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Engine temp very low.

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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 06:32 PM
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steele6794's Avatar
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Engine temp very low.

I've had this problem for the last two winters, and brought it in to get fixed three times. In the cold weather(40f or lower about) my car will not warm up at all while driving. Idling it will but as soon as you start to drive it will drop dramatically. In 30 degree weather while driving I'm lucky if the car will get to 120f.

Problem only happens when it's cold.

Check engine light comes on after a while and the code is p0128. Had the thermostat replaced last year, and they also told me they replaced the engine coolant sensor, but I could be mistaken.

Had the car reflashed by GM

And just picked it up again today. They told me it was the thermostat again. Five minutes down the road my car was still at 93 degrees ha. So obviously it's not fixed and going to throw another code.

Any ideas?

P.S. my fans do not seem to be running when idling . Can't tell when I'm driving though.
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 06:35 PM
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From: troy oh
thermostat
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 06:37 PM
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I would try another Thermostat, maybe the 1st one was faulty? My car JUST threw that code last week. I haven't had the time to replace it yet.
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 06:37 PM
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mine used to run really low then i put a huge front mount on and it stays warm now when im driving lol
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 06:39 PM
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Thermostat. Who cares if gm put a new one in. Maybe the forgot to put one back in lol
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 08:37 PM
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Damn it! It couldn't possibly be anything else?

Thank you for the responses.
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 08:43 PM
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If your in the cold, you can put a piece of cardbord to block the airflow over part of the radiator. Similar concept to what the big semi trucks do with that canvis in front. This will keep you from overcooling the engine. Just make sure you dont block TOO Much. But i agree with the other people, check your thermostadt. You can test them in a pot of water on your stove with a thermometer if you want.
I used to have a 1993 Dodge Shadow, that would go through thermostadts almost annually.
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 09:24 PM
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Obstructing radiator flow is not the correct way to solve this, get a thermostat
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 09:32 PM
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Got to run out and it would be nice to come home to a link haha

Is there a "how to' on replacing the thermostat?
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 10:42 PM
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I'm having the exact same problem, brother. I would love to see another solution other than replacing thermostats every other week.
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 10:46 PM
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From: Vine Grove Kentucky
if you are staying cold with a new thermostat are you guys sure your not getting a 160 thermostat because they do sale them for our car.
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 11:46 PM
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^ Exactly. Make sure it is the OEM 180°F spec.
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 12:15 AM
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I'd be happy if my car got to 160 haha.

On the way home tonight my car was driving at 88 degrees after 10 minutes.

BTW the outside temp is 32 degrees where I am.
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 12:23 AM
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From: Vine Grove Kentucky
it sounds as if you dont even have a damn thermostat, when u turn the heater on is it warm at all like if it were at 160+ if so then gauge is bad or pcm is bad.
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Chevycobaltss3
it sounds as if you dont even have a damn thermostat, when u turn the heater on is it warm at all like if it were at 160+ if so then gauge is bad or pcm is bad.
No, the "heat" is borderline cold and warm at best.

All I know is that they replaced the thermostat last year because it was stuck open, and they replaced it again yesterday, because it was stuck open.

If the weather were 50 degrees today the car would heat up perfectly, and stay that way during driving, idling, or whatever.
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 09:24 AM
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Hmm.. Strange because I am almost in the same position.. Ever since it's been getting colder, my car doesn't get to the normal 190°F temp, it hardly goes above 160 for that matter.

I was going to replace the thermostat, but if that doesn't fix it then I'm stuck in the same boat as you.
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 09:45 AM
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Well guys it sounds like either three of these issues. One when they installed ure thermostat they installed a lower heat range stat. Two they used more water to make a 20/80 coolant mix and its causing ure stat to break the spring. Three ure stat just went bad again or they installed it backwards.....
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Chevycobaltss3
Well guys it sounds like either three of these issues. One when they installed ure thermostat they installed a lower heat range stat. Two they used more water to make a 20/80 coolant mix and its causing ure stat to break the spring. Three ure stat just went bad again or they installed it backwards.....

Just wondering: If it's installed backwards, wouldn't the heat sensing canister part, be on the cold side of the valve? Thus makeing the engine have to get even HOTTER before it starts to open? Unless the water flow is pushing against the spring like a check valve.

It would be interesting to see what they do with a car under warranty with this problem though.....
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by lsjion
Obstructing radiator flow is not the correct way to solve this, get a thermostat
You're correct, however I ment it as a tempory solution, however it DOES help keep the engine warm and within operating tempature.


And sometimes it IS nesscary in extreme cold conditions. (That the OP are not in however)
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 01:38 PM
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If coolant flow is goiing against a reversed thermostat it will cause it to over heat unless ure pressure is outstandingly high then it can open the stat itself.I've seen it happen.
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