Ok, long story short, installed the ZZP Stage 3 with the ZZP S3 Heat Exchanger about a month ago... got a base tune from Vince (Trifecta), started data logging the car, and my IAT2 temps came back in the 180 range
I found my IC pump was bad, so I replaced. Once done, I data logged again, still my temps are in the 180 range.. WTH? I don't know what to check next... any idea's?

 

bleed the air out of the top of the stock heat exchanger...its just one bolt thats sticking half way out of the top of it right behind ur grill...have the pump on to bleed it

 

air bubble or restriction such as a kink.

 

will do, any way to turn the pump on while the car is off? also is there a fuse for the IC pump? I looked but couldn't find one.

 

wait a tick... stock H/E? Guy who helped me install my stage 3 removed the stock one... do I need to be running both?

F*ck.... just looked at zzp website... I should be running both... SOB, could that be the issue?

 

You don't need to. Most people do run both though, I've heard of people running just the front mount and getting good results as the stock one picks up heat from being sandwiched with the radiator and A/C condenser.

Joel

 

oh, phew... that's good to hear... I was worried for a second... I remember telling him I thought I should be running both.

Anywho, would it be cooler to run both in the long run?

I also have a meth kit I'm gonna install, so running both goning to be over kill?

 

you dont have to run both, but every sc balt iv been around has run both of them...
all you should need to do then is bleed the air from the filler neck instead, since there is no more stock h/e to assist with that..

just turn the key to acc. and the pump should come on, take a funnel (i used to use a watter bottle that i cut the bottom off of and turned upside down) and add more water/coolant to the filler neck and turn pump on....it will slowly suck the newly added water/coolant down into the system riding it of unwanted air bubbles

do this untill you think you got al the air bubbles out

 

If you dont have the stock one, bleeding will be a bitch lol...Ive ran the zzp he alone without the stock when mine cracked and man lemme tell you my iat2s were higher than normal and they climb up sooo crazy when i step on it, no joke..id run both the stock and the secondary,

I personally just flushed the dexcool today and went staight distilled water which helps cool better and keep them iat2s down...

oh btw op, make sure ur pump's pigtail is wired correctly, some pumps came wired the wrong way from factory " mine was " so make sure the postive end is really getting positive power and the ground is ground...get a pole tester and check it out, the pump has the "+" and "-" signs on it...so double check that...and lastly bleed it, put the car in on position then wait 10 seconds for it to power on automatically unless its commanded on by the tune as soon the key is in " on " postition....

good luck...

 

Honestly, the more cooling the better with the (h)eaton superchargers. The lower your IAT2's are the more power you'll get. I personally run both heat exchangers, if it does nothing else there is at least more fluid in your system. Someone with more experience on the specific subject of front mount or both will chime in.

I'll do a little digging though because now I'm curious.

Joel

 

Hay thanks for the help guys! I do still have the stock H/E, and I'm already planning on having a good wrencher day as soon as my slotted and dimpled rotors come in. Thats when the Meth kit will be installed as well...

 

iv installed about 5 front mount h/e and everytime the stock h/e has been left on the car and functional
iat2's on those cars after a pull reach maybe 130 at the highest
and thats not on a cold pull either, with city driving..

 

the meth will help you tons! unless you go straight 100% meth that is....use it for cooling a tad more and you will make more power

 

Yea Vince said I should be in the 130 range before he will dial in my tune more... hints the reason I've stated this thread. That and i'm gonna be data logging again once the meth is installed. So i'm trying to get everything fixed.

 

when i work with him on sc balts he usually says no higher than 120 hahaha
just get the air out of the system and hook that meth up and your worries will end!
and ur car will run like a champ and have lots of timing lol

 

Real quick Sunburst... I'm going to check my IC pump as well, but I wanted to know were you orderd yours threw? I got mine from ZZP and it's a Bosch.

 

I ordered mine through the dealer since they had it readily available when it was on backorder with some vendors on here, the one i had on was oem and so was the new one, i just couldnt stand high iat2s i believe they're all bosch pumps but there's different models if i remember correctly .... for both of the pumps the positive end was on the bottom but on the pigtail it was the top, and the pigtails go in one way, so i had to test the poles and manually jump the pump to figure out why the pump wasnt working right after swapping the cables out and sorting that out my iat2s were perfect !

lemme know if there's anything i can help you with


here's a pic of the work i was doing

 

Umm.why would you not run both coolers? More fluid=more to circulate=more time to cool off...

If everything is running right and dual pass is on it. Your iat2s should be no more then 15-25 degrees hotter then the iat1 moving. If the car is not moving the iat2 can be as high as 140-160.

And jesus get an option b.....