hEY Guys I finally got stage 2, WOWWW!!!! this thing isss super fast now!! Big difference.
I was wondering, is there a stage 3 for 2007 SS/SC? b/c my goal is to get somewhere around 300 - 320 WHP. To me i'm not worried about the cost or anything, i just lovvve horspower!

 

300whp is gonna take a lot of effort with the m62... go turbo and save yourself a lot of time and money

 

Not a fan of the turbo though, No, i mean i am willing to do a fully built engine the whole deal ; pistons, cams, rods, ect.... plus perhaps a bigger supercharger. Do they still offer the stage 3, and what does it come with?

thanks,
Leo

 

Stage 3(from GM) is just a new pcm, smaller pulley(like 2.9 or 3.0), and meth kit. The setup is made to be able to take a 50 shot. Now the problem with it is GM doesn't warranty it because its intended for off road use only. They know that the stock pistons won't last as long on that setup. Your best bet is to upgrade with stages kits from Turbo Tech, CA, Intense, or one of the other vendors. But doing a fully built engine is definetly on the right track to 300whp+. Good Luck with it bro!

 

Stage 3 doesnt come with a meth kit it comes with a dual pass endplate. Also takes your AC away F THAT!!!!!!!

 

the whipple swap might make more than 300whp with supporting mods

 

Excellent! Don't really need a/c i like my windows open in the summer..lol but sounds pretty extreme!

 

Whipple swap? any more info?

 

Could i just possibly swap my stage 2 pulleys for a stage 3 pulley? Also what could i do to my supercharger (internals wise) to get more power? Eventually i will be doing the whole engine.

 

you can do a 2.9 on stock stage 2 injectors any smaller without bigger injectors you will hurt ****

 

So i can use the stage 2 injectors and just add stage 3 pulleys. I just want to achieve 300-320 whp with internals of course.

 

i dont know why more of you don't get p&p head/cams... I don't know how well your stock heads flow, but im sure there is quite a bit of room for improvement. More flow = less resistance = less work for the blower = less heat = YAY! MORE POWER AND LESS PROBLEMS! Port and polish the blower, port and polish heads, with some valvetrain work, cams, etc. easy 30whp imo, and you will have quite a bit lower temps. its worth it for you small ass pulley guys, im tellin ya.

 

yes you can put the stage 3 pulley on the stage 2 setup, but you will not get all the benefits of stg. 3. Stage 3 comes with a smaller pulley, dual pass endplate, and a new ECM that is configed for a 50 shot of No2 and high octane mode and an adjustable rev limiter. Go with the stage 3 pulley but you might want to also thank about some cooling mods when you start going lower in pulleys. A cobra HE will do wonders!

 

Here you go. This the stage3
Take your Cobalt SS to the next level with our Stage 3 Off-Road kit!

The Stage 3 kit consists of the following:
• Smaller, 76mm supercharger pulley
• 2-pass intercooler end plate
• Unique PCM which includes a calibration for the smaller pulley, an adjustable rev limiter, a 100 octane mode, and a nitrous algorithm.

Our Stage 3 kit will take your supercharged Ecotec to a whole new level of performance. Stage 3 takes horsepower output to 248 on 93 octane fuel and to 260 horsepower on 100 octane fuel.
In addition to the power increase, you'll also get an adjustable rev limiter and calibration for a 50 shot of nitrous (nitrous kit not included).
For best power, we recommend also installing a high-flow exhaust.

The PCM is equipped with a user adjustable rev limit from 6750 to 8000 rpm. The rev limit is adjusted by pressing on the throttle pedal with the ignition on and engine off. At about 50% throttle the tachometer will show the current rev limit. Pressing the throttle further will adjust the rev limit in 250 rpm increments. This PCM is also equipped with a control scheme for the equivalent of a 50-horse shot of Nitrous. The PCM will automatically provide the proper spark and fuel for A Nitrous up to 500 rpm below the current selected rev limit when the trigger is activated.

 

I want stage 2

 

NICCEEE!!! I just wanna kill this guy in town who has this BMW M3 and says cobalts are a piece of junk! i can't wait to see the look on his face when i reaaam him by 9 corn fields!

