Disable the Supercharger
Ok, I have a strange question... I have an 07 ss/sc in stock form atm. I figured out that I could prevent the supercharger from generating boost by disconnecting the linkage on the bypass valve and tying the valve in the open position. So here is the question.
How much of a caniption is the computer going to have?
The diaphram will still move, the computer will still read proper presure range from the MAP, and the excess air being pushed by the SC will simply re-circulate in the intake, just not generate any boost.
This is my first "car", first 4 cyl, and first fuel injected motor to boot, I am used to v-8s and 4x4's so please forgive my newbieness. Now before I get flamed for doing the opposite of what everyone else it trying to do (get more power) here's my reasoning, on occasion I am forced to lend out my car to a co-worker and my boss. I don't want anyone other than me beating on my car.
Also in winter it should make the HP curve more linear and therfor less twitchy by slowing the throttle response. I will be learning how to drive a 2wd car in winter and want to start out on something gutless, then later in the winter I will reconnect the linkage and enable the supercharger.
Any thoughts and comments besides "man this guy is an idiot" I hear that enough already
How much of a caniption is the computer going to have?
The diaphram will still move, the computer will still read proper presure range from the MAP, and the excess air being pushed by the SC will simply re-circulate in the intake, just not generate any boost.
This is my first "car", first 4 cyl, and first fuel injected motor to boot, I am used to v-8s and 4x4's so please forgive my newbieness. Now before I get flamed for doing the opposite of what everyone else it trying to do (get more power) here's my reasoning, on occasion I am forced to lend out my car to a co-worker and my boss. I don't want anyone other than me beating on my car.
Also in winter it should make the HP curve more linear and therfor less twitchy by slowing the throttle response. I will be learning how to drive a 2wd car in winter and want to start out on something gutless, then later in the winter I will reconnect the linkage and enable the supercharger.
Any thoughts and comments besides "man this guy is an idiot" I hear that enough already
well, i would suggest not stepping on the gas pedal so hard. you can accelerate through the gears without hitting any boost at all. and if you think your boss or co-worker or whoever is beating on your car, tell them they can't use it anymore. problem solved.
Ok, I have a strange question... I have an 07 ss/sc in stock form atm. I figured out that I could prevent the supercharger from generating boost by disconnecting the linkage on the bypass valve and tying the valve in the open position. So here is the question.
How much of a caniption is the computer going to have?
The diaphram will still move, the computer will still read proper presure range from the MAP, and the excess air being pushed by the SC will simply re-circulate in the intake, just not generate any boost.
This is my first "car", first 4 cyl, and first fuel injected motor to boot, I am used to v-8s and 4x4's so please forgive my newbieness. Now before I get flamed for doing the opposite of what everyone else it trying to do (get more power) here's my reasoning, on occasion I am forced to lend out my car to a co-worker and my boss. I don't want anyone other than me beating on my car.
Also in winter it should make the HP curve more linear and therfor less twitchy by slowing the throttle response. I will be learning how to drive a 2wd car in winter and want to start out on something gutless, then later in the winter I will reconnect the linkage and enable the supercharger.
Any thoughts and comments besides "man this guy is an idiot" I hear that enough already

How much of a caniption is the computer going to have?
The diaphram will still move, the computer will still read proper presure range from the MAP, and the excess air being pushed by the SC will simply re-circulate in the intake, just not generate any boost.
This is my first "car", first 4 cyl, and first fuel injected motor to boot, I am used to v-8s and 4x4's so please forgive my newbieness. Now before I get flamed for doing the opposite of what everyone else it trying to do (get more power) here's my reasoning, on occasion I am forced to lend out my car to a co-worker and my boss. I don't want anyone other than me beating on my car.
Also in winter it should make the HP curve more linear and therfor less twitchy by slowing the throttle response. I will be learning how to drive a 2wd car in winter and want to start out on something gutless, then later in the winter I will reconnect the linkage and enable the supercharger.
Any thoughts and comments besides "man this guy is an idiot" I hear that enough already

im still all for telling them to **** off lol... thats just me and driving these cars in the snow isnt that bad.. i did it with bald summer tires last year lol.. i wouldnt recomend any thing over like an inch tho lol
you can wire open the bypass valve, or through hpt, you can remove all boost through the ecm.
also, it will not throw a fit. it will just be slow. this will also cause you to run stupid rich at wide open unless compensated for it.
also, it will not throw a fit. it will just be slow. this will also cause you to run stupid rich at wide open unless compensated for it.
Last edited by Area47; Sep 28, 2007 at 02:32 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
nod... you better be ready to tune it... gonna be all sorts of fucked up removing air thats expected from the equation...
might as well add this to the shiney post

to the op. when you disable the blower, you're not taking into effect what happens when you enter PE, or wot mode. it is going to dump fuel, it's not going to be happy.
tape a block of wood under the pedal. or just realize you have a warranty for a reason.
to the op. when you disable the blower, you're not taking into effect what happens when you enter PE, or wot mode. it is going to dump fuel, it's not going to be happy.
tape a block of wood under the pedal. or just realize you have a warranty for a reason.
yea im pretty sure you can use a boost controller.. and i think someone had done it actually... serves no purpose but he did it lol..
sure its belt driven but there is a bybass valve.. works just like a wastegate..
sure its belt driven but there is a bybass valve.. works just like a wastegate..
Last edited by 0redline6; Sep 28, 2007 at 06:04 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Fuuuuck people.... yes you can use a boost controller....
I had my buddies Apex-i Avc-r in my car for a week... it controls boost very well.
And no... making the super not boost won't mess with the car at all... like I said, I dove with a boost controller for a week.... most of the daily driving was done with the boost set to zero. Actually, under heavy throttle, the by-pass valve can't keep up, so you still see about 3-5psi in the manifold.
I had my buddies Apex-i Avc-r in my car for a week... it controls boost very well.
And no... making the super not boost won't mess with the car at all... like I said, I dove with a boost controller for a week.... most of the daily driving was done with the boost set to zero. Actually, under heavy throttle, the by-pass valve can't keep up, so you still see about 3-5psi in the manifold.



