Dead Clutch???
 

Hey guys, I just recently got my ZZP Stage 3 installed and tuned. So after a hard take off my clutch pedal never comes up from the floor when i spin thru first any ideas? Im guessing its just too much power for the stock clutch. Thanks guys

Sounds like it needs bled better if it doesn't come off the floor.

I mean it comes up but i cant shift immediately to second if that tells you anything

What? That doesn't make any sense

Well Im saying when i do a WOT pull the clutch feels dead aftwerwards. For example hard to shift, etc...

your throw out bearing has taken a shit replace it

bad throwout bearing

So its the throwout bearing causing the clutch to stay to the floor for a few seconds? Thanks guys

Yes. They tend to fail and lock up at higher rpms, meaning you have to wait for it to release so you can go into the next gear. Not a suprise, common failure on these cars.

Down side is that you have to pull the trans to change it, so it's time for a new clutch as well.

I have a similar problem with my NEW clutch and TO bearing after replacement. The clutch engages very low after a 1st to 2nd "power shift". I thought it was also a bleed issue so I had it bled again.

If often have to 'flick' the clutch pedal to get normal pedal feel back. It is very annoying since I always have to be aware of the stupid clutch action. For now I am living with it but any power shift from 1st to 2nd also results in clutch slippage unless I really 'dump' the clutch. Even this doesn't guarantee a good hookup. If I feel any slippage I have to back off to avoid damage.

It sucks and since I am not capable of doing the clutch myself I am going to save up for a GMPP clutch and flywheel and then research a shop that can perform the work correctly.

It kind of pisses me off that I blew $1100 to have the clutch replaced and ended up with this......

So what clutch would you guys recommend? I hear the KY Clutches are very good for the price is this so?

What happened when you took the car back to where you had the work done?

I haven't called them yet. Stay tuned I am going to call them now. I think I am in a bit of a pickle with that becuase when they gave it back to me (a day later than they said becuase of clutch 'bleeding' problems) they said it should work its way out. I then parked it for the winter and now have been driving it this way for a few months. My guess is they will do nothing because i brought the parts and they will claim it is a clutch fault.

They said it sounds like the clutch slave is leaking. So it look like I am going to order a GMPP with all the parts needed.

Should I do the flywheel to just becuase I am in there?

thoughts on a lighter flywheel?

lighter fw will most likely require a tune. as for re-using the old one, you will need to get it resurfaced if you dont want to buy a new one.

Yeah I hear you on the resurface. The shop I used said they ALWAYS resurface the clutch. The shop manager said he will work with me on the price to replace the clutch again when it comes time. i am going to order a GMPP clutch kit to prepare for the eventual need.....

Ok guys I bled the clutch and did some pull it held up good, then a week of normal driving and I decided to do another hard pull and bam the clutch goes all the way to the floor again. WTF what is wrong with my clutch anyone still think I should just replace it with a stage 1 ky clutch or the gmpp clutch

Definitely the TOB then.
I have this issue currently.
if you lightly pump the clutch pedal it should bring back some pressure.
keep it out of WOT and heavy load and the pedal stay pretty consistent.
start ordering parts.

(best prices)
GMPP clutch kit (comes with LNF TOB) from Crate Engine Depot
Flywheel bolts from ZZP
Call a local dealership and talk to them about price matching GM Parts direct for a brand new OEM flywheel (these are heavy and shipping kills online deals)..
Wilwood DOT3 570 (3) from Summit Racing
GM trans fluid (2 quarts)

just did all of this for a grand total of
$515.42~~

Is this everything I would need? And would this hold the power of a TVS or Light turbo build?

Add in a few bucks for a brand new clutch pipe (like 6 bucks with the Crate Engine Depot order and a clutch alignment tool if you dont have one).
But other than those things just tools, knowledge, and time.

Personally, no idea. I have read the GMPP is rated for 300ft/lbs or that a strong one wont be maxed out by a M62. However, I am new to Cobalts and there was a guy posting in my clutch thread about his GMPP holding upwards of 450 horsepower. I dont fully recall, so dont quote that. Ill see if I can find the posts.....

EDIT********************
Found his posts

i have a ky stage 3 clutch for sale if anyone needs one

You do not need to tune for a light weight flywheel. I am running the Fidanza with the gmpp upgrade clutch no issues and feels great.

good to know. i've read a few people had misfire issues at idle, so I always prepare for the worst.

Misfires at idle are very common depending which injectors and tune are on the car. I have 60# siemens and I have always had a slight misfire for about 40k miles now. Just a cobalt thing it seems, even my gms2 tune did it years ago.

Thanks guys sounds like a plan. GMPP it will be and then time for another tune badly is there anyone close to me that tunes. Hickory, NC Thanks for y'alls inputs