I thought you meant Throttle body when you were saying TPS (the TPS and TB are one unit in our cars). The p2101 and p1516 are dealing with the throttle body itself. You likely hosed something when you cleaned it, either the part itself or the wiring. Although the p2135 is saying there's something up with the pedal, too.

 

I’m sorry that’s my bad. But the pedal was replaced when I first got the car about a little over a year ago. That’s what I was meaning by the old one witch was on the car when I purchased it and the newer one is the one I purchased when I purchased the car. I wrapped a plastic bag over the entire sensor before I cleaned the throttle body but maybe some of the cleaner got through and into the plug?? I’m not sure.. since I have cleared the codes it’s seems to be running and idling fine now I’m back at we’re I was at first with it going into engine power reduce mode. Sometimes it won’t do it but most of the time it goes in to engine power reduce mode as soon as I start it but every once in a while I can start it make it up the block and then it will come on

 

Replace the throttle body

 

It's definitely something with your TB or pedal position sensors or the wiring that goes to them. Your car goes into limp mode for safety if it determines the drive by wire throttle isn't working like it is supposed to.

 

So I just replaced the maf sensor connector because I read in here somewhere that someone had the same problem and it ended up being that but of course my luck no. The only option I have left is the throttle body or the pedal. I guess I will replace the pedal first I just don’t know. I heard that if you touch the butterfly with your hand when cleaning it and can cause the throttle body to tell the ecu or ecm that it is stuck. Is this true?

 

Is there a possibility that when I took the supercharger off maybe he didn’t seed the right way or something and it’s causing a small air leak through it? I have put a new mass airflow sensor new air filter new MAP sensor that goes on top of the blower new tensioner pulley new mass airflow sensor connector. All of which did nothing to fix my problem. It almost seem to make it worse I would put the old MAF sensor back in it but unfortunately it’s gone because I had it warranted out

 

You didn't throw a maf code to cause you to go into limp mode. You threw throttle position sensor codes. Unless you can find faulty wiring, you need to replace the throttle body. Your pedal code is likely from unplugging the pedal. You won't make any progress in diagnosis until you replace the throttle body.


Have you cleared and checked codes again? Tac module, APP and throttle body codes need to keep you focused on these areas only. There's no reason to stray outside of it for now. Make sure the pedal is plugged in. Check the pins in the connector, since it's been unplugged a few times. Check wiring from the pedal to the tac module. Check wiring from tac to throttle body. Check pins and connectors at the throttle body. If all checks good, and all codes exist, you need a scanner or meter to check operation of each component.

 

OK so last night I took the throttlebody back off re-cleaned it and made sure not to touch it put it back on Held the break for 30 seconds Then reconnected the battery it fired right up and ran good all night woke up this morning made it down the block and the engine reduce power came back on. It seems to do it when it’s cold now cop then reconnected the battery it fired right up and ran good all night woke up this morning made it down the block and the engine reduce power came back on. It seems to do it when it’s cold now It idols just fine besides when I first started up it’s kind of bumpy but it evens out after a few seconds. Once the car is warmed up it seems to run fine and it doesn’t seem to go into engine power reduced mode. Although I haven’t really gave it much gas because I’m afraid if it goes into the high rpm’s it might engage the engine power reduced

 

Did you check codes?

 

Yes I checked the codes after clearing them and the first time I checked there were 5 codes but like I said I have been throwing parts at this thing left and right and never got the codes cleared until now. It after I cleared the 5 codes I started it up there was no check engine light so I let it run until the light came on so after like 30 seconds the light came back on so I then checked the codes once more. This time only 1 code is found and it is code p2135 (throttle/pedal position sensor/switch A/B voltage correlation) I don’t know if that is the pedal or the throttle body sensor. I do know that if I unhook the negative terminal off the battery and then unhook both the throttle body sensor and the pedal sensor and then hold the brake for 30 seconds and hook everything back up that it will fire right up no engine light no nothing. I drove all night last night with no engine light and then this morning I go to get in it and immediately I got a engine light and a engine power reduce message...

