Ok, I know I've posted some threads on this but here is the thing. My dealership wants to charg me 312 dollars installation which is 4 hours. I know that isn't that bad. But for 635 dollars....is the dual pass gonna be worth it. I mean thats rediculous.

So I was thinking of not using the dealership. Would you guys reccomend this? I want the work to be warrantied (my car isn't under warranty anymore). But I am scared joe blow ina shop will mess something up. Is this a risky install????

 

Holy ****....Do it yourself.

 

It should be worth it

 

I'm terrible with tools. Like beyond your belief. I'm always scared to screw something up. I would actually use the term Chicken ****. But I have no experience at all. my buddy that normally helps me out and has a garage with every tool under the sun is copping out. I've always just paid him like 50 bucks to give me a hand for a few hours. He has a gagage with all the tools under the sun. Plus he has a very reliable turbocharged integra...so he has aftermarket experience.

Anybody within two hours of southeast alabama wanna install my exchanger and dual pass for 100 bucks?? lol

 

I wont lie, it took me two days and a trip to the ER to get it done, it was a total pain in the ass

I'm not a newb either, this is def not for beginners

 

Damn, took me about 6 hours but it wasn't that bad when you add a 18 pack and a good friend. Oh yea, we also had a lift but i could of done it without one.

 

Listen your buddy crapped out on you, rodimus prime went to the ER, even with the special tools the clamps are epoxied to the hoses, the forum is full of guys who ahve stripped the s/c bolts and f****d the whole deal up. I did mine in a race shop. Go to the dealer, fork over 312 bucks and save the aggravation and visits to the ER. Some things, especially when you say you are not mechanically gifted, well its best to pay the man who knows how to do it. His 20+ years of experience are worth more than your mistakes. IMHO

 

Just install the other h/e and forget the dual pass. It won't be ideal but it will at least reduce temps 10-15degs. (secret message: you don't really need the extra h/e with your mods)

 

I have to speak up here. All the data in testing shows what is intuitively obvious. If there is air in the aftercooler system, you can have an h/e the size of a house, it wont help. Air is the enemy of the after cooling system; the stock coolant reservoir is not good enough for anything other than pure stock and then barely so. GM came up with Option B for a good reason it fixes the air issue with a self bleeding system that holds more coolant, and flipping the laminova tubes and recirculating the coolant more effectively is a good thing. Please dont advise innocent guys with measures like forgetting Option B and dual pass, as that alone forgetting a larger h/e fixes the air entrainment issue...IMHO based on real data...

 

with 19 post I would think you would have chosen your words more carefully. I have a 2.9 pulley ona stage 2 tune. I know that cooling always helps. Not always "needed", but always helps.

Its not like I saw one and thought it looked cool...otherwise I would have rims by now with a drop, a drift spoiler, and some HIDS/projectors.

 

Well if you can't do the install yourself for the dual pass then just install the other h/e because any monkey with a drill can do it and it shouldn't take more than an hour and a half to do. If you want to front at least 300 bucks to do a cooling mod that won't reduce your temperatures any more than simply installing the other h/e then go ahead, no one is going to do it for any less.

Also running a 2.9 doesn't warrant any cooling mods regardless of what people tell you though go lower and you should as well as upgrade to 60's. Yeah 140 degrees is better than 150 degrees but it's not going to make your car "perform" any better (ie faster). Yeah if you reduce temp it will reduce wear on your engine but if you wanted a car that lasts 100k+ miles you wouldn't be doing any modifications and you'd be driving a honda.

It's your car, it's up to you. People have been running 2.8s on the canned stage 2 tune for over 20k miles without any cooling mods and aren't having any problems so...your choice.

 

hey this is the last word i will have on this thread. the deal with aftercooling is to STOP THE CAR SLOWING DOWN as it makes power. Without option B even a stock car will slow down on the highway at constant speed on a hot day in Texas or wherever...due to heat buildup and the resulting spark reduction...override the spark control to stop it pulling spark when the IAT's get too high andyou will nuke your motor...check out Ralliartist's record....with just cooling mods. the end...I'm done now...

 

the local race shop has dyno proven that cooling mods can be the best bang for buck on these cars as it allows the ecu to give full power without retarding timing. get as much as you can afford.

As compared to a cold engine theres no power add, but after youve heatsoaked the hell out of the engine, its worth it. I have a 2.9 as well with a dual pass+B and cxr h/e. just my 2 cents.

Dual pass install is not for the newbie. expect lots of cursing, scraped up knuckles, more cursing, head scratching over hidden bolts, and ability to craft your own bracketry/hose routing.