2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

Heat exhanger setup

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-28-2017, 01:33 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
jdbaugh1's Avatar
 
Join Date: 02-03-16
Location: Kansas
Posts: 6,433
Received 357 Likes on 318 Posts
Heat exhanger setup

Right now the only heat exchanger I am running is the ZZP S3 lower bumper mount. To me the stock LSJ heat exhanger looks like it would yield lower coolant exit temps because it is thin with way more frontal area. I'm thinking this area should be more effective at transferring heat because most of the surface is exposed to fresh ambient air. Even though the ZZP exchanger is much thicker I am thinking the air will heat up as it moves through which will significantly drop the efficiency as you get closer to the rear of the heat exchanger. On top of that, air won't move through it as freely.

I have recently purchase a stock LSJ h/e from advice and am wondering the best way to plumb it in and sort of wondered how much y'all think it will help. I'm thinking it should run through the LSJ h/e first and then the ZZP bumper mount. Any opinions/advice?
Old 04-28-2017, 04:55 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
advise's Avatar
 
Join Date: 04-25-07
Location: Bohemia, New York, Long Island
Posts: 2,390
Received 18 Likes on 16 Posts
Originally Posted by jdbaugh1
Right now the only heat exchanger I am running is the ZZP S3 lower bumper mount. To me the stock LSJ heat exhanger looks like it would yield lower coolant exit temps because it is thin with way more frontal area. I'm thinking this area should be more effective at transferring heat because most of the surface is exposed to fresh ambient air. Even though the ZZP exchanger is much thicker I am thinking the air will heat up as it moves through which will significantly drop the efficiency as you get closer to the rear of the heat exchanger. On top of that, air won't move through it as freely.

I have recently purchase a stock LSJ h/e from advice and am wondering the best way to plumb it in and sort of wondered how much y'all think it will help. I'm thinking it should run through the LSJ h/e first and then the ZZP bumper mount. Any opinions/advice?
pump out to stock h.e in
h.e out to endplate in
endplate out to t neck to pump in
Old 04-29-2017, 01:18 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
jdbaugh1's Avatar
 
Join Date: 02-03-16
Location: Kansas
Posts: 6,433
Received 357 Likes on 318 Posts
Originally Posted by advise
pump out to stock h.e in
h.e out to endplate in
endplate out to t neck to pump in

So should I run the freshly heated fluid through the stock h/e first and then the ZZP S3? Or through the ZZP h/e and then the stock?
Old 04-29-2017, 06:45 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
 
ItalianJoe1's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-01-05
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 12,485
Likes: 0
Received 60 Likes on 60 Posts
I always run the outlet of the stock HE to the inlet of the aftermarket H/E, as the ZZP one is in the front and getting the coolest air, it makes sense for it to be the last place the coolant goes. All about maximizing the temperature drop.
The following users liked this post:
jdbaugh1 (04-30-2017)
Old 05-01-2017, 11:54 AM
  #5  
Banned
iTrader: (4)
 
user 72239's Avatar
 
Join Date: 01-21-11
Posts: 12,979
Received 162 Likes on 128 Posts
I wonder if mounting the stock HE in front of the radiator instead of being sandwhiched in between would net better cooling.

FWIW. this weekend I logged my IAT/IAT2's using torque

64* Ambient air temp
cruising on highway IAT2 was 110-115
2nd-3rd gear pull to redline IAT was 105
Recovery was surprisingly fast

This is all with OEM stuff. only mod I have is option-b
The following users liked this post:
jdbaugh1 (05-01-2017)
Old 05-01-2017, 01:36 PM
  #6  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
jdbaugh1's Avatar
 
Join Date: 02-03-16
Location: Kansas
Posts: 6,433
Received 357 Likes on 318 Posts
Originally Posted by leemanfor
I wonder if mounting the stock HE in front of the radiator instead of being sandwhiched in between would net better cooling.

