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Dead Clutch???

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Old 05-15-2012, 10:30 AM
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Dead Clutch???

Hey guys, I just recently got my ZZP Stage 3 installed and tuned. So after a hard take off my clutch pedal never comes up from the floor when i spin thru first any ideas? Im guessing its just too much power for the stock clutch. Thanks guys
Old 05-15-2012, 10:34 AM
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Sounds like it needs bled better if it doesn't come off the floor.
Old 05-15-2012, 10:40 AM
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I mean it comes up but i cant shift immediately to second if that tells you anything
Old 05-15-2012, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Bad-A-SS
Hey guys, I just recently got my ZZP Stage 3 installed and tuned. So after a hard take off my clutch pedal never comes up from the floor when i spin thru first any ideas? Im guessing its just too much power for the stock clutch. Thanks guys
What? That doesn't make any sense
Old 05-15-2012, 11:07 AM
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Well Im saying when i do a WOT pull the clutch feels dead aftwerwards. For example hard to shift, etc...
Old 05-15-2012, 11:31 AM
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your throw out bearing has taken a **** replace it
Old 05-15-2012, 11:35 AM
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bad throwout bearing
Old 05-15-2012, 11:42 AM
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So its the throwout bearing causing the clutch to stay to the floor for a few seconds? Thanks guys
Old 05-15-2012, 11:58 AM
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Yes. They tend to fail and lock up at higher rpms, meaning you have to wait for it to release so you can go into the next gear. Not a suprise, common failure on these cars.

Down side is that you have to pull the trans to change it, so it's time for a new clutch as well.
Old 05-15-2012, 12:12 PM
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I have a similar problem with my NEW clutch and TO bearing after replacement. The clutch engages very low after a 1st to 2nd "power shift". I thought it was also a bleed issue so I had it bled again.

If often have to 'flick' the clutch pedal to get normal pedal feel back. It is very annoying since I always have to be aware of the stupid clutch action. For now I am living with it but any power shift from 1st to 2nd also results in clutch slippage unless I really 'dump' the clutch. Even this doesn't guarantee a good hookup. If I feel any slippage I have to back off to avoid damage.

It sucks and since I am not capable of doing the clutch myself I am going to save up for a GMPP clutch and flywheel and then research a shop that can perform the work correctly.

It kind of pisses me off that I blew $1100 to have the clutch replaced and ended up with this......
Old 05-15-2012, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
Yes. They tend to fail and lock up at higher rpms, meaning you have to wait for it to release so you can go into the next gear. Not a suprise, common failure on these cars.

Down side is that you have to pull the trans to change it, so it's time for a new clutch as well.
So what clutch would you guys recommend? I hear the KY Clutches are very good for the price is this so?
Old 05-15-2012, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by jvirginillo
I have a similar problem with my NEW clutch and TO bearing after replacement. The clutch engages very low after a 1st to 2nd "power shift". I thought it was also a bleed issue so I had it bled again.

If often have to 'flick' the clutch pedal to get normal pedal feel back. It is very annoying since I always have to be aware of the stupid clutch action. For now I am living with it but any power shift from 1st to 2nd also results in clutch slippage unless I really 'dump' the clutch. Even this doesn't guarantee a good hookup. If I feel any slippage I have to back off to avoid damage.

It sucks and since I am not capable of doing the clutch myself I am going to save up for a GMPP clutch and flywheel and then research a shop that can perform the work correctly.

It kind of pisses me off that I blew $1100 to have the clutch replaced and ended up with this......
What happened when you took the car back to where you had the work done?
Old 05-15-2012, 12:36 PM
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I haven't called them yet. Stay tuned I am going to call them now. I think I am in a bit of a pickle with that becuase when they gave it back to me (a day later than they said becuase of clutch 'bleeding' problems) they said it should work its way out. I then parked it for the winter and now have been driving it this way for a few months. My guess is they will do nothing because i brought the parts and they will claim it is a clutch fault.
Old 05-15-2012, 12:50 PM
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They said it sounds like the clutch slave is leaking. So it look like I am going to order a GMPP with all the parts needed.

