K&N Intake installed pictures thread
Originally Posted by CobaltSS422
That could be because you have the DTEC-FC
Now a question I have........ Anyone with the PSI-FI Kit running a K&N Typhoon setup? And if you are... Are you getting a CEL?
Now a question I have........ Anyone with the PSI-FI Kit running a K&N Typhoon setup? And if you are... Are you getting a CEL?
It's not I am not using the DTEC-FC to alert anything. The good turboxs ppl just got it all setup and working on my car last week.
How air responds around the MAF sensor is very important to how the PCM correlates that to the volume of air entering the engine. If the velocity of air passing the sensor is higher than expected it may set a DTC and the same holds true for the other direction. The way it works is by directing air flow through a specific size opening with a heated element located in the air flow path. As the air passes by the element it takes a known load to keep the element at a given temperature. That load is then compared with expected values in the PCM and used to define the fuel needs of the motor. In the event that you disrupt the flow from an inadvertent venturi, filter restriction or improperly located MAF sensor - enough change could be present to cause a DTC.
I speculate that once someone measures the size (inside diameter) of the intake tract at the MAF and compares that to the intakes causing problems, you'll see a clue to the puzzle. Even if it's close, it's going to change the speed of the air passing over the MAF.
I know we all know how the MAF works, but I think the size of the housing where the MAF is located may be the issue here.
I speculate that once someone measures the size (inside diameter) of the intake tract at the MAF and compares that to the intakes causing problems, you'll see a clue to the puzzle. Even if it's close, it's going to change the speed of the air passing over the MAF.
I know we all know how the MAF works, but I think the size of the housing where the MAF is located may be the issue here.
Last edited by SCdyne; Oct 18, 2005 at 04:04 PM. Reason: typo
Originally Posted by SCdyne
How air responds around the MAF sensor is very important to how the PCM correlates that to the volume of air entering the engine. If the velocity of air passing the sensor is higher than expected it may set a DTC and the same holds true for the other direction. The way it works is by directing air flow through a specific size opening with a heated element located in the air flow path. As the air passes by the element it takes a known load to keep the element at a given temperature. That load is then compared with expected values in the PCM and used to define the fuel needs of the motor. In the event that you disrupt the flow from an inadvertent venturi, filter restriction or improperly located MAF sensor - enough change could be present to cause a DTC.
I speculate that once someone measures the size (inside diameter) of the intake tract at the MAF and compares that to the intakes causing problems, you'll see a clue to the puzzle. Even if it's close, it's going to change the speed of the air passing over the MAF.
I know we all know how the MAF works, but I think the size of the housing where the MAF is located may be the issue here.
I speculate that once someone measures the size (inside diameter) of the intake tract at the MAF and compares that to the intakes causing problems, you'll see a clue to the puzzle. Even if it's close, it's going to change the speed of the air passing over the MAF.
I know we all know how the MAF works, but I think the size of the housing where the MAF is located may be the issue here.
I installed the K&N. Got the memory code, that went away, now I have another one! Argh! I am only assuming the first was the memory code because it came on as soon as I started the car, and it went off after 3 engine cycles.
I've come to the conclusion GM did this on purpose... making our cars very picky to mods.. The way I see it since GM plans on putting out these "Staged Upgrades" obviously they are going to involve some kind of ECU reprogramming (i'm assuming) So the point i'm trying to get at is that GM is not stupid and obviously figured people are going to mod this car. First thing we all do is what.... intake... it's the easiest mod that we could do ourselves but our A/F is all screwed up because of the intake causing the "Lean" code and CEL. So with the "Staged Upgrades" and probably the reprogramming of the ECU there are going to be A LOT of people buying them. Not just because of the warranty along with the performance but it would eliminate the "Lean" code that we are getting from our modded airbox's and our CAI by having new parameters for the A/F mix. Now i'm not saying people are going to purchase the "Staged Upgrades" just for the reason of fixing the "Lean" code but it helps. Just my .02 cents.
