Heat gun + tstat = ???
06-21-2012, 11:18 PM
#1
Heat gun + tstat = ???
So, just installed my ZZP engine and have connected all the coolant hoses and attempted to fill the engine with freah fluid with little success.
My question is : do you thin i can externally heat the tstat housing with a heat gun to 185 deg to get coolant to enter the block prior to first fire.
In addition, does anyone know if the short term of running the motor with coolant in the head but not the block will cause issues on a ZZP forged short block OR if running the water pump dry will cause issues?
A fellow cobalt guy told me i should drill a small hole in the tstat, however that is not an easy task given the current state of install... Wish i had done that prior to hoisting the engine in to the bay...
Im hoping i can prime the coolant using a heat gun on the outside of the housing? Any thoughts?
My question is : do you thin i can externally heat the tstat housing with a heat gun to 185 deg to get coolant to enter the block prior to first fire.
In addition, does anyone know if the short term of running the motor with coolant in the head but not the block will cause issues on a ZZP forged short block OR if running the water pump dry will cause issues?
A fellow cobalt guy told me i should drill a small hole in the tstat, however that is not an easy task given the current state of install... Wish i had done that prior to hoisting the engine in to the bay...
Im hoping i can prime the coolant using a heat gun on the outside of the housing? Any thoughts?
06-22-2012, 12:02 AM
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AllData shows to Vacuum fill it. I still think you should be able to remove a heater core hose and bleed the air out as much as possible. A minimum of a gallon should go in then it should be able to be run and topped up from there.
06-22-2012, 12:03 AM
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HowStuffWorks "How does the thermostat in a car's cooling system work?"
according to that, it is wax inside.
although i do think that newer ones do use springs.
according to that, it is wax inside.
although i do think that newer ones do use springs.
06-22-2012, 12:09 AM
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No the wax is encased in a cylinder and sealed shut. Look at a picture and it'll make sense on how it works, I'm sure your right about the spring changing pressure and moving the valve too. There is always more than one way to do something.
06-22-2012, 12:13 AM
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"Wax pellet thermostat:
A thermostat in which the expansion of melting paraffin wax (in a rigid cylinder) deforms a molded rubber membrane and displaces a piston/pin from the cylinder; this has the advantage of being insensitive to sudden temperature fluctuations or to the pressure in the system"
A thermostat in which the expansion of melting paraffin wax (in a rigid cylinder) deforms a molded rubber membrane and displaces a piston/pin from the cylinder; this has the advantage of being insensitive to sudden temperature fluctuations or to the pressure in the system"
06-22-2012, 12:19 AM
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Touche. Well I still say remove the upper heater hose to let air escape. I worked on a VW that Alldata specified to partially remove the upper hose to reveal a small bleeder hole in the hose that would allow the air to bleed out.. When I checked the hose it even had markings on it and said hole.
06-22-2012, 12:30 AM
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Yes but you still get heat inside the cabin without the Thermostat being opened cause at least 1 line is connected between the Thermostat and pump. So when you undo that line the air will bleed out and allow the lower rad hose to fill the block with water until it comes out from said undone hose... Please tell me that makes sense.