 

don't go to 8000 rpms when you shift though. redline is still very close to 7000 rpms.

if you want over 300whp, you're going to need a built motor... or at least new pistons.

 

not necessarily. Turbo at the same stress on your motor as the stock m62 with say a 2.7" is gonna make close to if not over 300fwhp just from the huge drop in parasitic loss. Plus it is more thermally efficient.

 

Absolutely right.

IMO this modification (Head P&P and cams with exhaust and intake) on top of a Stage II kit would make more power than a setup with a small ass pulley, especially if you had the cooling mods to go with it. Plus, you're right, it would be much more safely made horsepower. You would definately switch your torque curve up higher and loose psi on the boost gauge but the car would be much faster. This style torque curve is better for FWD anyways, unless you go all out on the suspension and traction mods in which case it could deal with higher levels of torque.

True also. Going turbo alone would allow for this power safely without an engine rebuild, although it would still be the right thing to do. GM also did a build where they used high compression forged aluminum pistons and all of the stage kit bolt ons; they then added a cam and a custom shorty header to the setup and dynoed slightly over 300WHP.

 

exactly...and get a cam that favors high rpm's over low end torque and you guys could even see better traction with some INSANE top end pull. You would probably be able to see the power the 2.5" guys are putting down with a 2.8" or even bigger. An engine is basically just an air pump guys. Think of those little pumps you use to fill up a basketball. You open up the hole bigger, and it is a SHITLOAD easier to pump. When that happens your setup because far more efficient and efficicency is god. Low temps are your friend, especially with the damned eaton, you guys need to bring down those temps as much as possible. someone port the stock heads, get a nice cam in there, an exhaust that flows pretty well, port/polish the blower, put on a 2.8" pulley or something similar, do the proper cooling mods, and make high 200's real safely. Im telling you it can be done.

 

I disagree and agree. I'll make my point after I congrat the thread creator. Congrats on stage II, and congrats because you can keep your warnity. The LSJ can make 300wph with a good tune and the right mods. I personally feel with a forged built motor and anywhere from a 2.7-2.9 pulley is the way to go. Build the motor for toughness and get a nice shot of N02. Or a good blower swap later on when the warnity is gone.

 

Thanks for your help folks appreciate it!

I need to know what type of piston swap to do, what type of cams to get, and if i should get replacement heads or mod stock head. Also i agree with you all on getting the engine to breathe better, what should i do to get the engine ALOT of cold air, cause with stage II it runs HOT!! and heat robs HP so I was wondering about the best way to let the engine get as much cold air as possible. Also, folks keep in mind I will be going all out on this engine, so give me your suggestions Pistons, rods, cams, heads, pulleys,

where to buy, best brand, safest way to go

thanks,

Much appreciated,

Leo

 

If you want to stick with the M62 then you must at least get it ported (As far as the compressor itself), that will help alot. Also, since you're going all out, when you are done prepping the engine and deciding how much boost you will run compared to your revlimit and cam selection etc. etc., for cooling you should look into methanol as it works very well for cooling the charge. Here is what GM used for their pistons, cams and valve springs. It shows what the cam specs are as well. The pistons were 10:1 comp ratio....this may not be the way you should go as this would require a completely different thought process. Here's the link:

Go to the 300+HP Ecotec sections 1-4. It will show you how they did it: It is a good starting point especially the cam specs although yours will differ slightly depending on setup, supercharged engines usually like a fairly predictable grind:
http://www.gmperformancedivision.com..._articles.aspx

 

i'm not saying you can't make that hp, i'm saying your pistons will probably blow up after a short while.

 

why? You do realize the people running say, 2.8"s which seem to be pretty damn safe are probably getting more than a 40hp parasitic loss to the m62. That's a very low estimate too, expect it to be higher in reality. Even if it is only 40hp, you are still in the high 200's easily with the same stress as the guys with the 2.8"s and due to much lower temps being possible, and other factors, you could probably break the 300 mark on a turbo setup with the same stress as the guys making 240-250whp on the m62. Your pistons would be fine at that point.