I need brakes
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I need brakes
Iight its about that time. I need brakes but since i do i was planning on getting rotors and pads and doing them all at the same time. So Where can i find some cheap cross drilled and slotted rotors? Also which are better pads ceramic or oem?
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non ceramics will wear out faster and cause more brake dust to show up on the wheels. they also dont do well with heat the hotter they get the more wear they will show... they are also called organic pads... these are the pads people usually put on there car right before they sell it..... ceramic pads have a higher heat tolerance.. when they get hot they still wear but not as fast. also they reduce brake dust alot compared to organic pads. only problem i hear people complain is there queel loud in the morning.. this is because there cold once they warm up they quite down.... go with ceramics or semi ceramics at the least u wont be disappointed.
#12
I'm not sure how the rotors are on the car, but I would like to give my 2 cents on my system. I switched from stock rotors/pads at 60k roughly to power slot rotors and hawk hps pads and to be honest I really am not that impressed. I feel like I really have to lay into the brakes MORE to get the car to slow down and or stop. They work and do there job, but it doesn't feel as good as the stock system in all honesty. I had a shop install the brakes so I really don't think it was the install, maybe a manufacturer defect I dunno. Either way if and or when these pads go I am going to try the ebc green stuff pads.
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R1 brakes are def FTMFW, cheap and excellent braking. powerslots are overprices IMO, i got R1 slotted premium rotors and hawk hps pads. its a billion tmes better than stock
heres my thread with pics
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/r1-concepts-169/new-brakes-pics-179092/
they are held on by little nuts on the studs, they are just used during assembly to keep them on. us a flat head screw driver to undo them then therotors slide off, thats what i did
heres my thread with pics
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/r1-concepts-169/new-brakes-pics-179092/
they are held on by little nuts on the studs, they are just used during assembly to keep them on. us a flat head screw driver to undo them then therotors slide off, thats what i did
Last edited by camaromanss1992; 08-07-2009 at 10:38 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#16
I got my slotted rotors, hps hawk pads, braided stainless steal brake lines and brake fluid from tcmotorsports...really good quality. Cost me $650 shipped to canada. Seeing as my car had about 60,000km on it the stock rotors were on really good. Took me and my mechanic 3 hours with a 5lb sledge hammer and 2 bottles of anti-seize to get the rotors off.
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3 hrs seems about right. remember i also painted the calipers in that time, also the rear calipers have to be turned, not pressed, to get the caliper piston in. I didn't spray any antisieze, just used the supplied brake lub on the caliper bolts and back of the pads so they dont sqeak. i did spray brake cleaner on the calipers and rotors before final assembly.
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O so the rear ones have to be turned in ok what like use a c-clamp to hold the cailper shut and just simply screw them in? the fronts are pressed in? And I use a c-clamp to press the front in right. So how to get the calipers to open for both front and rear?
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i just used the old pads on the front caliper pistons and a c clamp to press them in. on the rear i took some needle nose pliers and turned them by hand, they have grooves in the piston were the pliers can grab onto. took a little longer but i didn't have to use the GM piston tool to do it. once you look at it u'll see how easy it is