Just wanted your guys opinion on breaking in the engine on the ss/sc. Did you guys take it easy for a while, or not. Is it alright to punch it once and awhile while during the break in period?

 

the engine is broken in from the factory... if you have an auto, don't do anything... if you have a manual, you have to break in the clutch for about 500 miles... no hard launches or shifts...

 

word <-- just take it easy on the clutch like as in really easy.

 

Like these guys said the motor comes with Mobil 1 already in it. Just take it easy on the clutch.

 

lol i feel bad cause ive already red lined it like 4 times and felt that whole engine sink feeling haha (where it feels like the powers been cut) and i only have 3000 kms on it... i blame a very short first gear!

 

a bit short i suppose, but most of the problem i believe happens because of the massive hp/tq #'s! You get there so quick.

 

Read your manual, it details the procedure right there.

 

well I didn't follow any of the break in procedure my clutch has slipped 3 times and that's with 11000 miles so who knows mabey if I had broken it in right my clutch wouldn't be slipping but who knows.

 

I plan to upgrade my clutch as soon as I get the money... the stock one can't even handle stock power... I'd hate to see it after stage 2...

 

I have intnese stage3 and exhaust and it held pretty well at the track last night it only slipped when I dumped it at 3k.

 

Where have you heard that? Just asking cause breaking in a motor is a rather costly thing to do just for the sake of breaking it in.

I wouldn't know if it is or isn't broken in myself. But Synthetic makes break in either impossible or extremely long winded because it lubricates too well for break in to occur.

I'm not sure but if it isn't I'd do the normal break in procedure of getting the motor hot then rolling in and out of it in second and letting it slow down under the engins power to set the seals and bearings occasionally till the first oil change. By then your motor's completely broken in.

 

Changing/Upgrading the clutch has caused a lot of heart ache for several members, I would upgrade it unless you are having issues.

 

stage 2 + injen intake soon to be installed (once it gets here)gmpp performance exhaust and then I will buy the pb 2.8 shortly after. stock clutch 16k+ miles and the clutch handles all the power like a champ and I have no doubt in my mind it will handle the 2.8 when intalled with all it's torqy glory. just drive the car right and you wont have any issues at all.

 

thats true, thats probably the biggest problem lol

 

How has this caused heartache....i put a spec stg 2 and findanza fw and I have nothing but smiles

 

This is a very touchy subject...Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber. If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ... How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of PSI of combustion pressure? It can't. So how do you go about sealing the rings against a huge amounts of combustion pressure? Well, from the actual gas pressure itself. It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation then the entire ring will wear into the cylinder surface thus sealing the combustion pressure as well as possible....my opinion of course.

Drive it like you stole it.