So I got the valve cover off, now Im looking at the valve springs and all that crap i need to know where to start in order to get them off..

I know its a newb question but everyone has to pop their cherry sometime

 

Well, that lawsuit your fighting is worthless now, since you voided your warranty already

 

I cant help it I need my car back, its my DD

Im getting parts overnighted once i figure out what i need

 

figured it out but thanks i need sleep lol

 

Picks of the carnage!!!

 

seriously man, we need pics....

 

yeah ditto.

-Rich

 

You've never seen what it looks like underneath the valve cover?

Its jut the cams, cam gears, spark plugs and valves

Nothing really exciting

 

Johnboy12358 == n00b & never seen the internals of any engine...

 

ive taken some pics but its on my phone ill upload them before i goto bed, its a 2mp so they arent the best but i have under the valve cover, and will have under the heads soon, I just need to figure out the timing, its a bitch.

does any1 know if the cams have to be Top dead center or is it the crankshaft pulley the build book doesnt specify and im wanting to double and tripple check

 

If you do it by the Build book it says to mark the cams and the front bearing mount (Fig 80-82 page 50) with the engine at top dead center -- did you do that? When you put the head back on just make sure the engine is top dead center and the camshaft marks line up again.

Get a Haynes manual for an earlier 2.2-2.0 equipped car even if it's for the Saturn (try book PN 87020 '00-'04 L-series or a Cavalier PN 38005). They probably won't have every detail of your Cobalt's engine but it would give the information about setting up the cams -- be better than going blind on this -- the build book doesn't give any good pictures -- unless you can get your hands on a factory service manual.

 

What indicates the engine is at top dead center i take it its when the crackshaft pulley is

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the one being straight up and the two bottom at an angle?

sorry for newb questions i have been up for 3 days

just dont want to **** up something i owe 18000 on

 

Back when I was teaching myself how to do all this stuff , the dealer service manuals were invalueble . Theres a step by step in sequence for everything with all torque specs , how to set timing sprockets ect ect ....everything u need to know . At the local libraries up here u can check out the dealer service manuals , u should beable to where u are too . There not the hanes books or the cheapies u get at the auto parts stores , but the actual dealer service books .

Good luck with everything .....2K5SS/SC? jus did this so alot of it should fresh in his mind .

 

It wouldnt be so bad if i had some sleep i keep loosing tools that are right in front of me, but i have to get this done tonight so i can order parts tommorrow

im about to say **** it and order, pistons, clutch, flywheel, CAI, Strut Bar, Valve Springs, Valves, and Cams while i have this bitch apart, Im also gonna get an interceptor Wideband and a 3 pod. Time to whip out the GM Family First Card....

 

My 06 2.2 has the exact same timing marks as the one pictured in Fig 80 on Page 50 and fig 109 on page 57 of the engine build book. Does yours look the same?

 

I dont have any timing marks

 

and i just cut my head open, hit it on the toolbox while trying to get that dam timing chain bolt in figure 86 out, at least i didnt drop it in the engine

 

Get the sportcompact build book. IT's a free download from gmtunersource.com or get the service manual from the dealer.

 

im using it i have a hard copy

 

Or hit up the junk yard for a wrecked LSJ car...

 

good luck with that around here

 

I found this here on the site, maybe will help??? try some more searches.....

1. Remove the induction box. There are two hose clamps, one at the flex pipe to air box, and one at the induction box to throttle body. There is also the crankcase breather line, held with a tension clamp.

2. Unplug the ignition module wiring harness. There is a small locking tab on the plug that you need to slide back first, then the plug itself can be removed.

3. Unbolt the ignition module. Lift the module from the engine. It will be snug due to the module being plugged into the spark plugs. Don't worry, just pull it up. Some of the plug wires (they look like short rubber tubes) might come off with the module, some might stay on the plug. Remove the ones from the plugs, put them back on the module, then set it aside.

4. On the left side of the engine, there is a wire bundle held in place by a plastic fastner pressed into the valve cover. Grip it with some pliers and pull it out.

5. On the right side of the engine, remove the bonding strap.

6. All that should remain are the bolts holding the valve cover on. Inspect to be sure.

7. When you remove (and reinstall) the cover bolts, you will want to do it in two separate passes. If you remove a bolt completely, you will unseat the rubber washer gasket from the cover. If you do, it's not a problem, you can just push it back into place. And since you are wanting to polish your cover, you'll have to remove them anyway. But if you want all the bolts to stay with the cover, do this: Unscrew each bolt until you notice the gasket start to pull away from the cover, then stop. Move on to the next bolt. Go all the way around until you are back at the first bolt again (don't forget the bolts in the center that where under the ignition module). Then go back around and completely unscrewing the bolts this time. It will make sense when you do it.

8. Lift the cover off. That's all. You now have access to your cam shafts by the way if you ever want to change those out. You shouldn't have to cover anything, just close the hood. The cover will have rubber gaskets glued to it around the perimeter and the spark plug holes. Leave them on, they can be saved. You should be able to polish the cover and clean it without damaging that gasket at all. However, if you do, it's a fairly cheap part, but a pain in the ass to clean off all the old glue that was holding in the first one. Also, if you still have your oil cap riser, that simply screws out with a quarter turn.

9. Installation is the reverse of removal. I don't have the torque spec for the cover bolts on me right now. If I find it I'll edit the post later. However, it's not much at all. Just snug them a little bit. The cover is not a high pressure critical sea

 

thanks man, but i already have it off ive just been working on getting the timing right for the past hour or two hell ive lost track of time, im finally ready to pull the head ill have a pic of it to!

 

If i were in your position thats probably what I would do. Youve got it apart anyways, so go to town...

 

so yea, i definatly had a stripped head stud and i didnt strip it, 1mm smaller and a hammer fixed that