bulkhead fitting would work.

 

i thought about that, but i cant get inside the reservoir

 

well it seems the secret is to use the cheap carflex connectors at lowes (the ones u gotta use a hose clamp to put the carflex on instead of the better ones u just put the carflex on and tighten) this is an electrical product made to keep water out but in this case keep it in. i did that today and cut out alittle square cut out with cardboard so the epoxy dont run everywhere and put a good coat around each connector and this time no leak so far lol

 

http://www.ecotecforum.com/forums/sh...-Endplate-(LSJ)

they routed the colant lines different in this diagram whats the right way to route them?

 

I used the zzp diagram and it works great it seems like the flow is much stronger also

 

how long does it take to install option b and a dual pass?

 

I'm gonna say about 4 hours if you've never done it before

 

the dual pass is rough. time consuming the first time. If you dont have much mechanic experience I will tell you to use caution.

 

So i finally got my dual pass an option b from ZZP today. Quick option b question. I know the bottom fitting runs to the t fitting in the diagram. But at the top of the tank there is another smaller fitting. Where does that run to? I'm guessing the heat exchanger? Does it have to be hooked up to it or is the one 3/4" fitting going to the T as per the diagram good enough?

 

it goes where the plug is in the top that tube is where the orifice goes. make sure its sealed my wasnt and it wasnt bleeding all the way ......far left on top cant miss it

 

sub'd i will definitely need this in the future

 

You're talking on the stock heat exchanger correct? Where do i put the .40 orface in the tube? Near the tank or at the bottom by the exchanger?

 

mines by the h/e youve gotta have the right fitting for the top of the h/e. yes im talking about the stock one btw. I'm not an expert by any means just repeating what ive been told

 

I was looking at the instructions on crate engine depot and i see exactly where you mean. The kit from ZZP came with a fitting to put in the heat exchanger. It looks thats where the .40 orface goes too. Thanks

 

yepp np. make sure thats an air tight seal mine wasnt bleeding and there was a tiny drop or two of coolant there its was a micro leak

 

I'll teflon tape the **** out of it lol

 

I did this but with a cobra heat exchanger....does it matter if you use the higher opening on heat exchanger for the in and the lower for the out?

 

No it doesnt matter

 

Thanks.....just gonna wait for it to bleed itself all out then....my temps are just a little higher after installing. How long should it take for it to bleed through? Installed Wednesday night....I drive about 12 miles each way to work for the last 2 days.....

 

It's very hard to bleed the system completly without an option b. Just gotta drive and keep topping it up. An option b is the best thing i bought. The whole system bled itself in 5 miles of driving.

 

i have option B....plumbed it just like the diagram.....only diff is i used the upper opening to run into the front mount from stock h/e and the lower opeing to run out of front mount into the endplate on manifold.....

 

Oops sorry didnt read you're mods haha. Mine bled instantly. Maybe its something in the plumbing? Mine is routed exactly like the diagram

 

I'll have to check a couple of the joints where i pieced hosing together.....i had to finish it up in a hurry and was unable to go purch a couple more connectors so I used smaller diameter hosing to use as a connector....i'm not noticing any leaks really but could be impeding flow.....

 

Are you able to watch the coolant flow through the bleeder hose going from the top of the stock exchanger to the tank?

 

No....i was able to before installing front mount.....