Should I do the flywheel to just becuase I am in there?

thoughts on a lighter flywheel?
Old 05-15-2012, 01:29 PM
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lighter fw will most likely require a tune. as for re-using the old one, you will need to get it resurfaced if you dont want to buy a new one.
Old 05-15-2012, 02:05 PM
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Yeah I hear you on the resurface. The shop I used said they ALWAYS resurface the clutch. The shop manager said he will work with me on the price to replace the clutch again when it comes time. i am going to order a GMPP clutch kit to prepare for the eventual need.....
Old 09-23-2012, 11:43 AM
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Ok guys I bled the clutch and did some pull it held up good, then a week of normal driving and I decided to do another hard pull and bam the clutch goes all the way to the floor again. WTF what is wrong with my clutch anyone still think I should just replace it with a stage 1 ky clutch or the gmpp clutch
Old 09-23-2012, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Bad-A-SS
Ok guys I bled the clutch and did some pull it held up good, then a week of normal driving and I decided to do another hard pull and bam the clutch goes all the way to the floor again. WTF what is wrong with my clutch anyone still think I should just replace it with a stage 1 ky clutch or the gmpp clutch
Definitely the TOB then.
I have this issue currently.
if you lightly pump the clutch pedal it should bring back some pressure.
keep it out of WOT and heavy load and the pedal stay pretty consistent.
start ordering parts.

(best prices)
GMPP clutch kit (comes with LNF TOB) from Crate Engine Depot
Flywheel bolts from ZZP
Call a local dealership and talk to them about price matching GM Parts direct for a brand new OEM flywheel (these are heavy and shipping kills online deals)..
Wilwood DOT3 570 (3) from Summit Racing
GM trans fluid (2 quarts)

just did all of this for a grand total of
$515.42~~
Old 09-23-2012, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackSSstg2
Definitely the TOB then.
I have this issue currently.
if you lightly pump the clutch pedal it should bring back some pressure.
keep it out of WOT and heavy load and the pedal stay pretty consistent.
start ordering parts.

(best prices)
GMPP clutch kit (comes with LNF TOB) from Crate Engine Depot
Flywheel bolts from ZZP
Call a local dealership and talk to them about price matching GM Parts direct for a brand new OEM flywheel (these are heavy and shipping kills online deals)..
Wilwood DOT3 570 (3) from Summit Racing
GM trans fluid (2 quarts)

just did all of this for a grand total of
$515.42~~
Is this everything I would need? And would this hold the power of a TVS or Light turbo build?
Old 09-23-2012, 11:47 PM
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Add in a few bucks for a brand new clutch pipe (like 6 bucks with the Crate Engine Depot order and a clutch alignment tool if you dont have one).
But other than those things just tools, knowledge, and time.

Personally, no idea. I have read the GMPP is rated for 300ft/lbs or that a strong one wont be maxed out by a M62. However, I am new to Cobalts and there was a guy posting in my clutch thread about his GMPP holding upwards of 450 horsepower. I dont fully recall, so dont quote that. Ill see if I can find the posts.....

EDIT********************
Found his posts

Originally Posted by BLAZIN07SS
Gmpp clutch. Don't ask me how but it's holding 450+whp. Can't ask for anything more from it. Drives like a factory clutch.
Originally Posted by BLAZIN07SS
The next dyno day that comes around, you will have your proof. S256et on 25.5psi, e85 and 24* of timing. Gmpp clutch like a champ
Originally Posted by slapbetcommissioner
Bluelightning is running the gmpp with an aggressive tuned tvs. He's at least at 300wtq If not better. Drag radials and 7krpm launches. It's sticking the power no problem.
Old 09-24-2012, 10:27 AM
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i have a ky stage 3 clutch for sale if anyone needs one
Old 09-24-2012, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by SaberD
lighter fw will most likely require a tune. as for re-using the old one, you will need to get it resurfaced if you dont want to buy a new one.
You do not need to tune for a light weight flywheel. I am running the Fidanza with the gmpp upgrade clutch no issues and feels great.
Old 09-24-2012, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Hockeyman
You do not need to tune for a light weight flywheel. I am running the Fidanza with the gmpp upgrade clutch no issues and feels great.
good to know. i've read a few people had misfire issues at idle, so I always prepare for the worst.
Old 09-24-2012, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by SaberD
good to know. i've read a few people had misfire issues at idle, so I always prepare for the worst.
Misfires at idle are very common depending which injectors and tune are on the car. I have 60# siemens and I have always had a slight misfire for about 40k miles now. Just a cobalt thing it seems, even my gms2 tune did it years ago.
Old 09-26-2012, 12:08 AM
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Thanks guys sounds like a plan. GMPP it will be and then time for another tune badly is there anyone close to me that tunes. Hickory, NC Thanks for y'alls inputs


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