Well, my winter project is to get forged pistons so I can run more boost safely (now turbo, btw- check sig) I have done some searching and have found that I'm gonna need:

Forged Diamond Pistons w/ pin & locks (duh)
Piston rings
ARP/Golden Eagle head studs
Cometic headgasket

Now, I have also heard I'm going to need but I'm not sure...

New Rod Cap bolts
New Cam gear bolts (if so, why?)
New Crank pulley bolts
New Valve cover gasket

Let me know if this sounds right and if there is anything else I need please let me know!
Thanks in advance guys

 

oh my lol c'mon 43 views and no response, do I sound that retarded or something?

I know all the info is on this site, which is how I got to where I am now, I just want reassurance that everything I need is in that list so when I start tearing her down I don't run into any snags due to not having all the parts needed...

 

the stock connecting rods are only rated for 300hp, so if you plan to go with big power you would probobly want to go with some aftermarket connecting rods. at the very least have the stock rods beam polished and shot peened, and use new bolts.

any bolts that are torque to yeild (torque spec would be torque to XX ft/lb then add yy degrees) must be replaced. this includes the rod bolts, all the main girdle bolts (all 30 of them), head bolts, and cam gear bolts. the valve cover gasket is glued in, unless it leaks, dont bother changing it (its a neoprean rubber anyways).

 

Thanks Sharkey, good info.... really the stock rods are only good to 300? Im right around 320 whp right now... I was under the impression they were forged and good to 400ish whp? (I should have probably stated my power goals are around 385whp 350-380lb/ft) anyone else wanna chime in on that?

Also, does anyone know a website or a place I would be able to get all/some of the replacement bolts I am going to need instead of going to a dealer and getting rapped?

 

the reason why they say you need those new bolts is because they are torque to yield bolts which means once you torque them down and then pull them out they are no good, but that is bs I have never had a bolt come loose lock tight FTW

 

Alright, gotcha makes sense but wouldn't think those would be torque to yield.... so besides what I have listed and what sharkey stated (30 griddle bolts) is there anything else I need?

 

you will need to change
-girdle bolts
-rod bolts
-crank pulley bolts
-cam sprocket bolts
-head bolts
-flywheel bolts

the reason you change them after each use is because when you torque a bolt to yeild it stretches it past the point were it would go back to its untorqued length. by using them again they can snap. the best place to get all these bolts would be crateenginedepot.com, the dealer will rape you on the price of them.

the gm buildbook says the rods are good for 300whp. however thats the build up for the time attack cobalt and it was around 385whp with the nitrous iirc, so they will take more abuse. myself id still beam polish them and have them shot peened.

 

Thank you Sharkey, I appreciate your help... I think I'll just go with new rods while I'm at I guess, any recommendations for this and I'm assuming the 2.2 sets I have seen fit in the LSJ since I have not seen any LSJ ones?