Yah i installed the intake last night and this morning on my way to work the CEL came on....it gets really annoying but i kno that is why it came on so im not worried about it..ill wait for the ECU reprogram and fix it then...on a good note though the SC is absolutley amazing, its so f-ing loud its not even funny..i love it
LSX RWD S/C conversion
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I have booked an appointment with my local dealer to install my K&N tomorrow and I am interested to see if they get that annoying CEL after they are done. I will post tomorrow night with the results.
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Got my car back from the dealership and so far no CEL's at all. The service dept. said that if it did throw a code they would read it for me, no charge.
On another note, I really love hearing the supercharger whine
On another note, I really love hearing the supercharger whine
Rockin on the intake for over a week and never have gotten a CEL light yet.
I consider myself the lucky few. the only thing I didn't do that I believe others did was disconnect the negative battery cable. I never touched it my entire installation. It was left on. I thought of it as a waste of time to disconnect it.
Everything is running flawlessly.
I consider myself the lucky few. the only thing I didn't do that I believe others did was disconnect the negative battery cable. I never touched it my entire installation. It was left on. I thought of it as a waste of time to disconnect it.Everything is running flawlessly.
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Originally Posted by dervin3
For the people who got CEL's several days after installation, about how many miles did it take to come on and what was the code?
I am taking it in tomorrow to get the service guys to run the code.
Originally Posted by Leafy
What's the recommendations on using this throughout winter and rainy weather? Someone mentioned you would need a water bypass valve, anyone want to detail that?
Anyone?
Originally Posted by Leafy
"Ahem"
Anyone?
Anyone?
Unless your driving through deep puddles constantly you should be fine.. that's what the splash guard is there for.. but if you are worried about it you can go to the www.*************** store and i believe they have an AEM Bypass which prevents hydrolocking
Originally Posted by victory_red_SS
Mine came on tonight after about 95kms(55 miles)
I am taking it in tomorrow to get the service guys to run the code.
I am taking it in tomorrow to get the service guys to run the code.
I guess by having the dealer putting it on makes all the other guys feel better now because it tells them that they probably didn't do anything wrong. I'm suprised the dealer even did something like that for you.. normally dealerships don't do stuff like that.. i called the dealer once to see if they could put on the cross-drilled rotors i had bought and they said they couldn't.. as far as the code it's MOST DEFINATELY the INFAMOUS
Originally Posted by victory_red_SS
Mine came on tonight after about 95kms(55 miles)
I am taking it in tomorrow to get the service guys to run the code.
I am taking it in tomorrow to get the service guys to run the code.
Originally Posted by victory_red_SS
Mine came on tonight after about 95kms(55 miles)
I am taking it in tomorrow to get the service guys to run the code.
I am taking it in tomorrow to get the service guys to run the code.
All the dealer probably will do is clear the code and it will come back on. There is no fix for it unless we reprogram the computer and replace these small A/F parameters
Not a picture, but here's a video of me driving right after installing the K&N. I shifted short in first cause at the last stoplight I barely gave it half throttle and she started spinning and wheel hopping like mad in first.
https://www.cobaltss.net/gallery/sho...=3&userid=2828
Sounds so beautiful.
Oldbenwa
https://www.cobaltss.net/gallery/sho...=3&userid=2828
Sounds so beautiful.
Oldbenwa
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Originally Posted by CobaltSS422
All the dealer probably will do is clear the code and it will come back on. There is no fix for it unless we reprogram the computer and replace these small A/F parameters
don't buy any 'chips', they are all garbage. it looks as though we all just have to wait until the reprogram comes out. I'm seriously thinking of returning mine, and getting the mangaflow exhaust or something. The people at K&n are a bunch of monkeys. How could they not see this problem?
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Is anyone with the psi pulley\piggy back kit have a K&N on their car?
If so are you getting a code. If not I will order my kit next week.
How about it Ray from rev-it-up?
If so are you getting a code. If not I will order my kit next week.
How about it Ray from rev-it-up?
I wish I had some pics but my digital is ruined (Long story, LOL). I recieved my intake yesterday and threw a CEL after 51.4 miles, went to pepboys and bought a OBD-II scanner and erased the two codes both were "Running lean (Bank 1)"!!!! Oh, well I guess we will see!
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