So I just recently replaced my alternator and my tensioner pulley after the pulley on my alternator decided to literally blow up on me. Well after I put the parts on and everything. I could start the car and it would idle just fine and even run just fine but it would go into engine power reduce mode almost every 5 min. So trying to eliminate everything I can in cleaned the throttle body put it back together and and ran good but still went into engine power reduce. So then I tried to replace the mass airflow sensor witch mind you I have replaced a little over a year ago maybe closer to 2. But after installing the new one now the car will barely stay running and sound like crap and I have no pedal. I can’t even move it now. So after that I went and spent 100 dollars on a map sensor that goes onto the SC. Replaced that and same thing.... idk what to do now. Before I could atleast make it to work now I can’t even move it. Please if you can help I would really appreciate it thank you very much. I will try to attach a video

 

what codes are being set? it wont go into reduced engine power without setting a trouble code.

did you remove the blower to get the alternator out? how about the intake manifold?

 

I’m not sure about what codes but yes I took the supercharger off to get the alternator out. Now I can’t even get it to the parts store to rerun the codes. I also changed a clutch position switch but i don’t know what that would affect

 

You need to find out what the code is. It could be a million different things.

 

I’m currently waiting on a buddy to show up with his code reader since I can’t even move the car now. But a few days ago when I could at least start it and it run fine and drive it down the block before it went into engine power reduce mode I took it to o Reilly’s and had them check. There was a clutch switch code thrown and a bunch of throttle codes. And yes I did change the clutch switch it was a 10 dollar part and a 3 minute fix. Ps. I just started the car and stared unplugging sensors and all the sensors I unplugged made the car die except for the sensor on the throttle body. When I pull the throttle body sensor it didn’t change anything still sounded like crap and would barely run but it kept running and didn’t die like all the rest. I unplugged it and it literally did nothing.

 

unplugging sensors at random is not a way to diagnose any problem, all it does is create more trouble codes. at this point what you need to do is unhook the battery, and while its unhooked step on the brake pedal for 30 seconds. this will wipe the codes out of the computer so you can start fresh. before you start it again, check over all your connections and anything you may have touched, make sure everything is seated well, especially that throttle body connector. id actually unhook it and have a good look at the pins, make sure none are bent, then make sure you get it plugged on properly. at this point, start the car and let it run till it sets a code, and then go from there.

a little note on the clutch switch code, im guessing its p0833. its not causing any of your current problems, its really only used for cruise and gear prediction. if it only took you 3 minutes to change, you changed the wrong switch, there are 2 of them on the clutch pedal, the clutch start switch (the easy one to get) and the clutch pedal position sensor (on the top of the clutch pedal near the firewall and requires the steering column to be dropped). i wouldnt worry about dealing with it right now, that code is often falsely set and in reality its not actually a problem.

 

Yes it was the little switch you have to engage to start the car. That’s what o Reilly’s called it I’m sorry. But ya that’s what they gave me. But alright I will try to do what you say it’s just when I start it and let it run it sounds so bad and shakes a lot and seems like it’s gonna die but it doesn’t. And when I give it gas I get nothing it’s like the throttle isn’t even working

 

its possible you damaged the throttle body when you cleaned it. like i said, have a close look at the connector, both the wiring and throttle body sides.

 

Okay so I unhooked the battery pushed the brake for 30 seconds. Went over everything the connector doesn’t seem damaged and none of the prongs are bent. I went over everything I did. everything is connected and In good condition from what I can tell. So then I hooked it back up and started it and the same thing the engine light was on immediately. And it is still running horribly and when I push the gas every once in a while it will work but when I hold it it will only go to 4thousand rpm. I replaced the gas pedal about a year ago as well.

 

All I did to clean it was take it off and sprayed it down with throttle body cleaner. And used a toothbrush and rag to clean it up. I watched a bunch of videos and I don’t think I did anything out of the ordinary to mess it up but then again you never know I guess

 

It will be really hard to guess what's wrong till the codes are read. Once they're read, it may be easy to figure out what's wrong. It's prob best to wait till your buddy arrives before you try anything else.

 

So my so called buddy never showed up and never called me back. Quick question tho since I changed the alternator and put a new MAF sensor in it. Is it possible that the maf sensor is not adjusted right or whatever. Like maybe it is signaling more air than normal or less?? I have read a few places that people had the same problem and so they went and had there ecu flashed and it fixed it. Idk if maybe that is something I should do or not

 

I do what to thank you guys tho for taking time out of your day to help a guy in need I know we haven’t figured it out yet but i truly do appreciate you guys.

 

Your car should still run without a maf. Go on facebook and see if a friend has a scan tool that can check your codes. It's literally guesswork until the codes are read.

 

I am in the process now of trying to find someone with one then I will be sure to post the codes it’s threw

 

my recommendation would be to invest in a decent code reader. if you plan to work on any modern vehicles its pretty well a requirement to have one.

 

The ones the work with smart phone are relatively cheap as well. I have the OBD Link bluetooth and I use the damn thing all the time.

 

I will definitely see about getting one but in he mean time i need to find someone who lives around me with one due to financial problems at the moment. I have the money to fix what is wrong with the car I just don’t have any extra to buy it at the moment. But it is definitely going on my list of things to get one day lol but I have been reading through all of the threads on here and there was a guy with a problem similar to mine almost exact and he said it was a mass air flow sensor connector. And it would kind of make sense because it didn’t start acting the way it is now until I changed the maf sensor.

 

When your alternator pulley blew up did your belt or anything happen to get into the engine harness?

 

No the belt was perfectly fine. It ran perfect after I replaced the alternator and tensioner pulley. The only problem I had was it would go into engine power reduce mode. So I was doing things to try to fix it and when I cleaned the throttle body and put it back together it still ran fine but still went into engine power reduce mode. So then I changed the mass air flow sensor because I have a lifetime warranty on it. And after I put the new one in it it won’t go anywhere when I start it it shakes and idle all the way down like it’s gonna die then goes back up and then down and then up and when I give it gas nothing happens every once in a while it will rev up when I push the gas but it will only go to 4 thousand rpm and then back to no throttle

 

Every time you remove or mess with a different component you introduce a new variable. 95% of the time when you have a new problem after something was done to the car it is something that was caused by those actions. It would be a hell of a coincidence that your MAF, TB or any other sensors just randomly started to act up with no causation from the work that was done. It happens sometimes but is much more rare.

First thing to do is to review all the work you did to see what may have went wrong or see what problems could have been caused from the alternator pulley exploding. I'd recommend putting your old MAF back in and anything else you replaced to try and revert all the new variables you added as much as possible. Inspect your wires, connectors and connector pins as you go to see if there are any problems. If you are throwing TPS codes, your throttle isn't working, and you are in limp mode there is most likely something going on with TB or electrical system connecting it.

 

OK so my buddy showed up with the code reader cleared the codes. Plugged the old TPS sensor in it cleared them again. Plugged the newer TPS sensor in cleared codes again and bam now it’s running perfect I don’t understand this. I guess I will drive it a couple days and see what happens and I will keep you guys updated.

 

Okay update... took it for a drive it ran fine. I parked it for 30 min went to start it and bam same problem engine power reduce came on instantly. It’s throwing p2101,p1516,p2135

 

If you're having the same issue with two throttle bodies then you probably have an issue with the wires. If you don't see anything obvious you'll need to do some continuity checks to the PCM.

 

I’m talking about the throttle control sensor on the gas pedal is what we unplugged and tried the old one then plugged in the newer one