Head removal
Quick question,
I'm about to go remove the head on my friend's '05 SS, and I was wondering how easy it is to remove. Is it accessible without removing the rad? Can I get away with just draining the engine oil and coolant? Do I need to drain the intercooler aswell? Any help would be appreciated.. Thanks! |
any particular reason you decided to remove the head?
|
I would recommend draining oil and engine coolant. Aftercooler system can stay. You don't really need to pull out exhaust or intake manifolds. Just remove nuts/studs and they can sit in the engine bay. The head is very easy to remove on these. Nothing really needs to come out of engine bay.
|
Is it easy enough to pull the head with the exh mani still attached? I'm doing a header at the same time, id rather unbolt it out of the car if I can. I'm not sure about re-installing it with the header attached, I would like to, but its a big ass header.
|
Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
(Post 2728792)
Is it easy enough to pull the head with the exh mani still attached? I'm doing a header at the same time, id rather unbolt it out of the car if I can. I'm not sure about re-installing it with the header attached, I would like to, but its a big ass header.
|
Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
(Post 2728792)
Is it easy enough to pull the head with the exh mani still attached? I'm doing a header at the same time, id rather unbolt it out of the car if I can. I'm not sure about re-installing it with the header attached, I would like to, but its a big ass header.
|
Timing chain is going to be a lot of fun....get a book/service manual! Chiltons, Haynes, or factory service manual.
|
Originally Posted by Red07SSNA
(Post 2728813)
Timing chain is going to be a lot of fun....get a book/service manual! Chiltons, Haynes, or factory service manual.
Just put something in the spark plug holes and make all 4 pistons flat across. You can just un-do the chain around the cam gears and don't need to worry about the cams spinning and valve/piston contact. The valve's won't reach that far down with all 4 pistons flat. For head re-install, the front cover will obviously need to be removed for re-timing, but that is very easy as well. Just get the GM 300HP build book, does a lot better than service manuals. |
Well, I got as far as draining the coolant and oil, and removing the valve cover before I decided it was time for dinner. Will I need to get an inverse torx socket set for this?
The reason I'm taking off the head is from my overheating/compression thread. I'm just trying to determine if the headgasket is blown (99% sure it is), and check to make sure the head isn't cracked. |
Originally Posted by ChainLink
(Post 2728906)
Well, I got as far as draining the coolant and oil, and removing the valve cover before I decided it was time for dinner. Will I need to get an inverse torx socket set for this?
The reason I'm taking off the head is from my overheating/compression thread. I'm just trying to determine if the headgasket is blown (99% sure it is), and check to make sure the head isn't cracked. Make sure to have the head checked by a machine shop. Blown headgasket = warped head. Probably needs decked. Stock headbolts are stretch as well and will need replaced, recommend ARP or Golden Eagle stud kits. |
Awsome. You guys have been a great help.
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:48 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands