I believe the sticky above should be deleted or modified as it is not the real answer to the issue.

First off the reason the dipstick is popping out is due to excessive crankcase pressure. The best way to relieve this pressure is by doing the following.

1. Make sure the pcv line running from the back of the valve cover to the intake is connected.
2. Tap the oil cap and run a line to a catch can. You can also use a catch can on the v/c to intake line if you would like.

This is going to relieve the excessive crankcase pressure without having unmetered air.

Myths
1. Putting a breather on the back of the valve cover is good and will solve this. - INCORRECT

When you put a breather on the back of the valve cover all you are doing is letting air escape from the valve cover and into the atmosphere, yes you are releasing some of the crankcase pressure, but this is not the correct way to do it. Doing it this way makes tuning more difficult and can give you pcm codes for unmetered air.

2. Taking the line off the valve cover to intake - INCORRECT!

The line is there from the factory for a reason, relieve the pressure while putting it back into the intake. Taking this line off will also result in oil seepage / burning oil / loss of oil etc. The little filters people put on the back I have seen been soaked in oil and all clogged up which in results actually created more crankcase pressure.

3. Upgraded intake manifold gasket solves the issue. - INCORRECT!

The new gasket helps out slightly, but is not the end all be all that people were hoping for. The correct way of allowing this engine to exhale and inhale *the same air* is through catch cans and the pcv line. The upgraded gasket does have a better sealing surface around the pcv orifice however it's still not enough for some higher boosting applications.


If you would like a picture to what this looks like here you go. Area47 was giving us the answer the entire time, some people just failed to listen.


I will also post more pics of catch cans that people are running off of there v/c to intake. You guys can feel free to post yours too!

 

That's interesting.. I usually only see them mounted on the line between the intake and the valve cover.

How was the tap on top of the oil cap made?

And realistically, if oil is going to blow out, it is going to take the easiest route, and seeing as how the oil cap is the highest tap on the valve cover, it would need a ton of pressure, which leads me to my next point.. The tap on the back of the valve cover is lower therefore the oil is going to take that path first as it's much closer.

 

This should def be a sticky, I was gonna use a billet ecotec cap and tap that, then t into the pcv line and then into the intake or ctach can if you have one

 

a lot of people have issues further than this where their pcv system can't carry enough airflow due to hose size limitations, hence why the gm build book calls for a larger nipple on the VC.

 

You guys make some very valid points that I will clear up / add information too.

The gm build book does say to upgrade the pcv line, however the best way of doing all of this is as follows.

1. Using the valve cover cap to -an10 fitting *i will provide a link once I find it*, run a -10an line from the top of the valve cover to the catch can.
2. Weld in a -10an fitting on the back of the valve cover and connect a -10an line into the catch can.
3. Purchase a DUAL INLET catch can with -10an fittings with a SINGLE outlet that is -10an. Then simply connect the -10an line to your cold air intake, feel free to put a -10an bung in the cold air intake to thread it in.

So basically the system should look something like this.


2 -10an lines running, both from the valve cover, one on the cap, one on the back and a single -10an line running to the cold air intake.

Upgrading the lines allows for better flow, running both lines being the oil cap and rear valve cover lines ensures that you are releasing the maximum amount of crankcase pressure. Even our stock boosted cars have issues with crank case pressure, imagine what its like running 25+ psi?

Also someone mentioned the oil cap tapping might not be worth it etc, this is not the case. Pressure will release from the path of least resistance / easiest route that it can take. The pressure is coming up from several different areas and can be released both from the rear and the top of the valve cover at the same time. With this being said, it's the most efficient to tap both, however you can only tap the rear and get away with it usually.

 

Here is the link for the valve cover fitting. This is what you use as your oil cap, run a -10an line off of it and into the catch can.

http://www.metcomotorsports.com/prod...d=MBR0003-10AN

 

Figured this was worth mentioning, I know some LSx engines were having problems with cc pressure, and GM released a "vented oil fill cap" P/N 12589430 for the application that is basically a check valve that lets air escape the crank case when there is pressure, but does not let air come into the crank case (hence the check valve). I used this on my LSJ (the cap fits) along with the oem rear vent hose and I haven't seen any dipstick/oil issues. I also modified the spring in the cap so when there was basically any pressure it would open and vent.

 

you're a little behind the game. thanks for posting an old pic of my car.

