well after having my LT for a year, i ve decided on getting the ss s/c. you guys have any advice about the car? this will be my very 1st f/i car. i ve never paid that much attention to the 2.0 threads. so know i ve started reading them...and theres a lot to read!!!! so you guys have any DOs and DON'Ts with the car? is the breaking in period the same with the ss s/c as with the LT (500 miles babying it). any and all advice will be helpful! thanks guys

 

well being that it is a production vehilce.. it will work just like a production vehilce, no extra maintence required.

only word of caution, if you sense wheel hop, let off the throttle quick!

 

^^^ word

 

Get a G85!! I would give it closer to 1000 miles then change the oil and your good to go.

 

thats one thing that i ve read about. but is wheel hop only going around corners really fast or can it happen from a stop?

 

wheel hop can hit you any time you get on it at low speeds... turning or straight...

 

but once you learn to drive the car you can avoid it?

 

My thoughts are get an ingalls ETD, adjust it tight and right, then call it a day for wheelhop.

 

Yeah, i recently got an ingalls, and theres no wheelhop anymore. I still want to stiffen it up some more too

 

so i guess this should be in my top 5 mods! is this all the ingalls are used for?
never mind i found the some answers:
Benefits:
Greatly improved off-the-line acceleration Reduced wheel hop
Improved vehicle stability
Reduced shock loads on driveline components
Smoother shifting
Reduced wear on exhaust system joints
Less vibration transmission to the driver compared to polyurethane motor mounts.
Less shock load, compared to torque straps and chains.
Drifting – helps reduce shock loads when wheels gain traction.
Reduces motor movement – decreases the chance of motor parts rubbing against the hood and frame.

 

i'm not sure of the common belief in this forum but i'm gonna give my opinion on the break in anyway.
motors are machined a lot more precisely than they used to be, closer tolerances and materials that are far superior than the time when the accepted break in method was started. cylinders are honed using a cross-hatch pattern, with the pistons going up and down in the cylinders the rings rub against this cross-hatch pattern. the cylinders work like a file against the rings. you only get one chance to break it in. by babying the car for the first 500-1000 miles or whatever anyones method is, doesn't make use of this "file" in the cylinders. you need to vary rpm, some wot, some high rev shifts, lots of stop and go. not varying rpm will hinder later performance, you should drive the car how you intend on driving it later. the rings rely on equalized pressure, not their on strength. i don't feel like writing a novel, but if anyone would like links to sites where people have done studies on this say so and i will post them. things become obsolete, people once thought the world was flat and our planet was the center of our galaxy.

 

^There s an article about that somewhere? Anyone got a link? The first ten miles are most important too.
What other things do we need to worry about except oil changes?

 

here you go... this guys done more research than anybody, so maybe this is the one you saw
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

i have an ingalls too, its downfall is that its a single, the left side of the engine gets all the support, it could cause twisting.

 

this is about avoiding wheel hope, any responses to this?

 

yeah im gonna agree with breaking it in like wesessiah said, i broke mine in like that, i drove it like i was gonna drive it. With 3,000 miles on the odo and still on my first oil change, i put down 236 WHP, and thats with zero mods.

 

i hit 120 on the way home from the dealership with 2 miles on my car, lol. but i don't have a balt

 

i just recently got a cobalt its plain right now but have future plans

 

hmm, any advice huh? how about ya not get killed and **** up the car in the process, also, remember to have fun! Enjoy.

 

I get wheel hop in straight acceleration in my base balt, so I could not imagine how bad it can get in the ss/sc...that is if you don't know how to cage the beast.

 

There is no break in period requried on new cars. Trust me, by the time you get the car (even if it says it only has 5 miles on it) those rings are already sealed. To prove this point I compression tested my ecotec when I got it off the truck (.8miles on it)...Compression tested it again at 1000 miles (when i did my first oil change) and noticed absolutly no change.

 

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
No offense, but i think i trust that guy more. Hes tested way more than one car.

 

Art, let me know before you buy the car. I'd like to talk to you about it. Its all good.

 

huh? i m aiming for next friday to get my new car! yaHOO! btw Doc, maybe i ll beable to get my DC strut bar on the new car, since i never got it on my LT

huh? wheel hop on your base? i m a fast accelerator with my bolt and i ve never experienced it! when i say fast accelerator i mean 0~60 as fast as my 'bolt well get me there!

 

I have a buddy who is salesman...he owes me.
I thought he could help you out...unless you have a deal elsewhere.