how much $
08-09-2007, 10:35 PM
#1
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how much $
hey i wanted to know how much money it take to get to 300-350whp without nitrous or going turbo and it doesnt have to be gm either
08-09-2007, 11:06 PM
#4
About $10,000 if you do most of the work yourself. Pistons, ported head with cams and fully upgraded valvetrain, balanced bottom end, balance shaft delete,, ported blower, intake, full exhaust, excellent tuning and raised max rpm to 7500-8000, bigger injectors, smaller pulley, poly/solid mounts, Exedy clutch, axles. Thats all I can think of at the time.
And you will be installing a lot of that yourself, or the price will start to climb sharply.
And you will be installing a lot of that yourself, or the price will start to climb sharply.
08-09-2007, 11:13 PM
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Yessir, it is. The reason for that is that the weak link is the M62. In order to get near 300 whp guys are using pulleys that are too small and so they are overspinning the blower which means that it is out of its efficiency range. If you don't want to go with nitrous or a turbo, look into the twinscrew swap or going with a centrifugal supercharger.
08-09-2007, 11:15 PM
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joe is wrong. it would take less than 5k.
first you get the lysholm twinscrew supercharger swap.. (roughly $3,000) - by rebelautoworxs
second you get a used 03/04 cobra heat exchanger.. (less than $250)
third you get a full exhaust (less than $1,000)
last you get a kick ass dyno tune ($400)
you will now have about 325whp.(running 12s on street tires) without ever opening the motor
theres a decent chance you will need axles and a clutch too
but thats how you do it, without nitrous, or a turbo.
first you get the lysholm twinscrew supercharger swap.. (roughly $3,000) - by rebelautoworxs
second you get a used 03/04 cobra heat exchanger.. (less than $250)
third you get a full exhaust (less than $1,000)
last you get a kick ass dyno tune ($400)
you will now have about 325whp.(running 12s on street tires) without ever opening the motor
theres a decent chance you will need axles and a clutch too
but thats how you do it, without nitrous, or a turbo.
Last edited by chevysalesman614; 08-09-2007 at 11:30 PM.
08-09-2007, 11:21 PM
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One word (well two put together)
TwinScrew
This will get you up there, and be more efficient at the same time. Its new, so results are sparse yet, but there are a few people putting them on their cars. I think the twinscrew swap (~$3000) and other bolt ons will net you upwords of 300, of course, you will need tuning as well.
After that, all the other stuff mentioned here would be nice to throw on top.
TwinScrew
This will get you up there, and be more efficient at the same time. Its new, so results are sparse yet, but there are a few people putting them on their cars. I think the twinscrew swap (~$3000) and other bolt ons will net you upwords of 300, of course, you will need tuning as well.
After that, all the other stuff mentioned here would be nice to throw on top.
. Well, do what I said and the TS, and you'll be a lot closer to if not over 400. 
08-10-2007, 02:47 PM
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id like to get about 400whp no matter what it takes whether its nitrous or not. but what about our transmissions. havent people been breaking them at the strip when using slicks and how much can our tranny's handle?? not sure if anybody mentioned it but dont forget about water/meth injection. helps keep your engine cooler, more reliable and also more horsepower.
08-10-2007, 08:30 PM
#12
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How do you know the twin screw will land near 350HP?? I'm GEUSSING don't quote me!! you will see near or around 300. Not healthy into the 3's or near 350.
Just suck it up and buy a turbo.
Just suck it up and buy a turbo.
08-10-2007, 09:38 PM
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build the motor
thats roughly $3700...you'll have to add a little more for misc items.
- 10:1 forged pistons ($800)
- neutral balance shafts ($800)
- polished and ported head ($1700) includes all Ti parts and custom cams
- ARP studs ($200)
- cometic head gasket ($200)
thats roughly $3700...you'll have to add a little more for misc items.
08-10-2007, 09:56 PM
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I mean the ts is a good idea but we dont even know whats its going to do to begin with, and plus with the pulley it comes with it is already close to overspining or i think it may be, and with the clearance it would suck to lock that bad boy up.
08-10-2007, 11:53 PM
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Well...first you have to buy a car.
Second you have to decide how much work
you are capable of or willing to do your self.
Then shoe horn the biggest motor you can find into
the smallest lightest car you can find.
In your original question you gave no criteria to
work with other than it didn't have to be GM.
350 WHP is pretty simple these days you just
have to decide what you want to live with.
Second you have to decide how much work
you are capable of or willing to do your self.
Then shoe horn the biggest motor you can find into
the smallest lightest car you can find.
In your original question you gave no criteria to
work with other than it didn't have to be GM.
350 WHP is pretty simple these days you just
have to decide what you want to live with.
08-11-2007, 08:46 AM
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i have to disagree. im not a honda fan but for drag they are good cars. you can easily but a 92-95 hatch, the lightest hatch of the years(eg model). swap and h22 in there and be in the low 13's with typical bolts ons. build the motor up a little and you got you a 12 second car for around 4 grand.
08-11-2007, 11:16 AM
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08-11-2007, 11:26 AM
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Why does fwd drag cars suck, in my eyes they dont. For example look at the worlds fastest fwd car is a cobalt. So i dont see why fwd car suck for drag racing it must just be the driver behind the wheel is the only reason why it would suck.
08-11-2007, 11:56 AM
#23
Its not that it sucks, its just not the ideal setup. Weight transfer is all wrong, traction issues get worse the harder you launch, because weight is going away from the drive wheels instead of onto them. Any car CAN be drag raced, some cars are just more suited to it, AKA easier to drive well and better able to utilize the power the engine produces.
08-11-2007, 12:03 PM
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you're really pissing alot of people off with all of your fruitcake comments. especially when they are usually inaccurate. (though i do agree with your ported head arguement from other threads)
if the car is setup properly, weight transfer will be minimal. plus you can still drive it in the snow
Last edited by chevysalesman614; 08-11-2007 at 12:03 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