 

Also can someone please tell me what the sensor on top of the super charger is?? I thought is was the map sensor because when I went and asked for a map sensor from o Reilly’s it looked the exact same as the one on top of the supercharger. Even had the orange rubber on the nipple of it and everything. I didn’t put the wrong sensor in the wrong spot did I? Please help.. I have been working on this car way to much in the past 2 weeks my brain is getting scrambled

 

This is the one I replaced that’s on top of the supercharger

This is the one that is just hanging there like there is nothing attached to the nipple on the bottom of it

And this is one that is in between the radiator and the super charger on the left side by the pullys like under the fuel rail kinda

 

Supercharger inlet pressure sensor
barometric pressure
Map sensor

In order of the pictures

 

That’s weird Because when I asked o Reilly’s for the map sensor I guess they gave me the Supercharger inlet pressure sensor. Because the one they sold me is the exact same as the supercharger sensor

 

UPDATE! so I think I narrowed it down to two possibilities. Either the throttle body itself or the wire harness/connector to the throttle body. I unhooked the Battery then unhook the pedal sensor held a brake for 30 seconds hooked everything back up tried to start it and it still one in the engine power reduced mode. So then I unhook the battery again and instead of unhooking the pedal sensor I unhook the throttlebody sensor and held the brake for 30 seconds And hooked everything back up started it and boom no engine light nothing no engine power reduced runs fine. Until it cools down at least

 

Replace the throttle body

 

Probably your throttle body. That code basically means the throttle is not opening to the position the ECU is expecting compared to pedal position.

Something you could try is turn your ignition on but engine off and press the throttle pedal and set up a camera or have someone watch to see if the TB blade is opening and closing like it is supposed to. I'm not sure it will help with anything but it would be interesting to see what it does.

 

You'll really save a lot of time by replacing the throttle body. You've reached the end of the road in diagnosing. There's nothing left to prove. Put a throttle body on it and drive the car.

 

Ordering the new throttle body now from zzp. It’s the factory throttle body that way I know it will work considering the car is bone stock. And the one that is on it is the original so I’m am just on a replace with the same exact gm original equipment. I am having it overnighted so I will let you guys know what happens tomorrow as soon as I get it. Any tips or advice on what to do when replacing it or anything would be greatly appreciated. I just want to make sure I do everything right and I’m order. Thank guys I appreciate all of you for your time and effort to help me

 

Ok

 

ok so I did what you said and as soon as the key engaged the butterfly closed but it was like vibrating a lot like as if it was try to go back and forth or something really fast. When I pushed the gas it seems to open all the way but when it closes it sounds like it is jammed or something and you can hear it vibrating and like shaking back and forth. Is it supposed to be like that? I’m not sure how to upload a video on here or I would upload it. If anyone know how let me know please and thank you. But ya I’m not sure if it is suppose to do that

 

here is the link to the video. Please watch it and let me know what you think. Thank you very much

 

I don't know how much vibration is acceptable. I have a standalone ECU so when I setup my throttle body I can manually configure my voltage gain and fine tune feedback to make the throttle body behave properly. Based on your video I'd assume I could make your TB work fine with my setup, however when you cleaned the TB you may have tweaked something beyond the acceptable parameters defined in your stock ECU.

The TB blade is connected to a spring that holds it in middle as you see it rest when the car is off. There is a motor connected which the ECU sends a specific voltage to overcome the spring force to move the blade and equal the spring force to hold it in a specific position. You also have two throttle position sensors in the throttle body that send feedback to the ECU so that it can make minor adjustments to the voltage when the throttle blade isn't exactly were it is supposed to be. No throttle body is exactly the same and there are other factors like environment and wear that may change the voltage required to hold the blade in the same position over time. The vibration you show in your video looks like feedback and over-correction. The blade doesn't close to where it is supposed to then the ECU attempts to correct by applying more voltage but it's too much so it overshoots the position then it drops voltage and springs back to far and it gets stuck in this back a forth loop.

I've heard of a throttle body learn procedure which is when your ECU supposedly records and I assume makes minor tweaks to the voltage gain values and possibly the feedback gain. I have never done this procedure but it may be worth trying.

 

I have tried to do some research on the re learn process but everyone says something different. If you would happen to know a site or have a link to a good source on how to do the re learn process that would be really awesome. Because I am sure I will have to do that with the new one

 

Considering all of the grief you are going through right now, wouldn't having the GM technician manuals come in really handy????