 

I am not behind the game, the forum is. People keep asking the same questions and keep trying to reinvent the wheel when you gave the answer so long ago. I figured making the information you and others have provided into a sticky would help people understand the issues. You are welcome for using the pic of your car, hope you don't mind lol.

 

Area, have you modified your PCV setup since that picture?

 

Yes he did...... it no longer vented from the oil cap

 

i did that 2 years ago after i did cams in it. gm did it in 04 and wrote a book with it included in there. people are lazy and want to be spoon fed. this is why i never posted timing maps, the real 60lb map and 98lb maps. i will NOT spoon feed anyone on here.

yep. i sold the car


went to a sealed system with a -10an out of the head to a catch can set up lsx style. then a -10an to the ottp intake.

 

I thought tony made the 98lber map and gave it out with every purchase along with other info. I know he does now at least.

 

no, tony didn't. paul yaw and myself created the map.

 

most of the time its a cracked piston

 

Well damn I have been giving credit to the wrong people, well partially that is. I always thought it was just Paul and Tony that had there hands in that map. Didn't realize a forum member helped out more then Tony did haha. I am actually picking up a set here shortly, any suggestions or tips? Not asking to be spoon fed as that annoys me just as much as it does you, but is there anything out of the ordinary when tuning them?

Also, while I am bugging you area47 can you tell me more about your fuel system? I noticed that you upgraded your fuel pump and you are running the return style fuel system on the tvs. I have also read in threads that you are running e85. My question to you is at what point did you have to upgrade the fuel system besides the injectors. AKA can I run 1000cc injectors on a stock fuel system and X pulley? I know the 2.9 maxes out on 80lbers from research and testing, but with the 1000cc's im sure the 2.9 and probably even a 2.8 would be fine.

From what Tony has been telling me though, it would be ideal to get the return style fuel system AND a brfps so that fuel pressure increases 1:1 after our ecu stops "reading" above 17.5 lbs of boost as zzp says. I haven't heard you talk much about zzp's or anyones brfps, is it needed?

Last question, if you choose to answer, do you know the limit of your fuel system? Meaning what is the smallest pulley on your tvs that you are capable of running without compromising fuel pressure/ratio's etc.

PS: Are you still running the meth kit with e85, I knew you were back in the day to help rev out further, but what about now on the 98lbers and what not.

Thanks for all of your advice / input if you choose to answer any of these questions, if not it's cool I have noticed this forum is very secretive.

 

as it sits right now. i do not own the car anymore. i still remember enough.

 

What rpm was that at? The 80% on the 98lbers with a 2.6 that is. Also what rpm did you normally rev to when "beating" on it so to speak or "racing" etc. I know you had 78lbers but I am curious to know if you ever took her to 8k on the dyno to see if it made power all the way through and or how it effects our cars without nbs.

PS: It's kind of funny that you can take a 5k ton truck and make it run better times then some of these kids can haha.

 

8k rev limit
peak power at 7800

three mods. and i can hand 90% of this forum it's ass. then tow a boat. i love my truck

 

How often would you say the car hit 8k? Did it handle 8k just fine without the shafts? Notice any extra ware and tare and or have to replace anything due to it? I really want to bounce her up to 8k with nothing but the valve springs but I don't know, currently I rev out to 7200 and she is pulling all the way through and I haven't had any issues, what are your thoughts?

90% of this forum could have 350whp and still run 14s lol

 

depends on the miles of the motor itself. i rarely went to 8k even with nbs's. no point. didn't make power up there. when the overspeed light came on at 7600 i shifted.

 

Thanks again Bryan for the tips on the 98's. I got them running pretty smooth under normal driving conditions with what little I drove it a few weeks ago. Idle is suprisingly smooth compared to any other injectors Ive run besides stock. Still have a lot of work to do but its getting somewhere

I still have to weld my -10an fitting on the back of my VC and get ahold of a catch can, but I may as well wait until my head shows up then do that and the swap at the same time.

 

there is still some tricks to be had with them on e.

 

Oh Im sure there is. It will be a slow process, but im just happy im making some sort of progress lol

 

So if i understand you guys correctly. We should take a line from the back of the valve cover ( where the pvc line is already just increase it in size ?? ) and ALSO tap the OIL cap and put a line in the top op the cap. Then run BOTH lines into a catch can that has two inlets. Then hook the outlet up to the intake ? Say on a stock intake where the line from the valve cover hooks into ( just with a larger diameter hose ?? )...