FWIW. this weekend I logged my IAT/IAT2's using torque

64* Ambient air temp
cruising on highway IAT2 was 110-115
2nd-3rd gear pull to redline IAT was 105
Recovery was surprisingly fast

This is all with OEM stuff. only mod I have is option-b
I have single ZZP S3 h/e, phenolic spacer, dual-pass, option b. and methonal/water injection at TB. Once my car is fully warmed up my IAT2 temps are generally 25-30 degrees hotter than ambient air temp as the thermometer reads on the dash for outside temperature (not ambient temp as read through OBDII port as that can be much hotter than actual ambient temp at times). That doesn't seem like much but when it gets 90 to 100 degrees here during the summer quite often my cruising temp will be around 120-130F. I would like the steady state temperature to be closer to ambient if possible even if it is only 5-10 degrees. I have never really seen my IAT2 temp go above 130 during pulls but I am not always looking at my IAT gauge and have not ran it in the summer much yet with the new gauge so I haven't really tested it in real hot conditions. When I get around to installing the stock LSJ h/e I will definitely be installing it in front of the AC condenser and the radiator. It doesn't really make sense to me that they originally put it behind the AC condenser as the condenser air exit temps can be pretty damn warm.
Old 05-01-2017, 05:30 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Sharkey's Avatar
 
Join Date: 10-27-07
Location: Abbotsford BC, Canada
Posts: 5,683
Received 263 Likes on 222 Posts
thing you have to remember is the coolant temp in the intercooler system arent much above ambient, not unless your road racing. moving your stock heat exchanger in front of everything wont really do a whole lot. we are at the mercy of the efficiency of the laminova cores and intake manifold. dual pass end plate helps, people have seen better improvement with a single pass modded manifold. past those mods (along with the 2nd heat exchanger) your not going to see a huge decrease in iat2 temps when the coolant is close to ambient already, unless you do an ice box or a killer chiller (they dont work well on these cars).
The following users liked this post:
jdbaugh1 (05-01-2017)
Old 05-01-2017, 07:06 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
jdbaugh1's Avatar
 
Join Date: 02-03-16
Location: Kansas
Posts: 6,433
Received 357 Likes on 318 Posts
Originally Posted by Sharkey
thing you have to remember is the coolant temp in the intercooler system arent much above ambient, not unless your road racing. moving your stock heat exchanger in front of everything wont really do a whole lot. we are at the mercy of the efficiency of the laminova cores and intake manifold. dual pass end plate helps, people have seen better improvement with a single pass modded manifold. past those mods (along with the 2nd heat exchanger) your not going to see a huge decrease in iat2 temps when the coolant is close to ambient already, unless you do an ice box or a killer chiller (they dont work well on these cars).
I think it would make a significant difference ONLY when the AC is on. Depending on what the exit temp of the AC condenser is you could be blowing much hotter air through the IC than ambient. I don't think the airflow volume change will be significant.
Old 05-01-2017, 07:50 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
 
ItalianJoe1's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-01-05
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 12,485
Likes: 0
Received 60 Likes on 60 Posts
Originally Posted by leemanfor
I wonder if mounting the stock HE in front of the radiator instead of being sandwhiched in between would net better cooling.

FWIW. this weekend I logged my IAT/IAT2's using torque

64* Ambient air temp
cruising on highway IAT2 was 110-115
2nd-3rd gear pull to redline IAT was 105
Recovery was surprisingly fast

This is all with OEM stuff. only mod I have is option-b
It does, a member on here did it, it made a nice difference. I'd have to dig for the thread though, it was several years back.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...egrees-299848/

Found it.
Old 05-05-2017, 01:40 PM
  #10  
New Member
 
07cobaltsssce85's Avatar
 
Join Date: 05-02-17
Location: North St Paul, MN
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Should switch you cores around, so you just have the engine coolant for the engine coolant and the heat exchanger coolant for heat exchanger, works great.
Old 05-05-2017, 02:53 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
jdbaugh1's Avatar
 
Join Date: 02-03-16
Location: Kansas
Posts: 6,433
Received 357 Likes on 318 Posts
Originally Posted by 07cobaltsssce85
Should switch you cores around, so you just have the engine coolant for the engine coolant and the heat exchanger coolant for heat exchanger, works great.
The water to air intercooler system is always separate from he engine coolant system. Near 200 degree water isn't good for cooling an intake charge.
Old 05-05-2017, 05:24 PM
  #12  
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
ECaulk's Avatar
 
Join Date: 07-19-10
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 26,574
Received 836 Likes on 733 Posts
Originally Posted by jdbaugh1
The water to air intercooler system is always separate from he engine coolant system. Near 200 degree water isn't good for cooling an intake charge.
I think reading comprehension is lost on him.




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:38 AM.