he's got his dual pass routed the same way as the single pass, and had never had any issues. Mind you he does not have a scan gauge, so he don't know what his IAT2 temps are. But, he says the car runs strong and free.....

Any thoughts on what could be wrong???


I've checked for kinks, none

I've routed all the hoses so they are lower than the surge tank....

I'm lost!!!! Any input would be appreciated....

 

you know that the pump is going to heat up the cold water right before it goes into the laminovas right? that's why you have the pump push into the cooler and from the cooler to the laminovas

 

I have my stuff routed like the ZZP diagram and it works great. Are you just having high IAT2 temp problems?

 

I'm pullin an average of 50F-60F swing between my IAT1 and IAT2 temps...

sooo yea.. I'm having issues...

I jumped the pins on the pump relay and the pump is running....

IF you don't want hot water going into the laminovas, why did GM make that routing from factory?


My temps will go up when I do a hard pull (up to like 150-160F), and will cool back down. But, it's never gone lower than 45F hotter than my IAT1 temps...

 

for the same reason half of the headlights get water in them, or 90% of the sunroof bezels pop off, or the power steering module goes out or the slave cylinder goes to **** or the air bag button on the pillar falls out, or the dip stick pops out or.. i can go on for days man...

 

Does the Heat Exchanger flow a certain direction??

I was just staring at my install... I noticed that, compared to the illustration, my IN and OUT are backwards.

Would that make a difference???

 

It shouldn't make a difference. And you've gone over you're entire system for leaks? When i first installed my stuff the brass fitting that threads into the stock exhanger for the option b had a micro leak that you could hardly see and it wasn't bleeding the system properly. You can see the coolant flowing good in the 1/4" hose from the exchanger to the option b tank with no bubbles at all in the line?

 

all is good.. no kinks.. no leaks.. flowing good..

 

Don't know what to tell ya man. Either you're pump isn't working, you have something routed improperly or you're getting air in the system. Theres not a whole lot to go wrong. Maybe try swapping the heat exchanger hoses like the diagram. I don't think it will make a difference but it's something to try

 

IF I had air in my system, how Could I tell, and how would i get it out?

Thanks again for all the help guys!!

 

Well when i had that small leak on the fitting of my option b coming off the heat exchanger i could see tons of very tiny bubbles in the hose. Is the hose from the heat exchanger to the tank clear? Because then you will be able to see air even of the smallest bit and be able to see the coolant flowing into the tank. An option b constantly bleeds the system so if everything is sealed tight it will bleed the air out of the system on it's own

 

Sorry for the thread jack, but with option b should there be a constant flow of fluid coming from the bleed line into the option b tank? I dont have any fluid coming back, its a pretty small orifice tho.

 

Yes there should be. Thats what gets the air out of you're system. Check the brass fitting on you're heat exchanger. At first mine wasn't bleeding then i turned the fitting like one full turn and boom i watched the coolant flow up the line to the tank.

 

Are you sure the pump is flowing or running? You can buy an infared thermometer and Check all the hose temps they should all be very close before the cooler, and all close after the cooler. Any major change in temp is a restriction. Have you checked your IAT 2 temp after the car has cooled for a long period of time to make sure its the same as IAT 1.

 

With an orifice you might not get a flow of fluid back but still be bleeding air.. do you have an orifice in your line?

 

So what would the point of the orifice be if no coolant flows through it? It restricts the flow to make bleeding easier. If coolant isnt going through the line then you have an air leak. Yes i have an orifice in my line

 

When I leave the car sit, the TWO temps are virtually the same (within a couple degrees)

I've jumped the pins on the relay and have heard the pump running....

I'm about ready to just take it to Powell and let him have at it....

 

You must be looking over something simple. Did you swap those heat exhanger hoses? Might as well start simple. You must be over looking something small.

 

I know.. it's gonna be something so stupid when it's all said and done..

 

FIXED!!!


The plumbing was wrong at the pump.. it was plumbed down there according to the single-pass illustrations....

 

That'll do it. Good to hear you got it fixed